SY Mandarina cruised Sarawak during July and August 2010

ANCHORAGES

Pulau Lakei Island

We left Santubong (small, quiet village at the entrance to the Santubong River) and headed for the small island of Pulau Lake. There is a small anchorage between the island and the mainland. Unfortunately, it had 6 yachts already in it, which to our view was about 4 too many!

We anchored SW of the island which gave reasonable shelter, but we had to move when the wind backed to the NW. The swell soon picked up, and we moved round to the entrance of Sungai Sarawak, into the lee of Pulau Mandi.

Sungai Sarawak

We had a better shelter here but decided to move further inshore the following morning as the swell crept around the headland of Tanjung Po and made it “bumpy”.

We anchored off a small beach, in about 5 metres of water at low tide. We had a bit of a shock, as, when we swung on the anchor, we seemed to be right over a reef! We quickly moved out into deeper water and took the dingy to investigate. The “reef” turned out to be the outflow of a river, with dark brown water, entering the bay! The run-off from rivers here tend to be brown, but murky as well, this run-off was crystal clear.

Sungai Rajang River

Our next anchorage was at the entrance to the Sungai Rajang. The channel is used by large shipping and is well buoyed. The river is navigable for some 80 odd nautical miles but is used by large craft, tugs towing barges and tugs towing rafts of felled trees. We didn’t fancy tangling with them! The anchorage was exposed to all points North, but the surrounding sand and mud banks gave good protection.

The Admiralty Pilot states that the coastline in “Featureless” and this is very true. The mud and sandbanks, that dry at low water, mean that you are sometimes a much as 10 miles offshore.

Tanjung Sirik

A good example was our next anchorage, the east side of Tanjung Sirik. We actually anchored in 5 metres of water, 7 miles offshore! We were in the lee of Tanjung Sirik and it’s associated reefs, so again had reasonable protection.

Kampong of Balingian

The following anchorage was similar, just off the Kampong of Balingian. Here we were 2 miles offshore, inside the bar that “protects” the Kampong. We had quite a windy night, but the bar reduced the swell.

HARBOURS

Bintulu

After numerous off-shore anchorages, the harbour at Bintulu was a pleasant change.

Bintulu is a major port of Sarawak. It is geared up for Liquefied Natural Gas tankers, oil tankers and large cargo vessels. This sounds horrendous, but there is a second harbour to the south of the main one which is well protected and only has one loading jetty situated in it.

We called Bintulu Port Control when we were 5 nm from the fairway buoy, to request permission to enter the harbour. We had a prompt response and were told to proceed down the North channel, where we would be met by the Security Launch.

There are two dredged channels (N channel & S channel). Both are very well buoyed, and all the marks are lit.

We met up with the Security Launch, who piloted us into the Southern harbour. The track was down the North channel then across a “junction” into the Southern harbour. They showed us where to drop anchor, all formalities were completed on the yacht by very pleasant officials. We had to use the Northern Channel as a large, loaded, tanker was leaving the Southern Harbour at the time of our approach.

The security guys visited the harbour on a regular basis and always asked if we were alright, and did we need anything.

When we came to leave, I contacted Port Control to request permission, which was immediately granted, with instructions to leave the port by the Southern Channel. We had no escort for our exit.

The designated anchorages outside the port had large numbers of ships waiting for permission to enter but were far enough offshore not to cause problems.

For us, a good place to stop, not in particularly salubrious surroundings but still a well sheltered secure berth. (Unfortunately, we later heard, that a yacht had been “relieved” of an outboard motor while at anchor in the Southern harbour. Theft can be a problem here in Sarawak, but a padlock on all valuable, removable, equipment deters the thieves).

Miri Marina

Approach

The Marina is situated south of the main port of Miri. The approximate GPS coordinates of the entrance are 04° 23.00′ N, 113° 58.13′ E (WGS 84).

There is a bar protecting the coastline with a least reported depth of 1.5 metres at low water. Entrance is possible for a keel yacht from half tide and higher. We entered at half tide and saw a minimum depth under the keel of 0.7 metres, (we draw 2.0 metres). Crossing the bar in anything other than smooth conditions would limit the timing to high tide only, as there is a permanent swell in the approaches.

