Japan

The following summarizes our notes from the 2015 cruise of Let’s Go! From Okinawa to Kushiro, Hokkaido, Japan from April to June, 2015. They are an edited version of the Japan segment of a blog that covers the March to August cruise from Pohnpei, FSM to Southeast Alaska. (http://www.sailblogs.com/member/lets_go/).

South of Kyushu, Japan

Okinawa

Let’s Go! Sailed from Guam to Okinawa in April.

Ginowan Marina (26 16.591’N, 127 43.691′ E)

As of April 2015, Ginowan Marina, in spite of the fact that it is a closed port, was the preferred port of entry at Okinawa and the Japan Coast Guard expected yachts to report for the clearance process there. However, in June 2015, SY Dot was refused permission to go directly to Ginowan by the JCG and entered Naha Port to berth at 26. 12. 331’N. 127. 40. 218′ E. They were required to obtain written permission from the Ministry of Transportation and Infrastructure before they could move to Ginowan Marina where they were then able to secure a berth for a considerable period. This may have been a one-time situation as many yachts have gone to Ginowan for inward clearance and some have simply shown up at Ginowan.

Japan Ginowan marina

As you approach the entrance to Ginowan Marina, you initially follow the large buoy’s, first red, then red and green (“red right returning”), but you must watch for two small buoys, red and green and easy to miss, that you must pass between on a dogleg toward the marina breakwater. There is shallow water on either side of these two buoys and it is reported that yachts who have missed them have run aground on coral. Once past the entrance to the marina bear right toward the travel lift and moor at the fuel dock for clearance if you are able to clear in at Ginowan or simply temporarily moor while you get your berth assignment from the marina. Technically, you should moor at the Ginowan visitors pontoon to the left of the travel lift that parallels the marina grounds but during our entry and for all of the time we were at Ginowan, the visitors dock was taken up with small runabouts while the fuel dock was empty.

Once we were cleared in with the relevant officials (Coastguard, Customs, Immigration, Quarantine) we made our way to the Marina office by foot (building with a yellow roof) and announced our arrival. Because we had sent an email (more than one) to the marina (no response), and had notified the Coast Guard of our intention to enter at Ginowan before leaving Guam, 24 hours out of Okinawa and one hour before arrival, the marina staff expected us. We were quickly assigned a temporary berth. The fee was 2370 yen per day. A longer stay would no doubt be accommodated at a lower fee but since we planned to leave as soon as we had clearance for closed ports up to Fukuoka, Kyushu we did not negotiate. The marina offers free wifi and there is a vending machine right outside the office that beams “Okinawa Free de Wifi” as well. So if the marina office is closed (hours 8 AM to 6 PM, closed Tuesday), then you can sit on a rock next to the vending machine and receive the other signal. There is a time limit per device, however.

There are excellent showers with hot water available for 160 yen. The staff understand English and are reasonably fluent. They are also ready to assist. The Manager, Tabata san, who has been at Ginowan for about a year understands and speaks English well and is a genuinely caring individual who will drop what he is doing and help with whatever problem you have. We took on fuel at the marina at 120 yen per liter. A four-lane road lies between the marina and two-story shopping mall called Convention City. In Convention City, there is a Post Office ATM that will take foreign credit cards. It is in an ATM area near the entrance and has green trim. There is an excellent supermarket in Convention City that takes credit cards but there is a less expensive supermarket just a street behind it. There is also a mobile phone mart in Convention City where a very patient salesperson set my Samsung Galaxy S3 up with a mobile data SIM card. 7 GB a month for Y2000.

At clearance in, we were provided with a map of how to get to the Ministry of Transportation (and Infrastructure) to apply for closed port permissions. It is a long way from the marina and we would take a taxi to get there, then walk and bus it back. Taxi fare was around 1800 yen. It took three days to obtain our approval. A carefully prepared list of ports with the page reference to the Small Craft Guides (now out of print) seemed to be necessary. See various blogs for these references or see an example attached to this report. You may also contact me at jimpatek@gmail.com for further advice

Amami Oshima

This island is approximately 150 NM north of Okinawa and we did an overnight sail from Ginowan to arrive early morning. It is one of the least developed and most beautiful islands in the chain between Okinawa and Kyushu. It is a must visit. There are several attractive anchorages off Kakeroajima, just south of Amami and while regrettably, we did not venture there, I recommend adding them to your closed port list. It will probably be the last place you will anchor in Japan.

