The Lure of the Mediterranean

Like many boat owners, but especially those from the UK and colder climes, we found the lure of the Mediterranean too difficult to resist. We first succumbed in 2017, opting to base Nimble Ape II, in Gouvia Marina, Corfu. Still working full-time, we savoured the chance to fly off for long weekends of warm weather sailing and calm anchorages, as well as an annual two-week holiday for wider exploring.

Selecting a lesser-known cruising destination

Although we enjoyed our time there and the flight and transfer from Bristol to Corfu was convenient, we found the marina too large and impersonal for us and the berthing was extremely tight. The surrounding vicinity was less than salubrious with uncollected rubbish bags often piled along the road, while the abundance of restaurants and bars in the nearby touristy town were mostly lost on us. We managed to sail the boat back to Portland in the UK in between Covid lockdowns and decided we wanted something a bit different for our next Mediterranean home port, especially as we anticipated taking some time off work for extended cruising.

In the summer of 2022, we took three months to sail  Nimble Ape II from Portland to North Cyprus. Leaving the boat at Karpaz Gate Marina on the island’s Karpaz Peninsula over winter and spring, we returned from the UK the following year for three months of sailing in Turkey and Greece, overwintering at the same marina in North Cyprus again in 2023/24.

Good location to explore Turkey and the Aegean

With some prior knowledge of Karpaz Gate Marina, a 5 Gold Anchor Platinum marina, we elected for the unusual, more offbeat, choice of North Cyprus, with the view that it would be a good location from which to explore Turkey and the Aegean. We had no qualms about the quality of the marina, as the highest Platinum award is only granted by The Yacht Harbour Association to outstanding marinas. We had also visited by land to confirm our opinion.

Other Issues to Consider

However, we also had to consider a few other issues. Firstly, Cyprus is some distance from other cruising grounds (about 200nm to Antalya, Turkey; 300nm to Rhodes, Greece; 360nm to Bodrum, Turkey). Plus, there is the factor that Cyprus is a divided island, with the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus ( TRNC) a self-declared state. While the south of the island is more established as a cruising destination, the north has only been discovered by the community in the past 10 years.

In fact, before Karpaz Gate Marina opening in 2011 as the first international standard marina in the region and negotiated to lift the military ban on leisure sailing around the coast, the North Cyprus was relatively unexplored as a cruising destination.

The air of adventure and the opportunity to discover a Mediterranean cruising base off the beaten track, compared to the more crowded, well-known marinas, was appealing to us. We expected to encounter a few inconveniences, but relished the prospect of a marina resort – a peaceful, quiet retreat, with a touch of luxury for the few days alongside either side of a cruise.

Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus Status

The island of Cyprus is divided into two parts. The ‘Greek side’ is the internationally-recognised Republic of Cyprus, which governs the southern districts, while the TRNC in the north is only recognised by Turkey. North Cyprus is much less developed and touristic, especially on the north-east pointing Karpaz peninsula, much of which is wild and untouched and virtually deserted out of season – one of the big draws for cruisers we spoke to.

However, the limited international diplomatic relations of TRNC and the mistrust between the two territories in Cyprus presents a few issues of which boat owners should be aware.

Your passport is not usually stamped on entrance or departure to North Cyprus, whether you arrive by air to the region’s Ercan Airport (under five hours from London) or by sea. If you fly to Larnaca Airport in the south, you will cross one of the land borders by rental car or taxi for swift passport checks before entering the north, which we found to be an easy procedure.  We took advantage of the Karpaz Gate Marina airport transfers and simply handed our passports over to the driver without even getting out of the car at the border. Transfer time to either airport is about 90 minutes.

Karpaz Gate Marina is an official Port of Entry so the procedure of arriving and departing by sea to TRNC is quick and easy – one of the main benefits of the marina and the region. The marina coordinates all customs and passport checks on site. We simply informed the marina staff of the timings and they facilitated both inward and outward clearance. They will ask for copies of crew passports, registration and insurance documents to speed up the process. After our experience in Greece, it was in stark contrast to the time and hassle spent with the Port Police, Customs and Immigration, Post Office for TEPAI payment and Police Headquarters’ visits.

Sailing to Turkey

When sailing from Karpaz Gate Marina, the best strategy is to first sail to Turkey to be assured of no issues or scrutiny. You will need an agent in Turkey, which can be arranged by the marina. Once you arrive at one of the designated Ports of Entry (Bodrum, Datça, Marmaris, Fethiye, Kaş, Finike), the agent will need the ship’s papers, insurance certificate, skipper’s license and passports. He/she will then provide the transit log, assist with issue of your Blue Card (to monitor wastewater deposited ashore) and deal with formalities, leading you to see Port Police and Passport Control.

