Paperwork and Controls:

Cruisers in Phuket are monitored. Make sure your AIS is switched on and remember that if you move to another Province you have to do a domestic clearance out and in. Typical fines for not doing the proper clearances are Bht 10,000, sometimes strictly enforced but often ignored.

Doing your own clearance can be a bit of a pain. Here are the four agents you can use to do it for you – they can do it online, cruisers must physically attend Port Control at each end.

• Asia Pacific Superyachts – jojo@asia-pacific-superyachts.com
• Porntip Logistics – porntip@porntip-logistics.com
• Asia Yacht Agency – worawan@asiayachtagency.com
• Seal – thailand@seal-superyachts.com

National Park Anchoring Fees:

Many parts of Phang Nga Bay are national parks and anchoring fees can be charged whether you use a park mooring or not. Expect to pay Bht 400 for four days, but charges vary from one park to another as do attitudes. At Monkey Bay on Phi Phi I was told I was not allowed to anchor and had to take a mooring which I did. When I went back, I took a mooring again but no park ranger turned up. Other boats anchored all around me. At Ko Roi the rangers did a 14 NM round trip to collect my anchoring fee! So the message is expect the unexpected and don’t expect consistency.

A feature of Phang Ngna Bay is the magnificent limestone scenery and the Hongs (hollow islands accessed normally by a cave). Unfortunately these sights fall into three different Provinces, but in practice you only need clearances between Phuket and Krabi. Phuket Port Control need six hours notice of your arrival.

Phuket Anchorages – West Side:

Navionics is pretty accurate and if the depths are OK for you picking a spot is easy. There are no national park fees on the W side. Even in the NE season you can still get a westerly swell which comes and goes and varies according to the height of the tide. Just keep an eye on the beach to avoid exciting dinghy landings.

Nai Harn – A favourite anchorage. In the NE season the main bar provides a dinghy dock but collects BHT 100 a day to use it. They charge BHT 100 for a beer. Across the road opposite Rock Salt Restaurant (expensive) is Cheap Charlies charging BHT 45 for a beer.

If you venture north to Ranong Province (typically Ko Phyam or Ko Chang) make sure you do your domestic clearances as this sometimes is enforced by the navy. 

Thap Lamu – On your way there anchoring in the naval base at Thap Lamu is easy and there is lots ashore. Although this is Phang Nga Province there has been no evidence of domestic clearances being enforced.

Ko Phra Thong – Going north from there you will find a small resort on the south shore of Ko Phra Thong. Anchoring is easy but watch your depths coming in through the channel. As things are quiet call ahead on 089 867 3976 so they will put beer in the fridge for you.

Surin and Similan Islands – Here are the published requirements for entry: “Crew and passenger list, boat certificate and ‘photo of the boat, vaccination records, ATK results 72 hours before arriving, diving certificate if diving, not allowed to anchor and must dinghy to dive site, 500 Bht per person per night and 100 Bht per night for the boat”. Now here is the reality of a 54 foot boat in early February: brought nothing, stayed 2 night Similans, one night Surins, no other boats there, never saw a park ranger.

Phuket Anchorages – East Side:

Panwa – The first part opposite the pearl
farm can be very rolly. Around the corner off the long sand beach is
better but swell comes and goes for no apparent reason. Anchor anywhere.
‘At the Beach’ is an informal bar with good simple food and great
prices.

Ko Rang Yai – Good holding and shelter in either season. A good spot to wait for tide if you are going to Phuket Boat Lagoon.

Ko Nakha Yai – Good holding and shelter. Big resort ashore. At the time of writing the anchorage on the W side of Nakha Noi was a quarantine anchorage and so best avoided.

Immediately North of Ao Po – Good in the SW season but not NE. The marina very kindly allow you to use their dinghy dock without charge.

Outside Yacht Haven Marina – much of the anchoring space has been taken over by moorings (Bht 1,000 a week) and several reports of mooring dragging – contact davefourie@gmail.com to make a booking. So if anchoring you have to go north, making sure you do not anchor in the superyacht channel which is clear on Navionics. A long dinghy ride in to shore – 0.6 NM approx. There is a lego pontoon near the Living Room restaurant which you can use for free. If you go into the marina they will charge you Bht 1,100 a week to use the dinghy dock, but you also get use of their palatial showers and loos. Several good eateries outside the marina, otherwise not much here.

Phuket Marinas:

Boat Lagoon – Best place for services, chandleries, big supermarket, bars and restaurants. Swimming pool and gym. Loads of choice, not cheap.

Royal Phuket – Might be a little cheaper than Boat Lagoon. Only one bar – restaurant. Workers will have to travel.

Ao Po Grand Marina – Accessible at all states of the tide. Easy access. Palatial showers and nice pool. Some eateries. Scissor lift haul out with some contractors, but not many. Need hire car to get supplies.

Yacht Haven – Only approach at slack water, marina will advise when. Nice deck restaurant / bar. Good local eateries nearby. No services. Hire car to get supplies.

Phuket Haul-Outs:

Premier – Close to Yacht Haven. Scissor lift haul out. 2 metre draft to 20 tons. Not as cheap as it should be, dusty if any wind at all.

Ao Po – As above, scissor lift haul out etc.

GT – just south of Ao Po. Haul out by tractor pulling a trailer up the beach so probably only suitable for cats. Almost no services.

Boat Lagoon – Up to 120 tons! Everything you need and more – but at a price.

Royal Phuket – Much like Boat Lagoon.

Alternative Haul-Out Options:

Jump across to Krabi which is about 35 NM from Phuket on the mainland.

Boat Lagoon Krabi – About 2/3rds the price of Boat Lagoon Phuket. Some services, good condos if hauling out. Max 35 tons. It is in the middle of nowhere, 21 kilometers to Tesco.

Port Takola Marina – Scissor lift, all basic services.

PSS Satun – Out of the way but lots of skills there especially Popeye Marine. If not using Popeye you will have to supervise workers at all times. Basic yard, trailer haulout up to 100 tons.

Anthony Swanston
SV Wild Fox

• Noonsite’s Phuket Port and Services Information
  
• Noonsite’s Krabi Port and Services Information
  

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About the Author:

A self-described single handed, long distance live-aboard cruiser,  Anthony slipped the lines in Ireland in 2009 and headed to the Azores with a loose plan to circumnavigate by a traditional trade wind route. After crossing the Atlantic and Pacific, his plans to cross the Indian Ocean are on hold as he cruises in and around Thailand and Malaysia.

http://blog.mailasail.com/wildfox

More Reports from Anthony:

• Thailand:  How to Apply for the Tourist Special Visa
  
• Thailand: Check-in Procedures & Leaving your boat if you travel out of the country by plane
  
• Andaman Islands, Port Blair:  Guidelines for Entry and Travel
  
• Portrait of a Cruiser:  Long-term Single-Hander Anthony Swanston
  

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.