Atetsu Bay (28 11.159’N:129 17.238’E)

This beautiful bay should be on every cruiser closed port list, not just because it is a pretty and quiet spot but because it is a typhoon hole and has several very large moorings that were unoccupied during our visit. Two yachts have reported riding out typhoons on the moorings in Atetsu Bay.

Koniya   (28 08.721’N:129 18.600’E)

A small town on the south end of the island. Visiting yachts moor in a small basin constructed for visitors just to the left of the bridge alongside a wall next to a small park. Take a sharp turn in to port if you are entering at low tide. You will see that the inland side of the entrance shoals from sediment coming down the river. There was no charge however we were asked to complete a form. Excellent location but subject to surge from a fishing boat wake. The impact is reduced if you moor well forward. No officials visited the yacht. The town has a good supermarket and shopping district. Several restaurants. Nice quiet place with friendly inhabitants. We rented a car here to do a circumnavigation of this New Zealand like island. For a half day, it was Y4000.

Naze  (28 23.863’N:129 29.797’E)

Naze is the main city on Amami O Shima. We moored up to the wall in the old Naze Port at Nagahama. It is an ideal location, inside the main breakwaters of Naze so very protected and with plenty of space. But it is not right in the center of the city (about a mile away). The basin that is close to the city center was congested with fishing craft and we saw no space. There are no fees to moor but also no special facilities for yachts such as showers. We were eventually visited by officials and required to go through the paperwork routine that was to become very familiar by the time our tour of Japan was completed. There were a number of shopping options close to the port but not much else. Still, a nice place to visit.

Yakushima

Miyanoura (30 25.815’N:130 25.815’E)

There are reasons Yakushima is a World Heritage location and it’s not just for the 3000-year-old cedars that cling to its mountaintops, although that is the official reason. Yakushima is just plain one of the most beautiful and well-kept places on earth. The minute you step away from the concrete of the man-made harbor at Miyanoura, you will be captivated by the stunning beauty of the island. Only a mile or so from the narrow coastal belt, the mountains climb steeply. The impact of civilization seems to take advantage of what nature has provided with total simpatico. It is a special island that anyone would love to call home. We found all of this by walking a hundred meters from our concrete bunker mooring area to the Miyanoura information center where we requested a location to hire a rental car. A few minutes later, with my International Driver’s License, a necessity in Japan, we had a fuel-efficient compact on the road to the Shiratana Unusuikyo to see the ancient cedars.

Once at elevation, it was an easy hike along the stream to the cedars. Following this revitalizing experience, we traveled the coastal road south to enjoy a “box” lunch at the Ambo harbor watching the fishing boats being unloaded with lightning speed and efficiency, their cargo boxed and iced right off the small boats and loaded onto refrigerated trucks. I had wanted to experience a Japanese onsen and Yakushima has a few along the south coast. We picked a spot where the hot water pools are only accessible at low tide and finally found it. Thankfully it was a very informal onsen costing little (Y100) while affording a beautiful location right on the water. There was an elderly man (more so than I) sitting in a pool and he kindly showed me the way. Soon we were in our birthday suits enjoying the soothing warmth of the mineral hot springs. Unlike most onsens in Japan, there was no segregation of the genders and as a result, we males had it all to ourselves, although I am sure a female would have been more than welcome. We will always remember this special place.

Additional notes for cruisers: The waypoint above is the actual location of Let’s Go! on the wall in the small boat harbor. There were already three Japanese yachts here and two more on the way when we arrived. We found a vacant spot along the wall and moored only to be told we must move for a fishing boat. We ended up rafted to a 30 footer for the night. In the morning, four yachts left and we moved to our own location on the wall. It was fairly stressful after a 30-hour passage so be prepared. There is wifi at the Information Center just up the drive from the port. There is also a supermarket close by. There is no cost to moor and there are no officials to ask for paperwork. Miyanora is a lovely town with traditional architecture, narrow streets, friendly people and anything you need. Except one thing. There are no waste facilities. So, don’t expect to leave your trash. Impossible. I asked the folks at the information center and they said, “we take our trash home”. They did not offer to take our home. The disposal of boat trash became a major challenge in Japan.

