Uligan

Pipistrelle arrived in Uligan, the northernmost check-in harbor, at the beginning of March 2015.

We had chosen Real Sea Hawks Maldives as our agent, and from the first email contact, Assad was the epitome of efficiency.  Arriving at the weekend does not cause a problem or additional cost, and Assad came out to us with Customs and Immigration, together with a frozen tub of ice cream as a welcoming present!!  Now that is a first, together with the efficiency of handling the paperwork, the whole exercise was completed within the hour.  The officials were polite and courteous, and also happened to be mates of Assad, which makes a big difference!

Male

Male is different.  We had sailed from a tiny island to a bustling city, where despite the outward appearances, poverty and cramped living conditions exist.  Rasheed runs the agency here and is involved with shipping and security issues which a previous report has touched on.

Rasheed never met us, everything was done by email or phone, or for payment of the invoice and delivering gas and packages, he used an individual on Hulhumale where all the yachts anchor.  It is essential that whatever you ask for, you ask if there is a charge, and if so how much, and then negotiate if you don’t feel the price is fair.  If you are shipping parts in, either use Rasheed’s personal name and address, and expect to pay $30 US, or ask DHL to hold what you have ordered, and collect it direct for free, but check whether customs duties are payable.  Maybe ensure the value shown is less than $300 US.

Finally, be aware that if you pay the invoice in local currency, Rasheed might quote an unfavorable exchange rate, because he wants US dollars.  Do not involve Rasheed in the laundry, take it to the excellent laundry on Hulhumale and deal direct.  They will collect and deliver, or take a taxi, 25 ruffiah each way.

Fuel barges provide fuel to the dive boats that operate from Hulhumale.  They are generally there on Saturday when the guest changeover occurs.  Use this opportunity to obtain fuel, and I suggest you do not put the fuel directly into the tank, but into jerry jugs.  The meter had been tampered with on the fuel barge we used, but there is no argument when the jerry jug is stamped with 20 liters!

We then continued our passage south, but regrettably on an overnight passage between the atolls, we suffered a direct hit by lightning, which electrically disabled Pipistrelle, and with no wind or engine, we were left just drifting with the current.  A full account can be found at https://yachtpipistrelle.wordpress.com/2015/05/11/lightning-never-strikes-twice/

We were lucky to find yachtie friends close by, who came out to help us, and after guiding us to a secure anchorage,  then bypassed the electronic engine controls and gave us limited power.  We decided to make for Gan to effect repairs.

Gan

Maththi is Real Sea Hawks agent in Gan,  Addu Atoll, and over the 6 weeks that followed, he was incredibly helpful.  We had loads of new kit shipped in from Australia, New Zealand, the UK, Germany, and the US.  Fearing the same approach that we had experienced in Male, Maththi quickly put our minds at rest.  By using DHL, and his business address, he arranged for onward shipment from Male to Gan, the cost is minimal.  Maththi then applied a minimal charge for his management and dealing with Customs at the airport, and delivering directly to us.  The cost was a fraction of what was required in Male.  But deviate from DHL at your peril, one shipment came via Emirates, and sat at Male for a week until it was “found”!

He also introduced us to individuals who had skill sets that were useful, but we arranged for Steve

Gilmour of Category 1 Marine, Auckland, NZ, to fly in and stay for 10 days to repair the damage.  We knew him from our stay in NZ, and he works incredibly hard and is very clever and able.  Being a sailor is another big asset!

Anchoring arrangements at Gan are basic.  There is a lagoon between the islands of Gan and Feydhoo, which we used initially as we still had limited maneuverability.  Whilst the holding is good, we had two bow anchors deployed, the flies and mosquitos are dreadful.  There is a shallow patch outside, but otherwise, you are anchoring in water 30—40 meters deep.

Supplies are limited, all eggs are imported from India or Sri Lanka, and potatoes and other supplies can be difficult to find.  Whilst the repairs were going on, Elaine stayed at the Equator Village resort, a few minutes walk from the lagoon. Very reasonably priced, excellent food, and relaxing after a long day.

If you have any issues, contact Assad, he is simply brilliant and a great ambassador for Real Sea Hawks!  He has kept in almost daily contact with us throughout our ordeal and stay in the Maldives, and we could not speak more highly about his support.

Bob

SV Pipistrelle

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Uligamu

Male

Gan