We departed from Karpaz twice and both times we checked in to Turkey at one of the closest options, Finike – about 200nm from the marina – and used Finike Yachting Agency. When we checked out of Turkey, we went from Datça where we used Seher Tour for a very reasonable cost. We did hear from other boat owners who sailed from Karpaz Gate Marina directly to Rhodes or another Greek marina for check in and they reported it is possible, but required a bit more time and effort with the authorities. If you want to sail to South Cyprus, the advice is again to sail to Turkey first to avoid any issues with the South Cyprus authorities. There are no problems with sailing from the south side to TRNC.

In addition to the easy check in and check out of TRNC, one of the advantages of the region for UK boat owners is that it offers berthing outside the EU, allowing extended cruising in the Mediterranean beyond the 90-day EU visa-free travel.  It is also worth noting that English is widely spoken in the TRNC.

Annual berthing at Karpaz Gate Marina

We set off from Portland, UK, in July 2022, sailing via Gibraltar, Malta and several Aegean islands, to position ourselves in Rhodes for the final 300nm leap to Cyprus by late October. We stayed in touch with Karpaz Gate Marina and, on arrival, were immediately led to the customs dock to complete check in. We were smoothly moved onto our final berth, with two staff receiving stern lines and another magically appearing on the bow to arrange the lazy lines. Quickly hooked up to electricity and water, we were handed the WiFi code and marina access card without even visiting reception. To say the service was far above any we have received during 20 years of sailing in the UK, Europe, US and Caribbean is no exaggeration.

The atmosphere at Karpaz Gate Marina is serene and peaceful, with clear water and wide berths allowing welcome space between neighbouring boats. Another benefit widely appreciated by the marina’s community is the welcoming and friendly staff. They will endeavour to help with all enquiries from marina lay-out and facilities, advice about excursions and local sites, hire cars or marina transportation. Unlike many other large Med marinas, you are not just an anonymous boat owner. With around 300 berths, Karpaz Gate Marina is small enough to guarantee personal service, so expect to be greeted by name by the marina team. If you want, you can get to know fellow boat owners and become part of the community. There are regular get-togethers, requests for a table-tennis partners, gym sessions and so on. There is also a plenty of messaging and support, offering advice, items for sale and general banter!

Shoreside facilities

The other key benefit of Karpaz Gate Marina is the exclusive shoreside facilities. There is plenty on offer without stepping foot outside the marina grounds. We combined some cleaning and work on the boat, with breaks to enjoy the resort’s facilities, including meals and drinks at the all-day Hemingway’s restaurant, an easy walk to the Beach Club with private beach, infinity pool, beach restaurant and bar, plus the hamam and spa, and The Gallery which features an indoor pool, jacuzzi, gym, meeting rooms and studio.

There is also a new boutique marina hotel on site if you are ready for a night or two away from your berth but in sight of the boat. We opted to treat ourselves before our early departure flights back to the UK. There is a special discount for marina clients.

While back home in England, there were no concerns for us about the safety and security of the boat, confident in the knowledge that there are regular checks of lines and other issues.

In summary, Karpaz Gate Marina felt like a different level of luxury, quality, standard and service, compared to the other marinas we have sampled in Turkey and Greece. For this reason, the prices seemed more than competitive, but actually incredible value for money. We paid less than 5000 Euros for an annual flexible contract for our 50ft boat, which included berthing, storage ashore and travel lift services. At the time of writing (2024), there are also annual contracts available including a package enabling the boat owner to ‘freeze’ their berthing deal for up to 3 months to allow for wider cruising. The extras of water and electricity can accumulate, especially for boat owners spending long periods aboard over the winter.

Some berth holders in this position opted for a diesel heater, with diesel priced at less than £1/litre in TRNC (2024). You will benefit from duty free fuel and exemption from VAT at Karpaz Gate Marina. In terms of prices generally in the region, inflation has been high, with prices now approaching those of the UK, especially for food and eating-out.

Be prepared for a remote existence

With the peace, quiet and nature of Karpaz Gate Marina also comes the remote aspect which some boat owners may not expect in the Mediterranean. We were more than happy to immerse ourselves in the pristine marina bubble for a few days – both either side of a three-month cruise or one December when we flew in from the UK to work on the boat. However, for anyone spending months on the boat in the marina, a car would probably be essential for serious provision shopping and exploration.

Step outside the marina gates and you will find a rural landscape sloping away from the coast and a road stretching east towards the distant tip of the peninsula and west to the nearest village Yenierenköy and the port town of Kyrenia.

For supplies, the free marina transport will take you about three miles to the nearby village – Yenierenköy, where there is a reasonable supermarket. We found this perfectly adequate for stocking up before sailing to Turkey and further afield.