Kyushu

We sailed from Yakushima to Kyushu via Lo Shima with our first stop being Makurazaki for convenience more than any other reason. We had decided that given our time constraint of trying to reach Kushiro, Hokkaido, by early June that we would follow the path of least resistance and this was along the south coast of Kyushu. For this portion of the cruise, we relied mostly on the submission of Bosun Bird (Noonsite June 30, 2011). Also SSCA Bulletin and www.bosunbird.com). We also had advice from SY Rhapsody who was cruising well ahead of us. Following Bosun Bird’s route, for the most part, meant that we did not explore other places of which there are many considering the numerous islands not far offshore Kyushu.

Makurazaki (31 16.176’N:130 17.348’E)

After bailing on Lo Shima which had been our first choice after leaving Yakushima, we sailed another thirty miles to the mainland of Kyushu arriving in the evening. With twilight lasting longer as we got further north, we had no trouble entering the port of Makurazaki and winding our way through the maze of monumental breakwaters that protect this fairly active fishing port. There were many vacant places along the walls heading into the small boat harbor but, of course, we made our lives difficult by going all the way in as far as water would allow, then turning around and starting to make an active search. And, naturally, it was low tide meaning that to get a line onto a bollard, it would have helped to be a basketball player. But, as luck would have it, a helpful small ferry owner gave us the “O” sign to come alongside the quay under the bow of his boat and we headed on in. (If someone extends their arms in the shape of an “O” above their head, that means whatever act you are doing is “O”K. BUT, if they extend their arms in the form of an X, that means “No, No and NO!). He had “X’d” the spot where we were heading but “O’d the place near his boat.

He and a helpful passerby took our lines as we maneuvered into the rather tight spot. He told us that we had to leave (from that spot) in the morning and “don’t come back”. He had no worries on that score. The docks were not the kind of place to make you linger. Dark and spooky at night and totally deserted. At dawn, however, a hike around the town found it pretty nice. Lots of traditional architecture that is missing on the islands to the south and some people prepared to smile. Just as we were thinking of heading to the next place further up the line, we could hear the chatter of young voices and emerging from down below found a high school art class lining the quay, some of whom had decided to sketch Let’s Go!. So, we hung about taking advantage of the brilliant weather to clean the grunge from below and above decks that you cannot seem to avoid in the small boat harbors where the road or parking lot is just above your decks.

When it came time to finally leave, the children (about fifty of them) lined the quay waving and shouting “See ya”!  giving a final good impression of this place. Additional notes for cruisers: The position above is the actual place along the wall we were moored. Do not go there. There is plenty of room along the wall in front of the long shed. There is even a pontoon that we might have gotten away with using. There is a Post Office ATM just up the hill from the port and to the left toward the river. There are two laundromats and two chandleries close at hand. But, I could not find a supermarket. No showers. No wifi. This is a place to be used only as a necessity. No officials visited the yacht.

Kasasa, Ebisu (31 24.919’N:130 08.040’E).

I was really looking forward to this stop as I had read of the “luxurious onsen” that we would be entitled to upon paying our mooring fee at the pontoon of the 4 Star Ebisu Hotel that dominates the tiny harbor on the left side of its entrance. When we entered, two young men in black trousers, white shirts, and black ties ran down to the pontoon to take our lines. I put on my finest polo shirt and yachting pants and headed into the hotel to check in. The young lady at reception was all smiles and made us feel very welcome. My recollection is that the fee was 2000Y for the yacht and skipper and another 600Y for the crew.

Of course, I asked her about the onsen and she pointed the way. I scampered back to Let’s Go! to get my towel and washcloth and off I went. I asked her how to tell the difference between the men and women’s since I read from Bosun Bird’s account that embarrassing mistakes have been made. She laughed and showed me the way, first to the lockers where you remove and store your footwear, then to the room where you shed your clothing and store it in a basket, followed by the washing area where you cleanse your body before the bath and the communal baths itself, this one looking out to sea over the entrance to the harbor. A far cry from the last onsen by the sea at Yakushima. A long soak followed and some conversation with another gentleman who kindly showed me even more of the nuances of the onsen ritual than I had learned from my first experience.

This stop was the beginning of what were to be many encounters with the Japanese yachting community where English is widely spoken and advice freely given. A Japanese yacht came to join another that was already at the pontoon and we helped them get secure outside the hotel’s sightseeing boat. Three older guys, just like us. Heading in the opposite direction on a holiday. Another sailor who was staying at the hotel, came by to say hello and that he was heading back in his yacht in a week. He asked about C-map for the harbor.

