Arriving here at night was no problem, the navigation lights are in a perfect condition indicating the fairway and the approach is without hazards. The Port Control officers track you on radar and make your course corrections for you. Though of course, the C-Map is perfect in every respect as always (so far!).

The Port of Salalah is very much a commercial operation. An endless stream of container vessels pours in and out around the clock and the huge cranes are never still for long. It doesn’t really affect us yachties across the other side of the complex. No heavy wash, nor noise reaches our little basin, in fact, the only constant sound is of the fish (tuna mainly) jumping out of the sea presumably being chased by bigger predators! There is also a fleet of traditional Dhows which trade along the coast whilst other smaller ones are used for fishing. Mind you I think a shower block which has a smaller resemblance to the black hole of Calcutta than the present one plus the construction of a dinghy dock would be a welcome addition to the facilities!

Repairs or spares /Salalah: Send parts by regular mail to Yacht in Transit/ Your name etc, Salalah Port Services, P. O. B. 369, 211 Oman. Takes five days from Europe. A lot of basic automotive items are obtained in the industrial area called Sinai halfway to Salalah town, 2 Riyals in a taxi. Diesel pump refurbished by Bosche in the capital of Muscat via a local agent. Replacement batteries (225 US$ for three 200Amp Truck type. Electrician checking the charging system and fixing various odd and ends 9US$ p/hour. Alternator rewound US$35. The trick is to meet a guy named Peter from the Engineering Dept at the Salalah Port Services. I was introduced to him at the little cafe/shop inside the port and everything suddenly fell into place!

Shopping in Salalah is surprisingly good, you can buy everything you need and most things you just want, however, the trip to Salalah town is ten miles away from the port. Having come across the Indian Ocean via Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling and Seychelles, I can confirm it is by far the best shopping since Australia. To get into town hitchhiking is the best bet, Omani people stop within a few cars, and a taxi back for 3 Riyals/9US$ is the usual way of doing things. It’s impossible to walk around with shopping bags, it’s just too hot. The opening hours of the stores are a bit inconvenient as there is a Siesta from 1300 to 1700 – but no point whining!! Some stores accept credit cards whilst most everybody prefers cash.

Chatting to the coastguard officials here one night, I was surprised to learn this was the stopover point for forty yachts last Spring 2001. They told me “September 11th changed things this year, not so many visitors. We want you to know you are welcome in Oman”.

JEZ

S/Y Winter Hawk