Scotland: Harbours and Anchorages Updates for the Hebrides and Orkney Isles

In 2023, experienced sailing instructor and expedition leader John Neal took four expeditions through the Scottish Isles including the Outer Hebrides and Orkney Islands.  In this report for Noonsite, he provides updates and information on some of the remote and beautiful harbours and anchorages he visited in the western isles.

Published 6 months ago

The Imray Yachtsman’s Pilots and Charts are frequently updated and are invaluable for these areas:

  • The Western Isles
  • Skye and NW Scotland
  • Isle of Mull and Adjacent Coasts
  • Orkney and Shetland
Berthing in Stronsay. Photo from visitstronsay.com website.

Outer Hebrides

Isle of Lewis

Stornoway

All visitors must call on VHF Channel 12 before entering the harbour. Report at the red can buoy off the lighthouse. Fuel at end of fishing wharf. Toby is a chatty and helpful older fuel attendant. Pontoon access: 1234#, Showers access: 1297#. Takes 1 pound coins. Giant Co-op just past petrol station on way out of town to the west is by far the best shopping option. Exchange gas bottles at petrol station just before the Co-op.

Loch Grimsader

Closest anchorage south of Stornoway. Go to the back of bay. Good shelter and not too deep.

Loch Leurbost

Next anchorage south of Grimshader. Anchor off the village where the moorings are, or better, continue on toward the back of the bay, anchoring between the cove and the islet in center.

Harris

Tarbert

Isle of Harris Marina at Tarbert. Photo from Isle of Harris Marina Facebook page.

Carolanne is the Harbour Master and is super helpful: Email:  info@isleofharrismarina.co.uk, or contact by Mob:  01859 540 2216. She lives at Luskentyre Beach, Leverburgh.

South Harris

Loch Finsbay

Go to the end of the furthest in “T” bay and go to port (west). Excellent holding and sufficient swinging room. Two galleries ashore, but no pier or float to land on.

Barra

Castlebay

Sarah is the Harbour Master: Email:  info@castlebaymarina.com, or contact by Ph: 01871 810 925. The Community Shop has great local foods and books. The Sports Center is open from 4pm – 7pm, for swimming, sauna and showers.  Craigard Hotel has a great dinner and there is a excellent Co-Op grocery store.

Monach Isles

South Harbour

Good holding in sandy bottom. Can be rolly.

Mainland Scotland

North of Ullapool

Lochinver

Easy night time approach, lots of moorage. Friendly Harbour Master, Joseph is a young guy who works on the Lifeboat and Linda is an older woman in the harbour office.  Toilets and showers are free and the Harbour Master can be found on the top floor of the long fish unloading building.

The Leisure Center next to the boatyard has showers, free internet and loos. Showers also down the hall from harbour office, second floor. Fair sized SPAR grocery , great cafes for crew lunch ashore. Delilah’s restaurant in town is excellent. Nice nature walk above town and past the stone bridge.

Kinlochbervie

Shower and loos at the far end of fish warehouse, always open, by the forklifts.  Water and power on dock, small SPAR shop, great walks. Harbour Master Gary is super helpful – he used to captain large fishing boats.

Kyle of Tongue, Skullomie

Good anchorage off a small harbour and village. The entrance into the harbour anchorage needs calm conditions.

Tobermory

Tobermory Harbour. Photo from Toberymory Harbour website.

Joe (with beard) is the Harbour Master/fuel attendant and has a wealth of local information. This is one of the most iconic and popular harbours in northern Scotland and surprisingly, they accept reservations. Several great restaurants, fishmonger, bakery, pubs and occasionally live music.  Contact Annette Stirling:  email:  harbour@tobermoryharbour.co.uk

Lochaline Harbour

Contact Heath Gairns: info@lochalineharbour.co.uk, or visit their website: www.lochalineharbour.co.uk.  Excellent huge commercial washer and dryer, showers. There is always room on the dock.

Orkney Islands

Kirkwall

Lisa from Orkney Harbours is responsible for marina. John Orr who works for Lisa, loves history and is a sailor.  He can be contacted by email at: John@skalivoe.co.uk.

