We arrived in Bundaberg, Queensland (Eastern Australia) aboard our Oyster 406, Zoonie, in October 2019.  To continue on with our circumnavigation from the UK, we decided to follow the suggestion of friends in New Zealand to pass the Australian landmass to the south and go across the Great Australian Bight.

On leaving Tasmania we had passed one of the five southern-most capes in the world, SE Cape, Tasmania, at 43’38.3 S. It is in fact the third most southerly cape with just South Cape, NZ and Cape Horn, both of which we won’t round, further south. Another two of the five are Cape Leeuwin, SW Australia and then Cape Agulhas off South Africa, for the rounding in January next year.

Strategy for crossing The Bight:

During the summer months from November to May, while cyclones bare down on the northern latitudes of Australia and cause havoc from the south west Pacific Islands to the west coast of Australia, it is possible to ride the winds on top of a High Pressure System passing eastwards to the south of the Australian Bight and make that progress west in relative safety.

As these winds reach the barrier of the vertical cliffs around the northern Bight off the Nullabor they strengthen, so it is a good idea to leave from somewhere up the eastern side like Streaky Bay or Ceduna and go straight across to the Recherche Archipelago (east of Esperance), so that is what we did.

In Ceduna ample depth and a sandy bottom can be found at the outer end and to the right of the long old jetty because it was dredged back in the day for the trading ships. Kylie Blackham on 0427 252385 helps run the busy Sailing Club and is a friendly contact.

Crossing the Bight we had maximum winds of 18 knots and sailed for 80% of the time, 76 hours, even managing to fly the cruising chute for 50 miles. The winds stayed east of South and North right the way across.

Two High pressure systems were squeezing together ahead of us near the archipelago. We were gauging our speed so as to not arrive on this complex archipelago in the dark, even though we knew the squash zone of the two Highs would bring a wind increase, as it happened to 33 knots briefly.

The only thing we would do differently another time would be to carry a fishermen’s/Admiralty anchor so we could stop in the Recherche Islands where the seabed is thick weed. 

Esperance:

Instead we picked up a substantial mooring buoy at Woody Island, offshore from Esperance, and explored for a few days. The Department of Transport Marina staff at Esperance are strict adherents to the Electrical and Gas Certificate requirements, so we suggest [to avoid an unpleasant brush with bureaucracy and possibly being sent back out into high winds as happened to friends of ours], proceeding to Albany Marina instead. (Contact; Tegan on 08 92168205).

Albany:

We arrived in Albany, South Western Australia on the 24th February having departed from Ceduna on the 12th.

On the recommendation of local professional sailor Mark McRae of southernoceansailing.com.au, (0428429911), we hauled Zoonie onto the hard at Emu Point Slipway Services run by Darren and Linda Russell (0427 426272) where we found ourselves in a sheltered yard knowing Zoonie would be safe from the strong winds on the west coast and at a price we could afford.

Opposite the boatyard and across the channel within Oyster Harbour are three free and substantial red mooring buoys (up to 18 tons and 40 knots of wind); a heavenly and sheltered spot.

Our intention to return home for four months being thwarted by Covid-19, we have been in WA now for over six months and are ready to set off across the Indian Ocean in a few days’ time. Jobs we have had to deal with have included sending our life-raft off for a service to the Ocean Safety Agents, Taylor Marine in Mt Gambier, South Australia via their Henderson, Fremantle Office (08 9494 9393) and they were prompt and efficient in completing the service.

Fremantle:

We are now at Fremantle Sailing Club where the first five days stay is free of charge and the life-raft has already been delivered to us. The Harbour Master, Jason Hands has been a helpful and friendly contact and the club can be reached on 08 9435 8800.

Conclusion:

We have found the southerly route around this amazing country to have been a sheer pleasure, both in the people we have met and the conducive sailing weather; waiting for a favourable High Pressure system to pass to the south of the Bight worked for us.

Barb and Rob White
SY Zoonie (UK)
http://blog.mailasail.com/zoonie

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Related Reports:

• Indian Ocean Voyage Part 2:  Fremantle, Australia to La Reunion
• Indian Ocean Voyage Part 3:  La Reunion to South Africa
  
• Indian Ocean Voyage Part 4: Cruising South African Waters
  
• Australia, WA, Albany: Covid19 Field Report (May 2020)
• Tasmania: Covid19 Field Report (April 2020)

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.