Rodrigues – A Welcome Stopover
After a hard 2000 mile passage from Cocos Keeling or an even harder passage from Chagos, stopping at Rodrigues is a real tonic before setting out again. These notes were prepared by Chris and Lorraine Marchant of SY Gryphon 2 in June 2014.
Published 10 years ago, updated 6 years ago
Introduction: The Islanders are largely the descendants of African slaves who
came here once freed. The majority speak Creole and French but the official language is English so most people do speak some English too. The scenery is stunning and there is some good hiking to be had. The climate is perfect after the heat and humidity of SE Asia and you may even need a duvet at night!
Approach and Entrance: By day the approach is straightforward, although older C Maps have a big offset. Newer C maps and Navionics charts are both good. The outer reef can be passed either by the wider Western pass or in a good light by the Eastern pass. The Western pass has leading marks that are reportedly difficult to make out, but according to the harbourmaster is lit at night. The entrance through the fringing reef is well marked and clear with lit port and starboard hand markers. The recommendation of the harbour master, if needing to enter at night, is to enter via the Western Pass and anchor overnight outside the fringing reef.
Mooring/Anchoring: Yachts are permitted to lie along the main wharf except when the supply boat comes in when they will be asked to move to anchor either outside the channel or if there are only a few boats in the corner bounded by reef opposite the dock wall. (10m in mud over coral with good holding). There seem to be no security problems and there is a guard on duty all day but none obvious at night. There are no mooring charges and only a reasonable health fee to pay. The wall is not ideal for yachts but the wind tends to blow the boat away from the wall and the large ugly tyres that decorate it. There can be a little bit of swell at HW but it is not too bad. The water and the wharf are clean.
Formalities: One is expected to call the Harbour Master and/or the coastguard before arrival on VHF Ch16. The Health, Immigration, Customs and Port Authorities will all appear and have you cleared in quickly if with rather a lot of form filling.
Water: Water is in very short supply. There is rainwater in a large tank at the South end of the dock but it is not recommended for drinking unless treated. The harbour master may be able to supply small amounts of potable water, but has asked that we emphasise the shortage.
Diesel: Available by can from the garage 500m away, or for large amounts delivery can be arranged apparently.
Propane: Refilling not available but can buy one of the local cylinders and decant yourself if necessary.
Laundry: Ask the harbourmaster and he will arrange. Currently, it is very well done and a reasonable price.
ATM: There is a number; the closest is the Barclays Bank in the main street, which is the second left on leaving the dock gate.
Groceries: Straight up the road from the dock 100m on right is a good supermarket – Rousey’s. Fresh veg and fruit from the market at North East end of town every a.m. except Sunday. Bakery with excellent French bread turns right off the main street at Barclays bank.
Tourism: Excellent Tourist Office open 6 days a week has maps etc. Car hire is the cheapest from Mr Kong at a shop in the main high street opposite the EMTEL shop. Motorcycles can be hired easily. Buses are cheap, easy to use and go over the whole island. Giant tortoise sanctuary is well worth visiting. There are many good and well-marked walks around the island. Plenty of good restaurants.
Repairs: Usual range of mechanics etc. but nothing much specifically boat oriented.
Post: DHL office in town for getting spares flown in. The post office in the main street.
Health: Hospital is a 15-minute walk south of the town and has dentist and casualty etc. All free!
Wi-Fi: Simcard available from EMTEL or Orange in town will work in Mauritius too. OK, 3G signal.
Contacts: English couple Tim and Liz who are moving out here are very willing to offer support and local contacts if you need them. By 2015 they will have 2 nice two bedroom apartments for rent if you want to abandon the boat for a few days or have visitors coming out here. They can also recommend some interesting places to visit. Liz is Rodrigues born and therefore speaks French and Creole too should you need a translator. They have excellent knowledge of the island.
Tim & Liz
Email: ltmpoole@yahoo.com
Tel: 57892715
Harbour master: Capt. J. Gilbert. M. Mallet MNI, Master Mariner
Tel: +(230)8321121
Mob: +(230)57754134
Email: gilbert.mallet900@gmail.com
These notes were prepared by Chris and Lorraine Marchant of SY Gryphon 2 in June 2014.