“Wai-O-Tira” was required to stop in Israel to pick up ENC cards, sent from the UK to Tel Aviv where we had a friendly contact. It was a mistake to send it by Registered Mail, as it cannot be traced once it is overseas, and it can take up to a month to be delivered. DHL and other couriers can deliver packages promptly in a matter of days, saving mooring fees.

Security around Israel is pervasive and onerous. With our AIS we were easily identified.

Clearance

We completed the requisite IMOT document two months before our arrival. The document is mostly in Hebrew and poorly laid out, but it sufficed.

We chose Haifa as it is the largest port in Israel, with a secure marina (Shavit Marina) to the south. We were escorted to the marina by Port Security. The designated dock for clearance (a concrete pen) is a concrete dock set up for a small travel-lift and is a bit awkward to enter. Several officials watched as we fended off the concrete corners and secured our vessel. They inspected our vessel and asked many questions, some personal.

Our clearances were amiably handled by Shavit Marina for a modest fee. When clearing out, the marina arranged for this to be done from our berth without having to re-enter the concrete pen. Clearing out is arranged after payment of dues, and is relatively swift with no paperwork presented for our next port.

Shavit Marina

The Shavit Marina in Kishon Harbour is quite congested with local vessels. Power and good water are available with stern-to moorings to the berths. There is a fair bit of pollution in the area due to the Kishon Creek bringing effluent from upstream. The shower block is clean with good hot showers, and the management and staff are keen to assist their guests.

The downside was the distance from the marina to Haifa and shops, and the taxis are not cheap. However the locals are friendly and obliging, and we were helped out several times getting around.

The fees for our vessel were reasonable for our two-week visit.

Unfortunately, there are no laundry facilities, so this was done piecemeal on board.

Yacht services

Close by there are a couple of marine stores, quite well stocked with necessities. One of these, Fishell, could have reprogrammed our C-Map NT ENC cards at a reasonable cost, and offer electronics services. There are also a metal fabrication workshop and outboard motor servicing in the complex.

Attractions

Acre (or Acco) is an ancient port and fortress just to the North and worth a visit.

The Ba’hai faith originated in the area, and their temple and gardens in Haifa are a testament to this benign Islamic faith.

Further afield there are railway stations offering frequent, fast and quite cheap fares to Tel Aviv and other main centers in Israel, although the scenery is diminished somewhat by the dusty, dirty windows of the carriages.

Departure

After clearing out, we left the port confines and set sail for Cyprus.

Several miles out an Israeli gun-boat swooped across our bows and ordered us to head West. This did not suit our angle of sail, and they persisted in rocking us around in their wash until I had furled sails and changed course. They escorted us to the 12 nm international limit before turning away, which we regarded as quite an unnecessary belligerence.

This did not detract from the pleasures of our brief stay; the history of the sites we visited and the warmth and cheerfulness of the people of Israel.

Robert Burn

SY “Wai-O-Tira”

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