Lots of room but beware of shoals if going inside the outer pier. Showers and loos in the Portacabin at the head of gangway and there is a Laundrama on the back street. Water and power available on the dock. Indian Gardens is very good restaurant near the Post Office. Take suitcases and backpack to Tesco as it’s a bit of a hike. There is a swimming pool across ponds from Tesco. Judith Glue’s The Storehouse restaurant/rooms are superb but bookings are essential as it is a very popular place.

Westray Island

Pierowall

Westray Harbour at Pierowall. Photo from Orkney Marinas website.

Jacob is the Harbour Master.  He is getting married this summer so may not be 100% available.  Contact him by Mob:07775252924. Showers are free in ferry building. It is a two mile hike to Steen Art Gallery – just before the airport, turn right instead of left toward town. The second shop in town is better than the first. Hume Sweet Hume is a famous knitwear fashion shop that also has a shop in Kirkwall.

Pierowall Hotel is very popular for dinner – excellent food and friendly atmosphere but you will need to make a reservation.

Shapinsay Island

Veantrow Bay

Great holding on a mostly sand bottom.

Balfour & Elwick Bay

Tie to the wharf across from the ferry dock in Balfour. Toilets in the waiting room.  The shop is owned by Neil Sinclair and has been in his family for more than 200 years. He has Blue, a French sheepdog and a Westerly Centaur. Neil is super friendly and is the Harbour Master. It is ok to stay on the pier overnight, but there are two moorings are nearby in Elwick Bay.

Stronsay Island

Whitehall

Tie up to wharf (tidal) just to port of the ferry slip. Lesley is the Harbour Master and ferry dock attendant: Contact: MOB 07901984328. He says it’s ok to tie up to the steel end of wharf where it’s deeper. Should be 2m at 0’ on the east side of wharf where there are ladders, deeper on the steel casing outer pier.

There are three visitors mooring buoys and Jack’s Hole is an excellent anchorage off the dredged channel. There is a small shop and sometimes the hotel is open for dinner. The Heritage Centre is just where road curves left on way out of town, next to the auto repair shop.

Lee who lives just past the hotel is an ex-Royal Marine and a super nice guy. He introduced me to David Askew, email:  david_askew11@btinternet.com, Ph:  07862383625 – a puffin expert who volunteered to take us to photograph puffins at sunset when they returned from fishing. The town has free rental of bikes, kayaks and wetsuits.

Aerial view of Stronsay from www.orkney.com website.

Rousay

Trumland

It is possible to tie to the west side of the west pier, good depth alongside and the east wind keeps yacht away from pier. Good bollards and ladder. Showers and loos in the ferry waiting building. The Restaurant which is two miles away will pick you up from the pier and also does island tours. Visitor mooring off the pier. The Ferry captain owns a Westerly 36 and can be contacted by Email: CallumFlaws36@gmail.com, or Ph: 07867764752. Super nice and knowledgeable.

Egilsay Island

Skaill Pier

Anchor just south of the of pier on the edge of a shelf, out of the way of ferry traffic. It is possible to tie to pier.

John Neal
Mahina Expeditions
www.mahina.com
Email:  
sailing@mahina.com
Phone: +1-360-378-7344

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About the Author

John Neal was born on the banks of Africa’s Blue Nile River and his ocean sailing experience started in 1974 when at age 22 he set sail from Seattle, in his Vega 27 sloop clocking up 15,000 miles through the South Pacific, part of the time singlehanded. The book he wrote chronicling those adventures – Log of the Mahina – became a bestseller and John has since authored, co-authored or contributed to an additional 17 books and over 150 magazine articles.

From 1990 to 1996 John owned and operated Mahina Tiare II, a Hallberg-Rassy 42, as a sail-training vessel sailing 70,000 miles while leading expeditions to the South Pacific, Patagonia, Antarctica and rounding Cape Horn six times.

John has amassed 402,000 offshore miles from Australia to Africa, Antarctica, Svalbard and the Mediterranean while sharing his passion for ocean sailing. When not at sea John enjoys kayaking, flying, trail running, cycling, skiing, swimming and yoga. He currently holdsUSCG 100-ton master and FAA private pilot licenses.

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising.

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