The entrance is easily identified by the huge statue of a Sea Horse (the emblem of Miri) on the port hand side, with a large Chinese Sea Food restaurant close by. There is a low, rocky, breakwater on the starboard side. We had been told to favour the starboard side of the entrance channel and to keep as far away as possible from the Sea Horse statue. The Marina entrance channel was being dredged when we entered and we saw a minimum depth of water under the keel of 1.7 metres.

The Sea Horse statue is lit, unlike the Marina entrance, but a night entrance would be very risky and is not recommended.

Marina and Facilities

We berthed alongside one of the floating finger pontoons. The fingers of some of the pontoons have piles at their outer extremities, and these, in my opinion, are the better option for heavier yachts. The cleats are sufficient in number and generous in size. There is no marina staff, so berthing is DIY, or with the help of other berth holders. The marina lagoon is very well protected and well sheltered.

There are pylons for water and electricity at or near each pontoon. The electrical connection for our berth was a 63 amp three pin, two-phase and earth connector, or the third size up from the normal marine plugs! (16 amp is the small one, 32 amp the medium one, 63 amp the large one). Not many people carry this size plug, the Marina does not carry them in stock, but they are available in town.

Water and electricity are not metered so a flat fee of 2 Ringgit a day is charged for both. Marina charges are 1 Ringgit per foot, length overall, per day.

There is a small “Portacabin” type shower facility with two male and two female cubicles. The cubicles contain a basin, shower and European type toilet. There is no hot water but the water pressure is good, and the water temperature not too cold! Adequate and reasonably clean.

There is no marina office in the marina itself, this is situated nearby (see later section). However, there are two security posts, manned 24 hrs, and one of the guards gives you an arrival form to complete, and return to him.

There is a brilliant taxi driver, named Simon, who will pick you up and take you into town, or elsewhere, for very reasonable rates. 10 Ringgit to town, 15 Ringgit for Immigration and Customs, 17 Ringgit for a diesel run (Maximum 250 litres). His ‘phone number is 019 886 1754, and he usually arrives within 15 minutes of calling him. Please keep your aluminium cans for him, as he recycles them.

Booking In or Out of Sarawak in Miri

Booking in and out of Miri is possible, as it is the last (or first) port of entry in Sarawak. The Immigration office and Customs office are located close together but on the other side of town in Jalan Persekutuan. The Port Offices are situated some 35 kilometres away!

When we booked out, I was expecting a hefty taxi fare for the visit to the Port Offices, but, because of the distance, Customs and Immigration will carry out outward clearance without the Port Office being involved. Inward clearance seems to be the same, but we did not need this. The officials were extremely helpful and very interested in yachties.

Marina Offices

These are situated in the local town centre. Leaving the marina, walk along the road until you reach a “T” junction. Turn right. The main road is ahead of you. Walk towards the main road (dual carriageway) and turn right again. Walk against the traffic flow until you reach the first of two large buildings, on your right, with shops etc. underneath them (the nearest bakery, Ma Bakers, is situated here). The furthest building houses the marina office. Walk the full length of the second building, and enter the last entrance on your right (you have to be “buzzed” in). Walk upstairs, turn right at the top, and the marina office is directly ahead of you through the door. There is a booking-in form to be completed, and a guest book to be signed, but I did all this the day before we left the marina!

Miri Town

Miri town is quite close, and is just about walking distance (if you don’t have to carry anything heavy!) 40 – 45 minutes should get you there. A bicycle is a better option if you have one. There is a “shortcut” which knocks about 5 minutes off the trip. Walk down the road leading from the marina until you reach the “T” junction. Obliquely to your right, across the road, there is a concrete roadway. Take this concrete road, avoiding the manholes with the missing manhole covers (walk in the middle at night!). You will reach a concrete step (up), about 450mm high, and, after this step, the concrete road veers to the left. Keep going until you see the main road on your right-hand side. Either join the main road or keep walking on the concrete road until you come across the 450mm concrete step (down).

The name of this road in Jalan Kubu. You will see a sign for Jabualan Laut, but the office is closing, so no Port Clearance is possible here.

There are two large commercial centres on your right, the first one you meet is Centre Point Commercial Centre 2, the second after the complex road junction, is Centre Point Commercial Centre One. This one has the nearest ATM cash machine that worked for us, in the Maybank branch. There are no shops or banks in the town near the marina offices, as such.

