Although we are now (2018) in the process of sailing around the South West Pacific, our journey started in 2016 with a voyage around New Zealand. We first sailed down the east coast of North Island and into Wellington and the Marlborough Sounds. From Nelson and Abel Tasman we then sailed down the West Coast to the Fiords. We continued onto Stewart Island and then up the east coast back to Auckland. In May 2017, we sailed off to Tonga, Samoa, Wallis, Fiji, New Caledonia, Australia Vanuatu and then back to our current anchorage in New Caledonia.

Our trip around NZ and the Pacific can be viewed on our blog at windshifters.wordpress.com.

Before we began our trip we searched around for personal notes and guides to help us find places to anchor and get information for walks, places to surf and other points of interest about each place we planned to visit. We are grateful for the information we received, which made our visits so much more enjoyable.

Auckland and North Island are magical places to sail around and have everything a cruising sailor would want including:

Beautiful, white sandy beaches.

Fantastic walks and hikes.

Safe anchorages.

Good surfing.

Great seafood to catch (but it’s important to know the fishing regulations).

Safety, we never locked our boat up except in marinas.

Stunningly beautiful.

Hot nice summer days.

Cold and rain as well.

Towns, with great coffees, food and wine.

Lovely people.

Here are some of our favourite spots from Whangaroa harbour (which is north of the Bay of Islands) and down to Mercury Islands, south of Auckland.

Note:

1. Most of the anchorages we liked are on Conservation land, which makes them so special. The Department of Conservation website (DOC) has all the information you need for walks and hikes in the areas and islands you will visits.

2. In addition to our favourite spots, there are so many, many more options for you to discover and enjoy.  The SpotX Cruising Guide is a good book for this area.

Whangaroa Harbour

This big harbour opens up when you sail into the narrow entrance. There are plenty Panaki of anchorages here, and a marina on the SE side of the harbour. Our favourite anchorage is Here Bay, just to the west once you have entered the harbour. From here, you can access a great walk up to the Dukes Nose from the DOC hut. This is a short but steep walk, and you need to hang on to some chains for support at the end. There are fantastic views once are you up on the “nose”. You can also take a dingy up the creek here on high tide, which is really a must do. There is also a beautiful longer walk (but we only did half of it) starting from the DOC hut towards Totara North.

This island has a few good anchorages with nice walks. Apparently, you can hear Kiwis at night; unfortunately, we never heard them. Just north of the island is a passage where the famous Rainbow warrior wreck lies. In 1985 The French Intelligence service sank the Greenpeace ship which was about to set sail to protest against French nuclear testing. Now you can dive on her. Our favourite anchorage is close to this at the little island called Panaki Island (see photo right), but it is only suitable in settled weather. There is good snorkelling to be found here and there is a lovely white beach near Cavalli island where we have also anchored.

Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands offers safe anchorages, fantastic walks and beautiful beaches. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed on these shores and it is well worth a visit to go and see the Waitangi Treaty museum by Pahia. Waitangi (NZ day) is February 6th. Russell is a lovely little seaside town with a ferry service to Pahia. Try to avoid the silly season around Christmas and the two weeks after New Year, when hundreds of boats will be there. It’s hard to pick a favourite spot here since they are so many including Rangihou Bay (Marsden Cross) in the North West side of the bay. This bay has a fantastic historic walk explaining NZ’s first European settlement and the first sermon given in NZ 1814 by Samuel Marsden. On the northeast side is Deepwater Cove (see photo left). From here you can access the walk out to the lighthouse which is absolutely spectacular. You need at least 4 hours return for this amazing walk.

South of Deepwater Cove is Oke Bay. This is a stunning place with clear water and a very small waterfall on the SE side NZ Okahu Passage, Bay of Islands where you can take a dip. There is also a walk to the top of the hill, which has great views. Okahu passage (pictured right) is a beautiful place to anchor with clear water and a lovely beach and it is fun to snorkel here. Urupukapuka Island has many walks with dramatic views and we love Paradise Bay. Moturua Island has a lovely walk around the island, which takes about an hour. Depending on the wind there are anchorages all around the island but our favourite is Waiwhapuku Bay.