The village, focused on fishing, was quaint, Japanese style. Our farewell from this delightful stopover was made extra special as the three yachtos (as they call themselves in Japan) we had helped moor up, came to their deck and waved their caps in a big circle until we were out of sight. Additional notes for cruisers: The position is for the pontoon of the Ebisu hotel. We were moored on the end of the pontoon with one yacht already on the port side and the hotel boat on the starboard side looking in. The hotel provides free wifi and 100 yen coin-operated showers. 110V power was available as was water. There are two small shops in the village where you can purchase basic supplies. The hotel also has a boating museum. The only tricky bit is finding the entrance and be very careful about the rocks coming around the cape from the south. Give the Kuro Saki obstruction a wide berth. Take the fish farms to starboard. The red (starboard) entrance market is not on the breakwater but is a buoy. Its location on C-Map was accurate (31 25.285N, 130 08.277E). No officials.

Akune (32 01.280’N:130 11.531’E)

We had a fast sail in an SE wind north out of Kasasa. Originally we intended to sail out to Kasasa for Sato Ne on nearby Kamikoshiki but observed that it would be exposed to swell in the conditions we had so, once again, we did the expedient thing and headed along the coast to Akune. Once a major fishing center, Akune is now very quiet with limited services but still fishing industry oriented with a day that starts at 4:30 AM. We moored to a blue pontoon in the fishing harbor where we knew that Rhapsody had moored and was asked to move to the red pontoon which was fine if slightly less protected. There is plenty of wall space in the event the pontoons are full. The GPS coordinates for the red pontoon are the position indicated. You can only moor to the starboard side looking out from the quay.

We struggled to find the real town but in the morning discovered it to be to the right of the fishing harbor across the river. It was a national holiday so hard to judge what was available. There was a mini supermarket just up and to the right of the fishing harbor where some provisions can be obtained. No services other than fuel which can be arranged (with the help of a translator) from the Enos station. Other than that, quite well protected. Easy access. Lots of room. No ambiance. A place to spend the night and move on. (No officials visited the yacht).

Nomo Ko (32 35.015N:129 45.225’E)

We had decided to give the next stop on our list a miss and headed to Nomo Ko, a very well protected natural harbor about 12 miles south of Nagasaki with the idea that we would spend two nights and just chill for a change. And Nomo Ko provided the very best opportunity for that. We had read from the account of the yacht Bosun Bird,  who stopped here in 2010, that they had moored to a pontoon at the end of a quay that separates a small section of harbor to the left from another to the right. The pontoon was still in place and empty. Pontoon mooring beats wall mooring by an order of magnitude. The Golden Week holiday was on so no one took any interest in us. Having had a very sunny and warm trip up and evening in the cockpit, we were surprised by a front that came after dark bringing strong wind, rain, and lightning but by morning, it had passed and the day dawned calm.

I stopped at an office that with, the help of a fisherman, was identified as belonging to the pontoon owner and asked if we might stay another day and to try to determine if we could pay for our berth. They were delighted that we were in Nomo Ko and expected nothing in return. It might be different when summer comes and they are using the pontoons for tourist activity but at this time it was no hardship. This is a delightful stop. A traditional village atmosphere, little homes cheek to jowl on narrow streets that go up, down and everywhere like a Greek village or Moroccan souk. No officials visited the yacht.

Since our visit, the Australian yacht Dot let me know that they had found another mooring option in Nomo Ko and I will quote from their report. “We came across a hotel right on the harbour near the entrance. It has an excellent onsen, looking out towards Gunkunjima, with a large hot pool, a cold pool, and a sauna. Also a recuperation room/ cafe with wifi which looks back over the harbor. They also have a pontoon out the front which we have moved to.” The pontoon they are referring to is inside a small enclosed mooring area on the port side just as you enter the harbor. Dot provided the following waypoint for the pontoon off the hotel/onsen: N 32-35.454′ E 129-45.396 and some additional advice as follows: “A couple of charter boats also use this pontoon, which is double-sided,  so it is important to tie up to the western side.  I’m not too sure who owns it but probably the local council.  This and the pontoon you moored to are good and I would suggest if someone wished to stay a little longer,  that they share their time between the two”.

