After a one year crossing of the Indian Ocean, we were planning to sail from Reunion to Durban but got blown off course to Richards Bay. Glad we were too. Richards Bay is great, which Durban is definitely not (we drove there on several occasions, and there is no contest).

A few corrections to info. I have read before getting there:

• The haul out facility in Zululand is actually 30t, not 20. Moreover, Eric, the haul out the manager, will do all he can to get you out – almost – whatever your size, if needed.
• The haul out in Durban STINKS! Right amongst the container yards, no security, no bar nearby, it’s really bad. At Richards Bay, you are safe, have water, electricity, bars, restaurants, and competent workmen (particularly mechanical and engineering, i.e. machining parts etc…).
• There are 3 parties involved in Richards Bay: Port authority (for the “international” wall on arrival in Tuzi Gazi), Tuzi Gazi Marina, and Zululand Yacht Club.
• You have to check in at the International wall at Tuzi Gazi, but the more friendly side is definitely Zululand Yacht Club: Great facilities, very friendly people, BBQ on Monday night and Friday lunch,… So, after checking in at Tuzi Gazi, go to Zululand (about 10 minutes away), stay on their wall for free for 2 weeks, and then take either a mooring (dirt cheap) or a marina space (same price as Tuzi Gazi).
• Security on both sides is not an issue, although the general level of violence is definitely increasing in Zululand, and probably elsewhere in South Africa.
• The weather in this part of the world really stinks! A gale every 3 to 4 days on average (we’ve been here 3 months now), and getting the right window to East London/Port Elisabeth (the marina of which has been severely damaged a few weeks ago)/ Knysna/Mussel Bay/Capetown is a real challenge…

Winds tend to shift 180 degrees with very little warning, except the barometer movements. DO NOT RELY ON WEATHER FORECASTS, read the barometer, and be aware that 10 to 36 hours after it starts dropping, you WILL get hit with the next strong SW’ly. Typically, it will drop real bad, then stabilize, then start rising. 1 to 2 hours after it starts rising, boom! SW shift and quite strong winds.

Olivier

SY Mary Ann (54′ aluminium sloop)