In this report, well known South African weather router Des Cason provides updates to Delwyn McPhun’s East African Pilot.

I highly recommend Delwyn McPhunes’s East African Pilot which is invaluable and is pretty accurate as far as anchorages etc are concerned. My notes must be seen as elaborating and updating the info he provides. Some of the anchorages may differ where we have found his information to be slightly out.

Tanzania is less well known as a tourism destination, but with Mt Kilimanjaro and world-class game viewing to rival their neighbors it is one of the best kept secrets.
 With a very docile and easy coast line (unlike Kenya), it is a must see on any cruisers’ calendar.

The logical place to embark on a safari adventure is Tanga, which is sheltered and safe and a short bus trip to Arusha, where it all starts. Highly recommended.
 Tanzania has a lot to offer over and above the game parks. Zanzibar and the Mafia channel south of Dar es Salaam are “must see” items.

Exchange rate as of June 2023: 1USD = 2400 TSH

COVID


Much like Sweden, Tanzania did not go overboard during the Pandemic and as a consequence had an influx of yachties during lock down. Not a single complaint that I am aware of. They are still pretty relaxed and laid back in the aftermath.

General


Tanzania, as a democratic state, has reached a pretty stable point in its history. This despite crime, which is pretty endemic the world over. The prudent traveler knows how to deal with this and takes the necessary precautions. This area is no less dangerous than most others..

Politically Tanzania has matured in their democracy. During 12 months in Tanzania we never experienced any overt corruption and demands for money for dubious documentation/visas etc. and in fact the authorities prominently display a poster warning you not to tolerate any requests for unwarranted cash.

The poster has a toll-free number to call in the event of this happening. We found the officials courteous and reliable, although everything runs on Africa-time, so one has to be patient when officials decide to go to lunch or tea.
 When one expects a typical 3rd-world attitude, it is quite refreshing to be surprised by the friendly and pleasant welcome one receives wherever you go. Our 12 months in Tanzania has made us positive ambassadors for this country and once you get used to the Africa way of doing things, a visit is highly recommended.

Weather


The weather is divided into two seasons, each with their own peculiarities.

SE Monsoon
 – April to end October

This period is dominated by the SE trade winds and blows consistently in the 10-15kt range during the day, but dies down at sunset. A rain shower of 30 min duration at 1600 hrs is pretty normal and makes for pleasant showers on the foredeck.

NE Monsoon
 – November to end March

This period is dominated by the “Kaskazi” NE trade wind which makes most anchorages untenable and alternatives have to be found. Unlike the SE it does not slack off much overnight and is pretty consistent at 15-25kts. In addition, it very seldom brings rain.

Current


A west -flowing current coming all the way from Australia clips the top of Madagascar and continues westward where it encounters the African coast line at Cabo Delgado /Mtwara – the border between Tanzania and Mozambique.

There it splits and the north-flowing section hugs the coast all the way along the Tanzanian and Kenyan coastline and runs at 1.5-3 kts. This results in all the safe anchorages off the islands being on the NW/NE sides, making anchorage difficult and at times impossible during the NE monsoon (Nov –March). Even anchorages at Dar es Salaam and Tanga become bumpy due to swell coming in around the headlands.

Tropical Cyclones/Storms

Tanzania is outside the normal belt and the Mozambique Channel is also exempt from this danger up to the middle of December. The danger of cyclones in the Mozambique Channel this time of year does not result from cyclones coming west from Chagos, but is as a result of low pressure systems developing around Mayotte and intensifying as they move south down the channel, This however very seldom occurs before mid December /January through to March.

Cruising Season


In theory this is all year round, but prime-time is April to the end of September. During the NE trades, it is still pretty good, but whichever way you are going you either have the current with you and the wind against you, or the current against you and the wind with you.

Sailing north in April from Mtwara (on the southern border and a good place to start), you have current with you and the wind behind – you which is as good as it gets. The most we experienced was 17 kts in a small squall!

All the anchorages are good holding and well protected from the SE.
 If  you are sailing south, then  the best time would be from the end of November to March with the NE behind you but with current against. With the consistent NE wind, anchorages become a problem and you have to plan your hops carefully to get to the next stopover.