Nagasaki, Dejima Marina (32 44.643N:129 52.201’E)

We were captivated by Nagasaki and stayed for a week. Our mooring was at the Dejima Marina located in one of the most vibrant areas of the city. This is a small marina with very few berths. Intimate in its proximity to the promenades and parks of the beautiful Nagasaki waterfront. Only foot traffic but not far from the trams that ply the streets of this city that clings to its hills and fills the narrow valley along the water. The population of Nagasaki is a mix of races nationalities and religions and has been for centuries. It was this port that was Japan’s window on the rest of the world. That long acceptance of foreign influences has obviously made its residents much more tolerant. You simply have a feeling of being welcome or at the least not invisible. In that, Nagasaki is unique in my experience. The marina staff of two tried very hard to be as helpful as possible while the resident and visiting “Yachtos” each made visits to Let’s Go! to introduce themselves with great warmth and enthusiasm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Additional notes for cruisers: Marina fees were approximately 25000 yen for one week for a 45 ft vessel. There is excellent wifi that can be received on the marina berth. 110V electricity is available as well as water. There are, however, no showers and the toilets are public at the top of the quay. The marina recently received a negative review on Noonsite.com from a visiting cruiser who suggested giving Dejima a miss. I would say that this would be a serious mistake. We experienced none of the negative aspects reported and quite the opposite found the staff friendly. The government officials who visited the yacht as soon as we were moored were as efficient as any we encountered.

It would be wise to contact the marina by email before your arrival since they can be full on national holiday weeks. Contact information is available on Noonsite http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Japan/Nagasaki.

Uku Marina, Uku Shima, Goto Retto Archipelago (33 15.384N:129 07.741’E)

When we left Nagasaki, we headed over to the Goto Retto Archipelago a little over 40 miles to the northwest of Nagasaki. The Goto Retto is made up of about a dozen major islands and many more small islands that are blessed with inlets, passages, bays and coves that I am sure would take a month or two to adequately explore.

Unfortunately, we had only days and more unfortunately, we would have had to give prior notice of each stop we intended to make and this on the basis of no local knowledge whatsoever. So, we have ended up following the advice of those who have gone before us and have been kind enough to leave breadcrumbs behind in the form of letters to the Seven Seas Cruising Association or blogs that have been collated by an Ocean Cruising Club member and others. Without these, we would not have a clue, but the downside is that you visit the same places and do not break new ground or make a unique contribution to expanding the knowledge of sailing in Japan. The Goto Retto clearly deserves more. I hope that one day, another cruiser will find the time to research and spend time here exploring and filling out the “cruising guide”.

For Let’s Go!, as mentioned previously, we had been following Bosun Bird and in so doing have enjoyed similar experiences. We spent a peaceful night in Narao Ko on the port side (facing the quay) of a very well maintained pontoon (N32 50.806, E129 03.494) as a brisk NW wind blew through. A very quiet but friendly village where the local people seemed genuinely pleased to have us visit. This was obviously a very prosperous fishing center but now is simply a hub for ferries carrying people that live in other parts of the archipelago to and from Nagasaki.

We used calm weather and a flooding tide to travel quickly north to the island of Uku Shima, 25 miles to the north. Along the way, we passed many other bays and small harbors that beckoned. At Taira village on Uku Shima, the northernmost island of the archipelago is the Uku Marina, a very well built and maintained municipal marina, that is to the left of the main fishing/ferry harbor as you enter. It has a backdrop of native vegetation on a steep, rocky cliff face and you are greeted with the smell of jasmine and the sound of a songbird that reminded me of the New Zealand Tui. And…there is no one here! The marina is unattended and you must walk to town and hunt down the person to pay (Y1030).  It took three different people before I found the person that took my money. But, that is Japan.

On the very first day of our arrival in Okinawa, I was told, “you never need to lock your boat up here”. Anyway, this is another incredibly quiet (or as Bosun Bird put it, “dying”) fishing village where people are so thrilled to have you visit that they almost shout out “Konichiwa” and every human interaction is a mixture of laughter, bright eyes, and smiles. (Cruiser Notes: There are about twenty unoccupied berths from 30 to 50 ft. The fingers are not piled so they are a bit wobbly and you could not rely on them in a serious blow as in typhoon.

However, the marina is well protected by a concrete wall and is not affected in the least by ferry traffic. It is an isolated and quiet mooring in a quiet village. The town is about a fifteen-minute hike. You pay your fee at the yellow/orange brick facade three-story building in the center of town. There are three or more markets, fuel at the Enos station. No wifi. Found a place to dump trash at the ferry terminal. Toilets are at the head of the pontoon. No showers. The marina is a great place to hang out and write a book. Just you and the songbirds. Hang about for a week and I expect you would know just about everyone. A very pretty and peaceful stop.

