The following cruising information is provided to help sailors visiting Mozambique. This information is based on two U.S.A. citizens on the 42-foot catamaran YOLO with no pets.

ARRIVAL DAY/ DATE:  Sunday, November 1, 2015,*

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE PORT:  Baia Do Bazaruto, west of Bazaruto Island, Mozambique

DEPARTURE DAY/DATE:  Monday, November 9, 2015,*

* I never officially cleared into or out of Mozambique.

INTRODUCTION

For most cruisers, Mozambique is used as a stepping stone between the north coast of Madagascar and Richards Bay, South Africa (the northernmost port of clearance).  And, many cruisers sail down the east coast of Mozambique WITHOUT officially clearing in or out for several reasons:

1.  It is nearly impossible to travel between northern Madagascar and northeast South Africa during one weather window, which has a rhumb line distance of about 1,300 nm.  The Mozambique Channel must be utilized during this passage and this body of water is like a southbound runaway freight train on steroids.  You must travel south via the channel with its strong southbound current when the winds are from the north, or pay a huge uncomfortable and potentially dangerous penalty for going to windward.  For months at a time, the northern wind windows typically last around three days.  Given the above, sheltered Mozambique anchorages are often used during strong winds from the south, which can last five days or more.

2.  There are no convenient ports-of-entry in the areas frequented by cruisers.

3.  Clearing in and out of Mozambique officially takes a long time and a bucket of money.

PASSAGES TO MOZAMBIQUE

Most yachts leave from a location on the northwest corner of Madagascar.  There are several potential departure points after clearing out of Majunga, Madagascar:

1.  Majunga, 15.43.8 South and 046.18.4 East

2.  Nosy Antsoheribory, 15.49.7 South and 045.59.9 East, aka Boeni Bay

3.  Baie De Maroambitsy, 15.59.0 South and 045.35.6 East

4.  Baie De Baly, 16.01.6 South and 045.19.2 East

The lats and longs noted above are general reference locations, NOT specific anchor locations.  Sit back and enjoy your anchorage while you wait for the appropriate eastern and/or northern winds.  When the weather looks right, exit Madagascar.

From this point forward it is important to pull the RTOFS current files.  Travelling in the swift west or southbound currents is critical after leaving Madagascar.  It can mean potentially travelling at 10 knots with the current, or literally sailing forward while actually travelling backwards in light winds when fighting the current!  To minimize sailing time and potential exposure to heavy weather you must position your yacht in the Mozambique Channel to optimize wind AND current.

Given a good weather window, most yachts can cover about 700 nm before they have to seek shelter along the coast of Mozambique.  So, the first anchorage is usually Baia Do Bazaruto.

BAZARUTO

Sailboats typically approach Bazaruto Island from the north and end up anchoring on the west side of the island.  The approximate anchorage location is 21.38.9 South and 035.26.1 East.  Bazaruto is a very large island with just a few locals on it.  It is a huge high sand dune which stretches for kilometres.

The anchorage can handle dozens of boats at the same time.  Anchor in 8 to 10 meters of water.  The bottom is endless sand and the holding is great.  Just what you need when the winds are 30+ knots out of the south for days on end.  Put out plenty of scopes and don’t crowd your neighbour because the winds are often very strong.

You might get a visit from several guys who claim to be from the local Marine Park.  It appears that they only approach yachts when the weather is settled so that they can stay dry during their money collecting round.  Their clothing and vessel certainly fail to give you the feeling that they are “official” park employees.  In November 2015, SOME yachts were asked to pay a Marine Park Fee of $47.30 USD.  The fee was payable in local currency, U.S. dollars, or South African Rands.  There are no local ATMs or banks at this anchorage.  They did not approach or ask for payment from about half the boats during my stay at Bazaruto.  Those that paid did get a paper receipt.  None of the yachts was requested to officially clear into the country.

You have several options for exiting Bazaruto.

1.  Sail North, East and South, around the northern end of the island, retracing your entry route through the channels.  This certainly takes several hours in good winds.