Timing


In a perfect world one would arrive in Mtwara mid April and cruise up to Dar es Salaam and Tanga, detouring via Zanzibar and Pemba en-route either way. Visits to the game parks are best done from Tanga as Arusha, the centre for game viewing, is closer and a short bus trip away. Tanga is also a lot safer to leave your yacht with a local security guard. Having done all the tourist things, you should look to heading south by the end of October at the latest and get the benefit of the NE trade setting in to get down to Mtwara to head south down the coast to South Africa.

Extended stays


If you plan on an extended stay of more than five to six months, the conundrum of safety during the Kaskazi (NE trade) is the major issue.

Many cruisers have headed north to Kenya and particularly Kalifi Creek for this period, but still one has to plan to get back south before the Kaskazi dies down. Failing this, you face a SE wind with 2-3 kts of current against you to get back south. Some yachties have left their yachts in Kalifi for a trip home and for this purpose it is pretty safe as security can be arranged at the yacht club for the duration.

It still implies you getting back in time to catch the tail end of the Kaskazi to get south when you return.
 Coming from the east (Thailand/Malaysia) poses the conundrum of getting to Tanzania with enough time to do the things you want to.

Most yachties only arrive in Madagascar during June and July, making things a bit tight, but it’s been done . This would entail a direct route via Mayotte (not to be missed) to Dar es Salem and up to Tanga for the game parks, with enough time to get south by the end of October/November.

Another alternative is to cut out Madagascar and head direct to Tanzania from Chagos/Seychelles/Maldives/Sri Lanka arriving June/July and heading south into the Mozambique Channel at the end of October/November. This alternative cuts out Madagascar – which is a pity as it regularly features in the top three destinations by many circumnavigators.

Provisions


Tanga is the centre for most of the fresh produce for the country, the quality is excellent and the prices less than half you would expect. Further south the quality starts suffering due to transport, but is still way above expectation. Fuel/gas etc. is freely available and it is possible to find limited spares in the rural areas, but anything you want is in Dar es Salaam. Alcohol and tobacco are cheap except for imports and the fresh produce markets are a feast.

Game viewing

Resist the temptation to book your viewing in the bigger centers of Dar es Salaam and Tang, as sharp operators will rip you off despite their 
assurances. Past experience has shown the best way is to travel to Arusha by bus and book/arrange with operators on site, as this cuts out all the middlemen. Accommodation in Arusha should be arranged well in advance.

Formalities


These are pretty standard and not a problem. Immigration and Customs as you would expect. The last information I heard was a three-month visa costs $50 per person and there are no customs charges. A peculiarity is the Customs CM23 form (Transire) which has to be obtained for movements between ports and is 
meticulously checked. This amounts to permission to move. This is only required for movement between Entry Ports, so if you are going from say Dar es Salaam to Tanga and stopping en route, you declare your next destination as Tanga.

Note:  Tanzania is the product of the amalgamation of Tanganyika, Zanzibar and Pemba Islands. As Zanzibar and Pemba were not too happy with this loss of autonomy they still see themselves as independent and any travel from the mainland to these two islands entails full immigration and customs clearance on arrival.

As long as you have a valid visa and your Transire, then you shouldn’t have any problems – it’s just a hassle and a waste of time. As a rule, visas can be extended by one month on request, but best to check with immigration on latest ruling.

If you need to check out and into another country to get a further three months, get to Tanga in plenty of time, run up to Shimoni in Kenya for a couple of days and return for a further three months in Tanzania.

Alternatively take a bus from Tanga to the Kenyan border post, clear out and clear right back in and hop on the next bus back to Tanga.

Entry Ports


Mtwara, Lindi, Kilindoni (MafiaIsland) Dar es Salaam, Pangani, Tanga, Zanzibar Moan, (Pemba Island).

Charts


Apart from Dar es Salaam, Tanga and Zanzibar, all charts must be viewed with skepticism and cross-checked with Google Earth for accuracy. Most anchorages, entries and channels quoted have been checked in situ, but the prudent sailor will still rely on visual navigation.

Night sailing


In the Mafia channel from Kilwa Masoko north, this is suicide due to shallows, reefs and sand bars and be warned that you attempt this at your peril. North of Dar es Salaam and including Zanzibar and the coast all the way to Shimoni, the same applies in addition to hundreds of fishing vessels setting nets at night which as usual are not buoyed and if they are, they are not lit. Unfortunately dynamite fishing is still rife, so don’t be too surprised about the loud “Booms” at night.