In addition, a public bus runs to Famagusta each day. Hire cars are available for a minimum of three days, but reports we have heard suggest none are based locally and the delivery to/from the marina increases the cost. Apparently, some cruisers buy a car for the winter and resell, but cars can be very expensive in North Cyprus compared to UK prices.

What you can be assured of at Karpaz Gate Marina is one high-quality restaurant, an exclusive Beach Club, spa and hotel – all within steps of your boat – and concierge service for pretty much anything you might need, with natural surroundings either side. You will need to look into transportation options if you want to sample some of the other local restaurants, explore the Karpaz peninsula or visit the many, many other sites and attractions of the TRNC which I highly recommend doing (see suggestions below).

Repair services and facilities in TRNC

Standard chandlery options are available from the port town of Kyrenia (also known as Girne), about a 90-minute drive away. Karpaz Gate Marina has a technical centre, dry dock and 300-ton travel lift and is very willing to discuss and assist with any task, servicing or the ordering of parts. However, they sometimes need to find outside expertise for specialist jobs which can increase the cost. We used the team for hull cleaning and polishing, as well as standard repair, service and maintenance jobs, and had no major problems.  We arranged a lift out and other work remotely with the technical team who will take care of the tow to the dry dock at a reasonable extra cost.

TRNC cruising opportunities

As mentioned, the Karpaz peninsula offers cruisers the rare pleasure of a virtually unknown and untouched corner of the Mediterranean to explore, without the need to worry about crowds.
We did not have time to round the tip of the peninsula ourselves, but reports are positive from sailors who have visited various anchorages and ports.

One of the main destinations along the TRNC coast is Kyrenia, about 50nm west from Karpaz Gate Marina. We visited Kryenia Ancient Harbour by land, finding a busy, bustling area packed full of interesting shops, cafés, restaurants and bars. Founded in the 10th century BC and shaped like a horseshoe, the harbour is guarded by Kyrenia Castle which towers over the entrance. Other points of interest in the area include the shipwreck museum, which houses one of the world’s oldest wrecks – a 4th century BC Greek merchant ship which sank less than one mile from an anchorage in Kyrenia.

There is a marina in Kyrenia, within the commercial harbour, not far from city centre, which is apparently a good option as a base for a few days to visit the town, as the ancient harbour is too tight and crowded for visiting yachts.

Overnight anchorages

Heading east along the north coast of the island, there are a couple of viable overnight anchorages in calm weather between Kyrenia and Karpaz Gate Marina, including Alagadi Turtle Beach, where loggerhead and green turtles come to nest and Kaplica Bay. Both are reported to be good for swimming, to have a sandy bottom and protection from southerly winds, with a beach and mountain backdrop. There are warnings for this stretch of coast to keep a clear minimum of 2nm from the shore as there are hidden reefs.

Anchoring is possible outside Karpaz Gate Marina, then heading east towards the tip there is a popular anchorage known locally as Pigeon Island, which is reported to have good holding for an overnight stop in calm conditions. Next is a reported lunchtime option at ‘Oasis Restaurant Bay’ / Ayfilon Beach and an anchorage at ‘The Island’ with sandy shore and restaurant.

Heading further east towards the tip of the peninsula, there is an unspoiled anchorage at a natural bay, suitable for overnight in the right conditions and ideal for swimming.  It is also a good stop to go ashore to explore the protected Karpaz National Park. Boaters report good holding in 4m, a sandy bottom and protection from the south and north-west. Again, stay 2nm clear from the shore due to reefs.

Although some sailors report it is possible to cut through when rounding the end of the island, the advice is to avoid navigating between the mainland at the isles at the point of the peninsula. After rounding the tip, there is an anchorage at Zafer Burnu, with good views, protection from the prevailing westerly and a basic restaurant.

One of the best anchorages in the TRNC can be found at Monastery Bay / Golden Sands, a long stretch of sand known as one of the most attractive beaches in Cyprus. Holding is reported to be good, with a restaurant ashore and good conditions for swimming and snorkelling. Historic Apostolos Andreas Monastery is nearby.

Further along on the south side, there are reports of big waves which make it difficult to find any good overnight spots. Two further anchorages follow at Dipkarpaz, with protection from westerly and good holding in sand, and Boaz, with good holding, before the major port of Famagusta.

A rich and intriguing destination

North Cyprus is a rich and intriguing destination for visitors. Ancient castles and abbeys, tranquil villages and vibrant culture combines with a natural landscape with mountainous peaks, an abundance of flora and fauna and notable wildlife, including the region’s rare turtles and wild donkeys on the peninsula. There is an abundance of shops and restaurants and interesting attractions available at the main hubs of Famagusta (Gazimağusa), Nicosia (Lefkoşa) and Girne (Kyrenia).