South of the Bay of Islands is Whangamumu harbour, which is almost land-locked. Here you will find an old whale station and a walk up the hill for great views from the middle of the bay. The track actually goes all the way to Rawhiti in Bay of Island.

Mimiwhangata has a long open beach and some nice walks and a surfing area at the west end of the bay if you are lucky. In the west of the big bay is a small bay called Paparahi Bay, which we like in an SW wind. On a calm day, there is a beautiful anchorage in Rimariki Island. It looks tricky to get in here but the charts are good.

If weather and swell permits “The Poor Knights” are amazing.  It is a wildlife sanctuary but going ashore there is prohibited. It is a famous diving spot and tours from Tutukaka come out here. The Rikoriko cave is huge and ferries will go in there. We paddle boarded in one at a time whilst the other stayed on the boat. We only have been there for the day exploring, drifting along and snorkelling. You can anchor here, but it might be best to ask the locals where it’s best to put down the pick.  On the southern end is a big archway worth looking at. Another way to see these islands is on a dive tour from Tutukaka. North of Tutukaka is Sandy Bay which is a popular surfing beach. You can anchor thereNZ The Old Wreck or by Whale bay, which is lovely, and have a great coastal walk to Matapori bay.

Tutukaka Harbour is a good place to stop on the way down south, restaurants and a marina can be found there. Round the corner is Whangaumu Bay. Here you can surf in the river entrance if there is a swell. We had a fun day there in the surf. Patau, which is further south is a pleasant stop if the swell is down and there is a walk into this sea-side holiday settlement.

Hauraki Gulf

Hauraki Gulf is an awesome cruising ground near Auckland. There are some good anchorages at Kawua Island here and around Kawua Bay and our favourite spots are Jones Bay from where you can access the road into Tawharanui Regional Park. We have not anchored there but we love the park (we drive there from Auckland) It’s a stunning place with walks, mountain biking, and lovely surf beaches on the north side. Our two favourite spots in Kawua Bay Area are Dispute Cove. This is a lovely little corner with a walk to Manson House bay, which is well worth a visit (as a loop). George Grey was the first governor of NZ and he built the Manson house 140 years ago, which is now a museum. There is an old copper mine in Dispute Cove, which dates back to 1854. Motorekreka Island is another nice spot and gives good shelter in SW winds. There is an old wreck in the bay (pictured above) and it’s great to paddle board around this island. There is also a little walk, which is worth doing.

Tiritiri Matangi is a bird sanctuary with fantastic walks. We love the big loop all around the island. Anchor in beautiful clear water In Hobbs Beach or on the other side, in Fishermans bay or in NE bay. At the light-house, you can obtain all the information you need about the birds on the island. For some scallops and fishing during the day The Noises are lovely. Anchor by Otata Island. We prefer an overnight anchorage on Rakino Island at West Bay. There is a pleasant walk on this island from the little beach in the north corner.

On Motutapu island anchor during SW winds, but there are plenty of anchorages on this island and lots of with public walks.  Don’t miss a walk up to the crater of Rangitoto Island with fantastic views of greater Auckland. Anchor in Islington Bay. The roads and tracks on the islands were built by prisoners of war, held captive on the island.

Motuihe Island once had a prison camp for German soldiers held during WW2. In recent times there has been a pest eradication scheme and the island, like many others in the Hauraki Gulf, are now pest free. There are Kiwis here now and great walks around the island, which has lovely beaches. Anchor on either side of it, depending on the wind direction.

Waiheke Island

There is plenty to do and see on this great island. There are lots of wineries and good food. We love the coastal walks on the west side of the island. In Oneroa, the main centre, you can pick up maps and information on walks and tours. In Oneroa anchorage there is a woodfire pizza oven right on the SE beach (Little Oneroa) and it is a lovely place to sit in the evening sun.  On the northeast side there are some beautiful beaches whilst on the east side is a little bay of Islands well worth exploring, Pakatoa Island and Rotora Island have some awesome walks, so does Ponui Island, which is a private island but has some nice anchorages. From Man of War, you can walk up to Stony Batter, a historic WW2 site and partake of some wine tasting and sometimes there is little caravan there serving tasty food. If the swell or the wind gets up then the north side of Waiheke has a good few anchorages.