Anchorages (From the southern border)

Mtwara:  10 12,9976S 40 11,2691E


Narrow and convoluted entry – daylight only as buoys are either non existent or not lit. Not recommended for prolonged stays – better to relocate to Mikindani.

• NE wind anchorage 10 15,459S 40 11,940E
• E
SE wind anchorage 10 15,212S 40 13,615E

Mikindani:  10 14,7773S 40 08,3130E


From the waypoint above, above head 216T – visual navigation is vital and in daylight only!

• NE anchorage 10 15,414S 40 07,248E
• SE anchorage 10 16,258S 40 08,000E

This anchorage is also good in NE and more convenient for getting into Mtwara. From the entrance stay close to the port shoreline and follow the channel over one shallow patch +-3m on LAT so high tide is the best time. Leave your dinghy at the “Yacht club?” and pick up a taxi on main road. Very well protected and flat calm.

Sudi River:  10 06,540S 39 59,603E


Beware the Nymphe Shoal at entrance 10 06,604S 39 59,603E and a shallow sand bar/patch at the village on the port side of the entrance. Visual navigation again is vital here.

• Anchorage NE/SE 10 09,012S 39 58,312E

Nothing to recommend except as an overnight anchorage if you can’t make Mtwara before dark on your way south.

Lindi:  9 58,055S 39 44,919E

Not recommended except in an emergency and even then it is best to try and find another alternative. Crime is a serious problem and the entrance is very tidal. In addition buoys are all wrong with no pattern as far as port and starboard are concerned. Daylight entry only and don’t trust anything.

Mchinga Bay


Surprisingly and counter intuitively very good in both NE and SE winds.

• Anchorage 9 44,437S 39 43,843E

Mzungu Bay


Very well protected from SE by reef extending from main land in NE direction. Tuck in behind it.

• Anchorage SE only 9 29,096S 39 40,428E

Kilwa Masoko


Great spot but in 2018 the Kilwa Ruins Lodge burnt down and since then crime has escalated. Three yachts since then have had their dinghies and soutboard engines stolen.
 Some ruins on the south bank purported to date back to the Chinese visits to Africa pre colonization days. Excellent fishing off Rukyira Reef.

• Anchorage NE only 8 55,845S 39 31,235E

Fanjove Island:  
8 34S 39 34E

Beautiful island but the most recent visitors were told they could not anchor and if they insisted they would be charged $50 per person to sit on the beach. NB Going north from here you are entering what is known as the Mafia Channel with reefs/sand bars and islands all over the place so navigate cautiously and in daylight. Fishing en route is mind blowing so be prepared!

Tsonga

Approaching looks like paradise but sadly the area has been destroyed by the population supporting Gas Platforms on the western side. Secure anchorage in both NE and SE wind. A pleasant stop over.

• NE anchorage 8 30,602S 39 28,696
• E
SE anchorage 8 30,492S 39 28,628E

Boydu Island

Holding is bad due to the scouring effect of the north flowing current. This is an OK stop for overnight only which is a pity as this is a jewel with very little population.

Good holding on the sand patch and very well protected from SE wind and current which screams around the western corner but misses the anchorage.
 A yachty reported in 2019 that the SE wind anchorage has no sand left due to local floodrain. Apply extreme caution and rely on visual navigation.

• 
NE wind anchorage 7 56,805S 39 30,623E
• SE wind anchorage 7 56,471S 39 30,273E

Kilindoni-Mafia Island:  7 54,9274S 39 39,4190E


Avoid at all cost as I am sure the name Mafia was inspired by the organization with that name. The anchorage is +-1nm off shore and security even during daylight is dicey as lots of prawn fishermen pass by coming from the prawn banks off the Rovuma River mouth.

The up market lodge on the SE corner of Mafia Island (Chole Bay) does not welcome yachties. Despite the area being pristine for diving and snorkeling, it is debatable whether it is worth the effort. There are plenty of other reefs to explore without the hassle.

Njororo Island


Nothing spectacular but ok for an overnight stop over. Some local fisherman live on the island and I never had any problems with them.

• NE/SE anchorage 7 37,168S 39 40,773E

Koma Island


Again not spectacular – a bit too close to mainland so a fairly large population but a good stop over going either north or south.

• NE/SE anchorage 7 32,360S 39 23,074E

Sukuti Reef


Pretty unique as on high tide you only see the mangrove trees and on low tide can just make out the sand bars. Excellent protection in SE.