Hirado, Hirado Shima (33 22.281N:129 33.277’E)

After our pleasant day at the most peaceful Uku Marina, we noticed the clouds building and during the night it started to rain and the wind built from the northeast, our intended course for the next day. Our plan was to beat the tide and current gremlins by heading to Hirado via the relatively painless northern route and have the tidal current in our favor the entire way.

We postponed the departure until the rain stopped, and when it did we stuck our head out to find a northeast wind gusting to the upper 20’s so we then took the immediate easy way out and attacked Hirado from the south and after a quick 15 miles or so we found ourselves in the gulf that separates Hirado Shima from the Kyushu mainland with the current and the wind on the nose. We plugged our way to the Hirado Seto, the narrow tidal channel that leads from the Sea of Japan to the aforementioned gulf. With the ebb on, we managed 2 knots over the ground as we passed under the bridge and into the port of Hirado.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had read that we could moor to a pontoon in front of the Information Center but only on the starboard side. When we arrived this side was occupied with two other yachts so we rafted up to the nearest yacht already there. The owner of the yacht let us know that he was quite unhappy about it so I assume that rafting up, while never anyone’s choice, is extremely unwelcome in Japan. Not long after, the person in charge of the Information Center hurried down and said we could moor to the opposite side of the pontoon, thereby avoiding an international incident apparently. Our host never said anything, just showed his hostility. Word of advice. Do not raft up to a Japanese yacht without permission which, based on prior situations, you will never get. So just go ahead if that is the only alternative but at least go through the motions. In our case, the owner was not there to ask!

Having now settled into a much better mooring situation, that side of the pontoon mounted with permanent fenders a meter in diameter, we noticed that the Coastguard had arrived in force. Actually, they arrived slightly before we had tied to the pontoon and watched us, no doubt with pity, work our network of lines until we were satisfied then asked permission to “ask us a few questions”. They came aboard and we had a wonderful time helping them fill in their forms and take photos of everything in sight.  With a “we are finished” and a “have a nice day”, they were gone and we could settle into enjoying this wonderfully well preserved and presented part of Japan. Hirado was the first trading post of the Dutch East India Company before they took over Dejima in Nagasaki from the Portuguese and modern-day Hirado capitalizes on this to create a tourist destination of streets lined with Dutch period homes with shops interspersed with traditional Japanese homes. Christian churches along with magnificent Buddhist temples dot the hillsides.

The history is, of course, real and Hirado has done a wonderful job of recreating it in a very real fashion along with many of the preserved buildings and foundations. It is a lovely town with a terrific feeling. The people that call Hirado home are happy and friendly and it has been a wonderful stop. Additional notes for cruisers: Our position on the port side of the pontoon, inside the harbor from the ferry berth, is 33 22.281N, 129 33.277E. Suspect that normally you will be required to stay on the starboard side, facing the information center. There is wifi available in the Information Center where you will check in upon arrival and complete a basic information form. No charge. Trash can be left for 100Y. We had fuel delivered from the petrol station you can see to the left of the pontoon. I learned that you must be pretty exact in your request to the delivery truck. If you say 200 liters, that is what he will bring. In May 2015, diesel cost 129 yen per liter.

There are a few supermarkets that are well stocked and a convenience store near the information center. There are clean toilets in the information center which is open from 9 until 5 every day. Quite secure berth with some ferry wash. A really nice place deserving of more than a day.

Marinoa Marina, Fukuoka (33 35.883’N:130 19.428’E)

Fukuoka was an easy day trip from Hirado and our last stop on Kyushu.

There are two marinas in Fukuoka where both Japanese and foreign cruisers are welcome. These are Fukuoka City Marina or “Odo” and Marinoa. We chose Marinoa because it has a better reputation for protection in the event of bad weather, particularly anything with strong NW winds. We noticed that Japanese sailors prefer it to Odo for that reason. In addition, Marinoa boat yard has an excellent reputation. As long as you stay less than ten days, there is no cost advantage either way. However, for longer stays, there is no question that Odo is the more cost-effective option. Monthly, Odo will cost roughly 50,000 yen while Marinoa will cost 120,000 yen. Daily rates are similar. Marinoa has excellent wifi and comfortable surroundings in their office for computer work or reading. There are several showers so you never have to wait, however, they turn the hot water off at night.

