Mayotte August 2014: Many beautiful and well-protected anchorages
Published 10 years ago, updated 6 years ago
In August 2014 we visited Mayotte, anchoring on the north side of Petite Terre near the Mayotte Yacht Club (known as ACHM). Although Noonsite reports that there are no local moorings available for visiting yachts, there were actually two available when we visited. Without a mooring, it is necessary to anchor quite a long way from the landing, in order to have sufficient swing room, but the trip in and out is easy.
Security
We did not encounter any violent crime nor hear any reports of violent crime against cruisers. Because of the warnings on Noonsite, we were cautious, so it is difficult to tell how safe Mayotte is if you want to go walking around on your own at night, but it felt safe in daylight. There are many sailors resident in Mayotte and more who do regular “visa runs” from Madagascar, and the Yacht Club is a very friendly and welcoming place. The yacht club members do not speak much English on the whole, so perhaps this is where the reports of “unfriendliness” came from, but we found them extremely welcoming, allowing us to use their kitchen facilities every day if we wished, to use their washing machines on an honesty system, and to use their wifi at no cost. They offered us English language movies on their weekly movie night. The yacht club has a relaxed, down-to-earth feel. We did have our petrol tank stolen from our dinghy after we foolishly left it in a public place, but this could happen almost anywhere in the world.
Sights to See
There are many beautiful and well-protected anchorages around Mayotte and those who are there for more than a short time might enjoy sailing all the way around Grande Terre, which would allow you to visit many beautiful beaches, with all anchorages well-protected by the outer reef. Yacht club members are happy to show you good anchorages on a chart and recommend some of the highlights of the islands, such as the Emerald Lake, the enormous ancient baobab trees, and pretty beaches full of turtles swimming around in shallow water. Whales are frequently sighted in the north. We did hear that some locals on Grande Terre might be hostile to foreigners walking on the beaches after dark. We do not know whether this is true, but I expect the beaches that have tourist resorts on them should be safe to anchor it. Up to date information will be available at the Yacht Club. We were short of time so toured the island by car and saw many beautiful spots. We did also anchor in the very north of Grande Terre and discovered a peaceful, uninhabited, and very beautiful anchorage.
The nearest of the Comoros Islands, Anjouan, is only a day sail away from Mayotte and is also well worth a visit.
Internet
Apart from the free internet at the Yacht Club, the internet is difficult here. Most packages are sold with a long-term contract and are very expensive, and MayotSpot, a sort of public wifi, had very limited range outside of the main town, which is not near the anchorage.
Provisions and Eating Out
There is a great range of provisions here with many items flown in from France. Prices are similar to the Seychelles, which means, they are more expensive than most places in the Indian Ocean. Eating out is very expensive.
Clearing in and out
It is very difficult to get the Customs Department to open their doors and come and clear you in or out. Their doorbell doesn’t work and they don’t seem to care much even if you bang on the door. We made several trips there (a short walk from the anchorage) before we succeeded. For immigration, you must go to the airport. They are very relaxed, and we had to remind them to stamp our passports.
Rose Carlyle
SV Smoke, New Zealand
Related to following destinations: Mayotte