Posted 20th June 2010

We have done some good trips in the past but our recent adventure into Indonesian waters has us all grasping at the wonders of our planet with such relatively untouched beauty as Pulau Bawah. This island is situated 150 nautical miles north of Singapore and is the beginning of the Anambas Islands.

The paperwork completed, checks done food and fueled along with a quantity of other more relaxing fuel we make our way across the Singapore Straits to Nongsa Point Marina being our first stopover. We are met by a very helpful group of Indonesians who wants to ensure our stay be it short or long is a memorable one with unwritten words “help is only a mile away”. They take our passports, cash and in quick time do all the necessary paperwork to ensure our speedy departure for those wanting to do same day in and out.

The trip to Palau Bawah was in calm seas, no wind and fine weather which we were to experience for the next 7 days. Like all good adventures, a lot of the fun is finding a new place in the middle of a sea and anchoring safely. The entrance is marked by two white polystyrene markers. As you enter the lagoon you have to keep a good lookout for coral heads especially at middle to lower tides but the recent work to ensure the entrance to Bawah is marked and a safe depth for boats to passage made things very easy.

However, once past the entrance and into deeper water you get that “wow” factor, the blue lagoon with white sand beaches, coral reefs, palm trees and an idyllic surrounding of calmness. People have been here before and you see the huts with a jetty which reaches out to the end of the coral reef. Further down the island, you see an old fisherman hut where many an Indonesian fisherman has stayed past and present.

I have seen islands like this in the South Pacific but would have to say, it is great to have the south pacific in the South China Sea, it is impressive. We drop anchor in around 20 metres and gaze out, mostly very happy to be here. Now settled at anchor the first thought is a swim. On go the bathers, snorkel gear out flippers on and into the unknown. The water is warm and cool, clear- visibility for 5 to 6 metres and we head for the shoreline to view the coral reefs and fish life. We are the only sailing boat at this time in the lagoon along with a small Indonesian vessel.

Later that evening we are approached by a couple of local fishermen who are selling fish and lobster. Given our fishing record, we decide to barter and come to a conclusion ending with one lobster and five fish which in-turn made for a more interesting meal. The evening in the lagoon was a pleasant light breeze and it was noticeable the lack of mosquitoes and those other little bitters that haunt you during the night.

The following morning around 10 am after a lazy breakfast, we all watched a very large trimaran (Long Ranger) enters the lagoon and moves slowly past us. There are about 20 people on board and from the high tower, we hear the captain welcoming us to his island. Only later did we find out that the captain was a kiwi expat (New Zealander) and full of tall tales, on his last voyage with this vessel but had spent 30 years sailing these waters. Once anchored down there was a flurry of activity and people moved to get tenders away, kayaks off and swimming. Later that day the tender pulls alongside and we are invited to join the expedition to climb the mountain and view the surroundings. Along with pleasure craft which seemed to keep us company from Keppel Bay to Nongsa Point now to Bawah also arrived later that day all settled in for an evening.

Getting to the almost top of the mountain is a task. We arrive at the beach and with a group of 20 head into the rough but not dense bushland and begin to climb. No one seemed to know where the tracks were or in fact if there were tracks. Raffles Marina had as part of their package given a diagram of possible tracks, but it helps to take this with you not leave it on the table. Eventually, we all made it to a ridge just short of the top. However, being there you see the most magnificent blue water lagoons and reefs. Coming down was the easy part; mostly it was a slide and most arrived back at the beach with only a few scratches. Of course with all that exercise a mandatory swim was in order.

As the day progresses another yacht appears from behind the mangroves and (Local Hero) arrived to join us. Those onboard are feeling the same jubilation as you did when first getting there. You could see they were another bunch of newbie’s stopping to look at the wonderment, then shaking it off and making for the crystal cool waters of the lagoon and thoughts of exploration.

