Doug Schuch

Ontong Java:

Approach & Entry

The light ships are not in positions indicated by C-maps, but there are some there. Lots of fishing boats in the region as well. I entered the atoll via the pass at S 5° 31′ 48” X E 159° 37′ 48”. The pass seemed to be a few seconds east of where shown on Google Earth. This pass was very wide (watch for two shallow-ish areas you pass between, with 75 feet in the pass, shallowing to 50 feet once inside the lagoon). There was no noticeable current, either when I entered or when I left.

Anchoring

The shallows behind the island of Luaniua are 20-30 feet deep along the outer area, but with many coral heads scattered about, including some that did not appear to have adequate depth over them. Anchoring here involves finding a nice sand patch with no shallow coral heads in the swinging area. A Bahamian moor might be wise to keep from wrapping or hitting heads. Wind stayed E-NE the 48 hours I was there.

Clearance

The whole shore of the island here has houses built along it with plenty of trees around, but the main village is at the S. end of the island, visible as a gray area that stretches across the island in the Google Earth photos.

I had developed a pretty strong case of flu a few days after leaving Vanuatu, and thus my “reason” for stopping (unfortunately, completely valid) was the need to rest and gain strength. I went to the village the first day and sought out Chief Willy, as I had been directed to do. He does not speak English, but the just-retired representative to the Malaita provincial government translated and helped. I was told that my reasons for the stop were fine, no one inquired or cared about any clearance with the Solomon Islands government, but I was informed there was a SI$500 anchoring fee imposed by Malaita, and that a yacht is supposed to have cleared in Malaita before proceeding to Ontong Java, but they really did not seem concerned. Since I did not have SI money, I was told other equivalent “gifts” would be accepted. I was told to come back the next day when the “house of chiefs” would be meeting.

The next day the secretary from the “house of chiefs” came out to the boat, asked a few questions, then told me I could come in and meet with the chiefs. I was told there are approximately 23 chiefs, but at the time, only a few were in the village as others were off harvesting their copra on the other islands.

Upon arrival, I was escorted to the house of chiefs, introduced to everyone, and offered a seat. I showed them the “gifts” I had brought: rice, dried beans, milk and juice I did not need. They seemed very pleased with this. Then the “fee” came up, but no one had any idea what the exchange rate was. I had brought a single $20 US bill, and offered that, and they accepted it and again, seemed pleased. As it turns out, this is well short of the official fee, but I got the impression that, while they wanted to collect as much as they could, having few sources of income, they also were by nature, very welcoming to visitors in the Polynesian tradition.

Security

I was warned (by the brother of Chief Willy, one of the first people to stop by) to not allow two young men aboard as they had stolen from yachts before. I also, after meeting with the chiefs, noticed that there was a canoe tied up to my boat. I quickly went out there, and found two guys on the boat waiting for me. I quickly checked to make sure that they had not tried to break in, and was very curt with them, explaining that it is considered very rude to ever go onto a yacht without permission. I refused the coconuts they offered…I was rather upset!

The Locals

I had a number of canoes visit the boat, and most wanted to trade coconuts for other stuff. I traded a little, but really have no use for dozens of drinking coconuts… So, this is not a good place to trade for veggies, etc, and I saw no indications of traditional crafts to trade for either.

Everyone was very polite, even the two who went aboard without permission. No one seemed pushy or aggressive, and everywhere I wandered in my short time on the island, people seemed pleased to see me and eager to practice their English and chat a little.

I was definitely the only boat to visit Ontong Java this year. I heard figures from 1 to 4 years as to when the last boat was there. Clearly, few boats venture here.

Conclusion

Basically, I would say Ontong Java merits much further exploration should someone desire to visit someplace off the beaten path. People were very friendly and welcoming, in traditional Polynesian style. I was told there was a lot of coral in the center of the lagoon: thus, there could be some excellent snorkeling. Around the anchorage by the village, it was not so good. Mostly, it is nice to know that there are still islands in the Pacific that are not over-run with yachts, Aussie tourists, or other signs of development. However, to visit this and the other nearby atolls properly (with governmental clearances) would involve some rather tedious sailing between the area and the nearest ports. This is no doubt one reason so few boats come this way, and would probably suggest an extended exploration would make the most sense.

Good luck!