• SE Anchorage only 7 15,163S 39 30,080E

Bujuni Bay


• NE anchorage 7 08,6103S 39 32,6762E

Ras Ndegi


Again, only recommended for an overnight stop.

• SE anchorage only 6 51,939S 39 28,184E

Inner Sinda Island

Beautiful island close to Dar es Salaam and as a result is very popular on weekends when locals come out for the day. Excellent cheap operates on the beach and worth a visit. Overnight stops are not a problem but being close to the mainland and local residents means that theft is a problem.

• 
SE anchorage only 6 49,654S 39 23,458E

Dar es Salaam Yacht Club:  6 44,625S 39 16,357E


Customs get upset if you go direct to the yacht club before checking into Immigration and Customs in Dar es Salaam.
 The club no longer offers two weeks free temporary membership and despite the excellent facilities the Slipway anchorage, less the 1NM south, seems to be a better option.

It would appear that Immigration and Customs will come to the yacht club to check you
 in BUT try to charge US$5o when the actual fee is 50 000TSH – beware of the rip off.
  Solution – Take a taxi into town and do the necessary using the excuse you have engine problems and cannot safely sail into the harbor. They know it’s a lie, but they’ve heard it all before so no problem.

Dar es Salaam YC is rightly rated as the top yacht club in Southern Africa and is slick and well run with a great social life due to all the Ex-Pats living here. Free WiFi. It is the social hub of Dar’s upper class.

Just watch your bar bill, as unless you check it with the admin office (always sign your chit) it has happened that some one else drinks on your account. The club has a motorized dinghy service which picks you up at your yacht and delivers you back at no charge. Call them on VHF Channel 09. The anchorage at the Slipway is free and they have a dinghy service similar to Dar YC at a cost – most recent information 100,000 TSH per month.

Weekend excursions


A number of local yachties spend the weekends anchored at one of the following islands, depending on the wind direction.

• Bongoya Island (6 41,661S 39 15,407E),
• Mbudja Island (6 39,457S 39 14,704E),
• Fungu Yasin (6 35,669S 39 13,462E,

It’s a pleasant break from the hectic club and pretty quiet.
 The locals will have a long list of things to do and see, but do not miss a visit to the fish market at the harbor entrance for a mind-blowing African fish experience – 6 49,111S 39 17,955E

Ras Mbegani(Lazy lagoon)

This is an extremely well sheltered and safe place.

• 
Entrance 6 27,821S 38 58,400E
• Northern anchorage 6 27,821S 39 00,123E
• 
Southern anchorage 6 28,394S 38 58,550E

Des Cason
Ex SV Gambit

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About the Author

Des Cason and his late wife Nell, used to run the Madagascar relay station for the Peri-Peri net. Sadly Nell passed away in 2021 and these days Des says the prospect of communicating daily with what he consider to be the only sane people left in this “clown world”  – the cruising yachties – makes it a pleasure to wake up in the morning.

Des can be contacted at;  sygambit@gmail.com

Also for Noonsite by Des:

• South Africa:  Cruising the Coast from Richards Bay to Cape Town
• Madagascar Cruising Notes
• Madagascar and Mozambique Channel
• Mozambique Security Update
• Mozambique Channel Hideways
• A Guide to Crossing the Indian Ocean
• Cyclone Patterns in SW Indian Ocean

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Sailing in the Agulhas Current – South Africa

From the OSASA Newsletter [https://www.osasa.org.za/]:

Anybody with an interest in cruising around the eastern and southern coasts of South Africa, and certainly every South African yachtie worth their salt, knows about the mighty Agulhas current. When approaching South Africa from the Indian Ocean side (as the majority of circumnavigators do), any yacht making landfall at Durban or Richards Bay must exercise extreme caution in selecting the right weather window to continue southwards and on to Cape Agulhas and the Cape of Good Hope.

The combination of lows proceeding in a north westerly direction and the south flowing current (which can run as strong as 6 knots) can lead to very rough conditions, as well as the infamous rogue waves. A northwesterly breeze can swing and develop into a south westerly gale acting against the current in only a few minutes.

Thorough route-planning and weather watching is a must, and research and local knowledge is invaluable. A starter from Oyster Yachts can be found here, while a popular local resource (if you can find a copy) is Tony Herrick’s Southern African Cruising Guide (East to West). Of course, you can also pop an email to OSASA, who can point you in the direction of some local knowledge!

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.

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