Both centres are worth exploring, a 63 amp electrical plug can be obtained from the electrical store on the outer (North West) side of Centre Point Commercial Centre 1 on Jalan Melayu. There are also several good hardware stores in the same area. Chinese food stalls and cafes abound.

The Tourist Information Office is situated quite close to the Commercial Centre 1 and a Tourist Map (free) is well worth picking up. All the amenities mentioned in this report can be found on the map.

The local produce market, both indoor and outdoor, is situated in the streets past Commercial Centre 1. The Chinese butchers are excellent, and the little old ladies will sell you any of their products, for next to nothing.

There are two large supermarkets in town. One (Boulevard) is off the underground car park of the Imperial Mall Shopping Centre, it really is underground!. It is best entered by walking down the ramp to the entrance to the underground car park. The other is the well known Giant Supermarket, and this is situated in the Bintang Shopping Complex. Both are good, with butchery departments and fresh fruit and vegetable and fish. Alcohol at Malay prices is available too. They both take Visa-branded cards. Simon is your best bet for a large shop. He’ll drop you off at either one and pick you up after you have finished. Call him 15 minutes before you finish shopping and he’ll be waiting for you. There are numerous other shops in both complexes.

The so-called old town runs around Jalan Permaisuri and Jalan North Yu Seng. Here you will find the shop houses and older stores, pharmacies, etc. We had a problem with one of our computers and New Century Computers, Lot 297, Jalan Indica solved it for me, for no charge! They have an excellent range of computer peripherals and are Intel Specialists.

Both Maxis (Hotlink) and Celcom have major branches in town.

There are numerous dentists, clinics and a hospital in town.

Other information

Miri is a centre for the off-shore industry of Northern Sarawak. There are anything and everything for this industry nearby. They haven’t heard of the prefix “Yacht” to anything yet, so the costs of hardware etc. are very reasonable.

Simon is the guy to ask about anything. He is the local mine of information.

We bought two 8 ft x 4 ft sheets of plywood from a local carpenter who was working on a tripper boat in the marina, about £40 for the two, (waterproof ply), one 13 mm thick, the other 22 mm thick. Delivered!

We had two Camping Gaz bottles, plus one 12.5 kg European gas bottle filled, through one of Simon’s contacts, Hoya Gas, Telephone No. 013 843 6762. He collects and returns the bottles for you. He even overhauled and repainted one of our rusty Camping Gaz bottles!

We had our anchor chain, 100 meters, 12 mm, and a 45 lb CQR anchor, re-galvanised by Hap Jet Galvanized Sdn. Bhd. Telephone No. 016 872 9886. Again collected and delivered, for 1000 Ringgit. They have a “rattler” so all the links were separated upon the chains’ return. There seems to be a good layer of zinc too.

An outboard specialist can be found in town, again, ask Simon. Diesel engineers can be recommended by the marina management. They don’t speak any English but seem more than competent, a yachtie used them while we were there and was very impressed with the service. There are also diesel engine spares to be found locally, for most popular makes of engine. As usual, check with Simon.

We tried the Chinese Sea Food restaurant, by the Sea Horse, but were not too impressed. A long walk round to it, and nowhere to tie your dingy up to on the Marina side.

There is also a Bar in the Marina, on an old tripper boat. We visited once, but at 12 Ringgit a small bottle for beer, it wasn’t to be our watering hole! The Karaoke was pretty poor too! It is popular with the local Chinese community and closes at about 22:30, so noise was not a problem. They did have Wi-Fi, password protected, so secure. We didn’t find a Wi-Fi network or Internet Cafe, but they do exist. (We use a Celcom SIM card in a USB modem).

A dive firm or two runs from the Marina, check with them for air bottle refills, dive trips etc.

Trips to the local Niah Caves and other local tourist sites can be arranged through Simon.

Miri Airport is nearby and has local flights on a regular basis.

Laundry can be found near the Marina Office, they will pick up and deliver. We didn’t use it but other yachties recommend it. It does have signs showing its location.

There is a resident crocodile in the Marina, so underwater DIY jobs are carried out at your peril.

When you finally leave the marina, there is sufficient water in the entrance and over the bar if the tops of the piles by the walkway to the pontoons are covered.

Miri Marina is a well-kept secret. It is secure if you want to leave your yacht for extended periods, but like all of Malaysia, remove any portable items from the decks before you leave.

Jerry & Caz

SY Mandarina