From Karpaz Gate Marina, by bike or car, you can easily visit the tip of the Karpaz peninsula. On the way, you will almost certainly see the famous local donkeys. We took time to stroll along picturesque Golden Beach, the most remote beach in Cyprus, and stop at Apostolos Andreas Monastery. Dedicated to St. Andrew, the patron saint of travellers, it is a place of pilgrimage. Some believe in the healing properties of the waters and the site is considered holy by both Greek and Turkish Cypriots. The monastery is especially busy on August 15th (Assumption Day) and November 30th (St Andrew’s saints day). Undiscovered by many tourists visiting the rest of the Island, Karpasia features almost 50 sandy beaches. The pristine, natural environment is home to many inland and marine species, and the tip of the peninsula is a protected natural heritage area.

We also drove to St Hilarion Castle, a spectacular ruin on the Kyrenia mountain range. Kantara and Buffavento Castles make up the trio of ‘crusader’ castles. There are many other attractions in the TRNC, including the Ancient City of Salamis and Bellapais Village. If ancient castles and abbeys, sampling a new culture and an abundance of natural landscape, plants and wildlife, fill you with anticipation, then you will not be disappointed. You can also sample the casinos and a range of sports, including scuba diving and snorkelling, paragliding, golf and watersports.

Visas

We did not plan to spend more than a week in North Cyprus so we did not need to worry about visas. It is understood that visitors are given a 30-day visa on arrival. If you arrive by boat, this may be 60 days but it must fall within the validity of your contract. It is also reported that there are no problems getting a long-term visa if you have an annual berthing contract at the marina. However, some berth holders say there is a lack of definite official information regarding the visa situation and the process to extend a visa. The marina staff are on hand to help with an application for a longer period.

Conclusion

Cyprus as an island is blessed with a vast coastline, hot summers, mild winters and 300 days of sun per year. It is seeing a general increase in terms of marina development and yachting infrastructure, but the transformation is most notable in the less developed North Cyprus region.

We found Karpaz Gate Marina to be a high standard, yet affordable Mediterranean cruising base with a difference. It was an exceptional marina to return to after three months of cruising and also proved to be idyllic for a resort-style short break or holiday when flying in from the UK. It was a safe place to leave the boat for several months.

North Cyprus itself offers a real opportunity to experience an untouched side of the Mediterranean and an escape from the crowds. The region’s status as a self-declared state did not present any significant issues for us. In fact, the lack of bureaucracy and paperwork is a benefit – but we made sure to follow the advice to sail to Turkey when leaving TRNC, before heading to Greece or South Cyprus. If you have any doubts about clearance when sailing to or from TRNC, other paperwork and visa applications, the team at Karpaz Gate Marina will assist.

The remote aspect gives it an adventurous feel which we relished, but boat owners overwintering in the marina may begin to feel isolated without a car. For wider cruising, it is close enough to expansive Mediterranean cruising grounds, but outside the EU. The leap from North Cyprus to the Turkish coast is fairly easy and, from there, you are soon in the heart of Turkey’s cruising hotspots and then into the Aegean islands.

From Karpaz Gate Marina, we sailed to Finike in Turkey, then on to Kaş, Fethiye, Dalyan River, Knidos and Bodrum, before cruising Aegean islands such as Rhodes, Simi, Kos, Leros, Astipalaia, Patmos and Samos. It was a sensational summer, but, after spending the high season fighting for space to anchor or berth amidst the gulets, yachts and superyachts (and battling the Meltemi winds) in Greece and Turkey, we breathed a sigh of relief to return to the peace and quiet of North Cyprus.

Jules Riegal
SY Nimble Ape II

………………………………

About the Authors

Jules Riegal, a journalist, PR and content specialist, has been sailing with her husband, Chris Stanham, a Royal Navy veteran and qualified Yachtmaster Offshore, for 24 years on their own boat from various bases, including: Portland, UK; Solomons Island, Maryland USA; Corfu and Preveza, Greece; and North Cyprus. They have sailed extensively along England’s south and southwest coasts, as well as exploring Brittany, the Canary Islands, Bermuda and British Virgin Islands. In 2009, they sailed Nimble Ape I, a 42DS Jeanneau to the Chesapeake Bay, returning to the UK in 2012 via Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Jules and Chris now own 509 Jeanneau Nimble Ape II, based currently at Preveza in Greece.

………………………………

The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.

…………………………………

Find out all news, reports, links and comments posted on Noonsite, plus cruising information from around the world, by subscribing to our FREE monthly newsletter. Go to https://www.noonsite.com/newsletter/.