Our favourite spots on Waiheke

Onetangi is a nice corner with a lovely beach, Owhiti Bay (pictured left) is also a lovely beach and with access by dingy to  Garden Cove, which is a very special little bay and a great place for a picnic. Te Wharau Bay. There is a walk from here to the other side, which is part of the network of walks to Oneroa. When the wind is blowing from the N we liked this little private spot near Awaawaroa Bay.

Great Barrier Island

Colville channel between Great Barrier and Coromandel Peninsula is the windy place where the SW winds often accelerate.

About 40 miles NE of Waiheke is the stunning Great Barrier Island (see photo right taken from Mt. Hudson) with beautiful anchorages, fishing, surfing, biking, and hiking. On the west side are many safe anchorages and for an adventure sail over to the east and explore some magical places. If  the weather is settled you must not miss Mokohinau Islands, which is NW of Great Barrier. We anchored in The Cove in a patch of sand. It was just an amazing place and we took the dingy to the light house there.We love cruising around here.  For an adventure, it’s worth sailing to the east coast but it’s hard to get any internet there. Our favourite spot is at Whangapoua  beach and Arid Island  is a must visit NZ Mokohinau Islandsin settled weather.

On Arid Island (pictured left) there are caves you can paddle right through in a kayak on the west side and beautiful clear water to swim in. There’s also a good hike trail to the other side, which has access to the internet. Harotaonga Bay is nice and from there you can access a really beautiful walk along the coast called the Harotaonga  walkway.

If the wind turns NE or if the swell is too, bad we usually leave and sail north around to the west side. Here you have plenty of choices and great walks. You can access hiking maps and information about this magical island in Port Fitzroy. There’s a shop here with wine and food. There used to be a hamburger bar down by the wharf, which served a great burger. Fuel can be got here but I wouldn’t recommend drinking the water. The Mt Hobson walk is a not to be missed. There are 3 ways to access the top and all of them are great. Favourite anchorages for us are Bradshaw cove and on Kaikoura Island where we saw a whale there one morning. There are good walks on this island. In the Broken Islands our favourite spot, Kiwiriki Bay is a lovely place. You can take the dingy up the river at high tide in the northern part of the bay.

Smokehouse Bay

Smokehouse Bay is (pictured right) a fun place where you can have a hot bath, wash your clothes and smoke your fish. There is a good walk over to the other side. There is (or was) a little natural Manuka oil making plant next to smokehouse bay (south) and they had some of their nice products on sale. From Kaiara Bay you can access the walk up to Mt. Hobson. The backdrop in this anchorage is beautiful. Further south is Whangaparapara, and from here you can access walks and natural hot pools. There is a lodge there which I think is still up and running. You can rent a car at Great Barrier Island if you want to explore more.

Mercury Islands

This is a private island but they don’t mind visitors, but avoid the peak season.

On the south side you have stunning beautiful bays with clear water.  All of them are great. Peach cove is lovely. Take your dinghy over the

two boats is Sheep Cove (see photo left)), which lies just east of Peach cove. We had a pod of dolphins here swimming around the boat for hours.sand bar and go up the river where there is a water-fall and a water hole to swim beyond that. My favourite spot even in a SW wind for one or

A safe and calm anchorage is in The Cove and there are moorings here for you to use. You can take a lovely walk up the hill and over to the other side, the access to the walk is at the NE side of the bay by the jetty. In settled weather sail over to Korapuki Island and explore by dinghy. A magic dinghy ride is through a tunnel into a lagoon on the east side (it’s a wild life sanctuary so landing is not permitted).