2.  Sail/motor out the pass at the southern end of Bazaruto Island, via the northwest channel.  This is the quickest way to leave the area.  Nine yachts used this course during November 2015 and the minimum water depth I saw at mid-tide was 3.4 meters, which only lasted for 2 short distances.  Most of the time the water was 10 meters deep or more.  The waypoints that I and others used were:

A.  21.44.0 South and 035.24.4 East

B.  21.44.4 South and 035.24.4 East

C.  21.44.9 South and 035.24.5 East

D.  21.45.3 South and 035.25.2 East

E.  21.47.0 South and 035.25.3 East

F.  21.47.5 South and 035.25.7 East

G.  21.48.4 South and 035.26.8 East

H.  21.48.0 South and 035.28.6 East

I.   21.47.6 South and 035.29.7 East

3.  Sail/motor out the pass at the southern end of Bazaruto Island, via a channel near Ilha De Santo Antonio Island.  Numerous historical documents distributed among yachties reference this departure method and related waypoints.  This exit strategy will take you at least 1 hour longer than Option 2.

Departing Bazaruto Island during a strong easterly wind can be very challenging.  Especially when crossing the outer channel bar for Options 2 and 3 noted above.

LINGA-LINGA / BARROW

About 140 km south of Bazaruto is Linga-Linga and Barrow.  Some yachts seek shelter at these locations.  Linga-Linga is located near 23.44.5 South and 035.24.1 East.  Barrow is near 24.46.5 South and 035.30.8 East.  Yachts which went to both locations in 2015 reported good holding.  Those that anchored near Linga-Linga enjoyed better protection from the screaming southerly winds and waves.  Locals did not approach the yachts at these locations.

MAPUTO

Maputo is the capital of Mozambique, and it’s the largest city.  It is an official port of entry.  It is about 250 km south of Linga-Linga.  In 2015 yachts avoided poor weather conditions by dropping their anchors in several locations:

A.  Cabo Inhaca, 25.57.6 South and 032.59.0 East

B.  Baixo Chaimite, 25.59.3 South and 032.53.8 East

C.  Near downtown Maputo in the river, 25.57.6 South and 032.31.4 East

Yachts at all three locations reported good holding.  The downtown Maputo option certain exposes you to clearance officials.  However, several yachts anchored here for three days to sit out ugly weather and were NOT required to clear in or out of Mozambique.  One yacht was approached by a local marine police boat and asked to move several hundred meters to make sure that the yacht was outside of an unidentified marine park area.  The crew of these yachts never ventured to shore.

It is about 200 km from Maputo, Mozambique to Richards Bay, South Africa.

NAVIGATION

My Navionics and C-Map electronic charts were pretty accurate in Mozambique.

Consider the navigational information noted below as suggestions, and rely on your own sailing skills for accuracy and safety.  In good weather and light conditions, it is very obvious where reefs, shallow water, and deep channels are located.

PORTS-OF-CALL

For practical purposes, Maputo is the only port-of-call when sailing between Madagascar and Richards Bay, South Africa.  I only know of one yacht which officially cleared into and out of Mozambique in 2015.  And, if my memory is correct the total cost of doing so was around $400 USD.  Personally, I know the fee for Immigration for 2 US citizens is a total of $100 USD, however, I don’t know the details concerning the other fees.

AGENTS

You are NOT required to have a shipping agent when clearing into and out of Mozambique.

VISA AND BONDS

There is confusion concerning these requirements.  According to all of the official Mozambique websites, a VISA in advance is required for most visitors.  After reviewing the requirements for the VISA, I determined that they were impossible to achieve during the average lifetime of a healthy human.  So, I did not apply for a VISA.

However, in December 2015, I visited a land-based border crossing in Mozambique and the officials stated that prior to arrival VISAs were NOT required.  Just hand over $50 USD per person and the officials will stamp your passport.

SUMMARY

Yachts typically keep a low profile when seeking shelter in Mozambique waters.  Several great anchorages provide relief from the strong southern winds.  In 2015 most governmental officials remained in their environmentally controlled offices during the windy periods, so the transient yachts were left in peace with their unmolested wallets.

SUBMITTED BY: Jason Trautz, s/v “YOLO” (You Only Live Once, life is not a rehearsal)