There are several reasonably priced restaurants a few minutes’ walk and even outlet stores (not to mention McDonald’s, Starbucks and Baskin Robbins). We notified the marina by email (front@marinoa.co.jp) that we would be arriving and they took the time to respond. When we arrived, no one came out to show us where to berth so we moored in front of the office (the baby blue building) where the fuel berth is (140 yen per liter but no need to jerry can).

After checking in and paying in advance for the period of time that we thought we would stay, they directed us to moor further out on the same pontoon. I protested that the berth was exposed to wind and swell that would blow through the entrance given the typhoon that was then expected and they allowed us to moor along a pontoon near the travel lift. This was much more secure and better maintained and it is where we stayed while my wife and I traveled to Kyoto by train. It is about a twenty-minute walk to the main subway station at Meinohama (no difference from Odo) and it is a fifteen-minute walk to the supermarket (less than ten from Odo). Marinoa is well maintained with the exception of the visitors pontoon which has missing rubber coamings along the edges of the pontoon, some dangling into the water, and some of the deckings is suffering from dry rot and needs to be replaced. This gives the marina a shabby first impression but otherwise, it is a fine place to moor for a short stay. The staff are friendly and helpful but since this is a marina that is not frequented by foreigners, English is not spoken. We left a day before we had planned to and the marina cheerfully refunded a day’s mooring fee much to my pleasant surprise. Interestingly, no officials visited the yacht for the nearly two weeks we were in Fukuoka.

For cruisers seeking permission from the Ministry of Land,Transport and Infrastructure to stop at closed ports either on the west coast of Honshu (our path) or within the Inland Sea, take the subway to Hakata (the main rail hub) from Meinohama, take the east exit from the terminal, walk over to the Hakata Miyako hotel keeping it on your right. You then walk about 200 meters along the slightly curving road to the Fukuoka Prefecture Government building (gray, the first of two government buildings you come to). Enter and ask security for the Ministry of Land and you will be directed to floor 8. Upon exiting the lift, the maritime division is on the left. The folks I dealt with were friendly and efficient and as it turned out, the same folks that sent permission down to Okinawa for our sail up to Fukuoka from there. We had time on our hands so I cannot comment on how quickly they could respond if you are in a hurry. One note: Watch out for Golden Week national holidays. Little gets done during this time as many Government offices virtually close. This year that was from April 29 through the first week in May.

From Fukuoka, we planned to cover ground quickly so that we would arrive in Kushiro, our clearance out port, on Hokkaido in early June and it was already late May.

Saigo, Oki-no-Shima, Sea of Japan (36 12.102’N:133 19.691’E)

An overnight sail with an extraordinary amount of shipping to be aware of, we arrived at Saigo in the early morning.

I want to give every place we go the benefit of the doubt, give it a chance to show why it should be on every cruiser’s list, and I have to say that as I walked the quiet streets of Saigo Port on the island of Oki-no-Shima, I enjoyed the ambiance and the history. The canals, streams, and rivers where small fishing boats lie and houses hang over the edge reminded me of the Thai khlongs in Bangkok. But, it was Sunday in Saigo and nothing was open, not even the petrol station. However, that did not stop the Coastguard, Customs, and Police from descending on Let’s Go! shortly after our arrival. I am sure that if you spent more time, rented a car to see the island and it was at least Monday, Saigo might prove to be an amazing destination. But, we did not have the time to investigate. Cruiser Notes: Our location at N36 12.099′ and E133 19.693′ on a low fixed concrete wharf perpendicular to the main wharf is not recommended by the Coastguard (I think because they could not keep an eye on us). They said that we should have moored to a wall near their wharf at N36 deg 12.284′ and E133 deg 20.142′. We were using the SCG H-805W page 58 to point us to our location. I inspected the wharf recommended by the Coastguard that is apparently reserved for visitors. It is next to the ferry terminal and looks to be an excellent location much closer to shops and restaurants but with largely fixed tire fenders that you will have to use a fender board against. I suspect it is subject to surge and fishing boat wake. No toilets except in the ferry terminal, no wifi, no showers. No charges.

Ogi, Sado Shima

Two days of motor sailing and dodging fishing craft took us to Ogi.