Coromandel Peninsula

This peninsula has heaps to offer for cruising. We often go here for a long weekend from Auckland, or on our way to and from Mercury Island. A good anchorage is in Stony Bay (see photo right) on the east side, or Shag Bay on the northern headland which makes for a pleasant stop when transiting north or south. There are someNZ Stony Bay caves and walk possible from here.On the west side of Coromandel peninsula are lots of little island to explore. Check out Happy Jack Island. Sometimes at night a SW starts to blow in there so be aware. The lovely little township of Coromandel is well worth a visit with a dinghy ride from at HW. The hardware shop is fun to visit and we bought a leather hat from there.

Happy Sailing guys! Hope you will enjoy some our favourite spots but make sure to discover your own favourites in beautiful Aotearoa.

Ulrika Silferberg of sy Adamite

Location of anchorages and bays:

Arid Island 36° 7’ 24” S 175° 29’ 61” E

Awaawaroa Bay 36° 50’ 34” S 175° 5’ 60” E

Bradshaw cove 36° 10’ 36” S 175° 19’ 32” E

Broken Islands 36° 13’ 58” S 175° 18’ 46” E

Coromandel 36° 47’ 13” S 175° 27’ 51” E

Deepwater Cove 35° 11’ 50” S 174° 18’ 19”E

Dispute Cove 36° 26’ 23” S 174° 49’ 65” E

Garden Cove 36° 45’ 92” S 175° 8’ 18” E

Happy Jack Island 36° 39’ 49” S 175° 22’ 37” E

Harotaonga Bay 36° 9’ 93” S 175° 28’ 95” E

Here Bay 35° 00’ 56” S 173° 43’ 80” E

Hobbs Beach 36° 36’ 20” S 174° 53’ 03” E

Jones Bay 36° 22’ 64” S 174° 49’ 32” E

Kaiara Bay 36° 11’ 05” S 175° 21’ 73” E

Korapuki island 36° 39’ 51” S 175° 50’ 81” E

Mimiwhangata 35° 25’ 90” S 174° 25’ 15” E

Motorekreka island 36° 28’ 48” S 174° 47’ 73” E

Okahu Passage 35° 12’ 22” S 174° 12’ 63” E

Oke Bay 35° 13’ 73” S 174° 16’ 11” E

Onetangi 36° 46’ 85” S 175° 03’ 92” E

Owhiti Bay 36° 45’ 68” S 175° 8’ 80” E

Panaki Island 34° 58’ 63” S 173° 57’ 05” E

Paparahi Bay 35° 26′ 10″ S 174° 23′ 73″ E

Paradise Bay 35° 13’ 02” S 174° 13’ 59” E

Pataua 35° 42’ 82” S 174° 32’ 02” E

Peach Cove 36° 38’ 27”S 175° 48’ 59” E

Rakino Island 36° 43’ 18” S 174° 56’ 44” E

Rangihou Bay (Marsden Cross) 35° 10’ 29” S 174° 05’ 69” E

Rikoriko Cave 35° 29” 05” S 174° 44’ 05” E

Rimariki Island 35° 25’ 57” S 174° 26’ 68” E

Sheep Cove 36° 38’ 42” S 175° 48’ 98” E

Smokehouse Bay 36° 11′ 91″ S 175° 19′ 20″ E

Squadron Bay 36° 49’ 30” S 175° 26’ 03” E

Stony Bay 36° 30’ 50” S 175° 25’ 56” E

Te Kouma 36° 48’ 99” S 175° 25’ 72” E

Te Wharau Bay 36° 48’ 40” S 175° 06’ 97” E

The Cove, Great Barrier Island 35° 54’ 68” S 175° 06’ 15” E

The Cove, Mercury Island 36° 36’ 08” S 175° 46’ 51” E

Tutukaka Harbour 35° 36’ 99” S 174° 32’ 07” E

Waiwhapuku Bay 35° 13’ 10” S 174° 11’.66” E

Whangamumu Harbour 35° 14’ 98” S 174° 17’ 80” E

Whangaumu Bay 35° 38’ 23” S 174° 31’ 53” E

Whangaparapara 36° 14’ 67” S 175° 23’ 66” E

Whangapoua Beach 36° 6’ 88” S 175° 25’ 94” E