Later that day a group in several tenders heads off up the inner lagoon to a small cliff face to do some ab-sailing. We relaxed and swam only to be roused sometime later by tender seeking persons who may have some medical knowledge as there had been an accident on the cliff face where a young lady had broken her ankle. We carry a full medical kit and brace and happened to have on board an ex-army medic enjoying his stay. The girl was made comfortable and before dusk, the vessel made its way out of the lagoon heading back to Singapore. As the day passes into the night we spent some time with Local Hero with sailing tales of day’s before and a few cold drinks. After we left we were serenaded by guitars. We thank the musician for the slow serenade and await another day.

Another day dawns and beckons for more adventures. The weather is warm, sunny and you know it’s going to be a hot one. With lots of swimming and snorkelling, we decide to go view the other small islands and take a closer interest in the white sand beaches and coral reefs. Over the years fishing vessels have been there leaving old ropes still holding on, is now becoming part of the reef with coral growing over them. The unfortunate bit is the amount of rubbish that is washed up plastic containers, bottles and even fluorescent tubes spoiling the inshore beauty. There are strong healthy mangroves growing which protects the inner reef acting as a sea barrier. I was reminded of this when we stopped off in Northern Lombok many months back and met people whose job it is to teach locals about the conservation of the mangroves which is an initiative set up by the Indonesian government.

As early morning broke we head out through the reef followed sometime later by our new friends leaving tranquillity and setting a course for Siantan the town of Terampah Bay and thoughts of swimming in a wonderful freshwater fall which people had spoken about. Our time at Siantan was 36 hours enough to see what we wanted to see and form opinions. Our new friends who came with us to Siantan departed within 20 hours heading back to Bawah along with the Raffles crew (Lady Oliver) who had been in Siantan visiting and making arrangement for the special dinner to be held.

Way before the dawn breaks we set a course heading back to “Bawah”. Seas calm, moonlit early morning we motored out through the islands part of the Anambas group. Days before we had passed these same islands and could see developed housing, white sand beaches and palm trees. They have their own piece of paradise.

As we approached our destination I am reminded of who set up the program for the flotilla to be here. To the organizers – Raffles Marina, Nongsa Point Marina, the Department of Culture and Tourism and of course the boating community who become involved in these festivities. There were boats from a number of marina’s Keppel Bay, 1 deg 15, Raffles Marina and I am sure others. The remainder, as we approached was a cluster of boats heading for the opening at great speed, we included although much slower and from a differing course. Guarding the entrance but from a short distance a majestic pleasure craft which at dusk looked like a battleship watching over the fleet. It was full tide and 10 am as we slipped into the lagoon, this time with more ease as we had worked out the correct course. A bit of fun on anchoring as a blown fuse to the anchor winch and the team lets the anchor run free, forgetting the brake and laying nearly all the chain. I was happy that I had I checked it was tied on inside before departing, I guessed we were at anchor as I fix the problem and we go about recovering the nearly 100 metres of chain. All’s well, as the rest of the fleet enters to find a space and settles in for the day. It’s another warm one and groups of people from different vessels are readying themselves for walks up the mountain, kayaking, and diving, swimming and just plain relaxing. Most of the boats were there for the long weekend and packing in much activity for their short stay.

In the afternoon we were entertained with a short sailing display, something like an intoxicated Americas Cup race. Always fun to watch. By evening, as people returned to their vessels, we were given a display of tactical manoeuvring with the local navy who had stationed a small craft in the bay to move local fisherman out of the lagoon who I think had been making a point over a two day period. Outside of the lagoon not far from the hanging rock face, there were 8 fishing boats rafted up. The crews had been on the beach during the day, I guess enjoying their own festivities. It was of interest that one vessel snuck into the lagoon with no lights only to be met by a large navy flood light. Caught an embarrassment for the captain I would say. By 7.30pm we were on our way onto a small section of the beach where a bonfire had been built, it was a good fire and lots of drinks and good food were consumed, coupled with good company and guitars made for the more entertaining evening. It was getting late and time to head for the bunks and sleep time. It had been a good day but a long one given the early start. As we headed for sleep the party continued on other boats. Our time was up and we had planned for an early start heading back to Singapore.

We were sad to leave this tranquillity but will return another time to enjoy it.

Our thanks to David Bouterey for this interesting article.