Once, like so many other places we have visited in coastal Japan, a busy fishing village, it is now trying to survive through tourism and doing a very good job as far as we could see. We were welcomed here by a tourist boat skipper who took our lines. Our next visitor was the head of the tourist information center who arranged for a fuel delivery and informed us on things relevant to cruisers. They had bicycles for rent (expensive) but for a convenient way to get about town and see the surrounding countryside, they could not be beaten.

We meant to leave after one day but a late night check of the forecast suggested it would be better to wait a day. From Ogi, we head north and will keep going until we reach the final stop in Japan unless the weather dictates otherwise. Additional notes for cruisers. Our location at N37 deg 48.723′ and E138 deg 16.829′ is along a low quay behind a tourist launch that did not move during our stay. There is little tide so you can walk on and off the boat easily. If this is not available, tie up to the low quay to the far left of our location where you see a few yachts in cradles on the quay.

This wharf is exposed to northerly winds so have many fenders deployed. There are no charges. We were visited by the Coast Guard and Customs for the normal paperwork and Q&A. The Customs officer took our trash which was a nice gesture and he oversaw fuel delivery so that we could get a “duty-free” price. There are toilets nearby and water available at a tap on the quay where the yachts are being stored. There are no showers. There is free and good wifi at the tourist information center and this is available 24 hours at a bench outside the office. There are two small supermarkets within a ten-minute walk. There is a park on top of a volcanic plug above the harbor with a nice waterfront and bush walk. A very pretty, peaceful and friendly place.

Kushiro, Hokkaido (42 58.892’N:144 23.042’E)

The position above is where Let’s Go! was moored in front of the MOO Building (you will see the big blue letters MOO at the top of this building)on the left upriver from the harbor entrance. This is the location dedicated for visiting yachts   Before our lines were secure, two uniformed Customs officers were peering down awaiting permission to come aboard and commence the paperwork dance. In addition to checking our papers, they issued us our outbound clearance for Dutch Harbor. However, it was still necessary to clear with Immigration before leaving and this can only be done on the day you depart but it does not take long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kushiro is a good location from which to depart Japan with an excellent supermarket a short distance from the MOO Building. The management of the MOO Building are very interested in being helpful to cruisers and speak good English. There are several friendly locals who will help with fuel delivery with your jerry cans. We borrowed a small trolley from another yacht and walked to a nearby service station to fill ours. There is a large DIY store where we purchased items we thought we might need for the next part of the journey. However, this is not within walking distance. There are wifi and toilet facilities in the MOO building and several dining establishments. An expensive but first class onsen is available in a hotel near the quay.

We waited out one low in Kushiro before we left for the Aleutians. The swell that developed created a great deal of surge that could have been damaging to yachts (we had minor damage to a lifeline fitting after our fender board fell below the rubber fenders along the quay)  so make sure you have ample fenders, a fender board, and long lines to compensate for the tide.

Be prepared for damp and chilly weather. The locals say “that in Kushiro, there is winter and August”.

Report from Jim Patek

SV “Let’s Go!”

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Below is a list of the closed ports used by SV Lets Go between 16th April and 21st May 2015

Closed Port List Ginowan Marina Okinawa to Fukuoka, Kyushu

Download list here

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APPLICATION FOR CLOSED PORT ENTRY

SEA OF JAPAN and HONSHU

PERIOD MAY 22 TO JUNE 22

SCG Page

Port

Guide No.

Page

Arrive

Depart

Oshima

808

36

24-May

25-May

Ezaki port

805

39

29-May

30-May

Yunotso port

41A

29-May

31-May

Sagiura port

44B

31-May

1-Jun

Utsupuriu port

45

2-Jun

3-Jun

Shichrui port

47

3-Jun

4-Jun

Nishinoshima Urago

59B

4-Jun

5-Jun

Okinoshima Dogo

58

5-Jun

8-Jun

Tottori port

62

8-Jun

9-Jun

Ine Port

71

10-Jun

11-Jun

Echizen fishing port

81A

11-Jun

12-Jun

Waijima

92

12-Jun

13-Jun

Sadoshima Ryotsu

120

13-Jun

14-Jun

Sadoshima Ogi

121

14-Jun

15-Jun

Awashima

124A

15-Jun

16-Jun

Akita Marina

135

16-Jun

19-Jun

Oga Marina

136

19-Jun

20-Jun

Fukaura

138B

20-Jun

21-Jun

Kodomari

141

21-Jun

22-Jun