Although we never saw another yacht whilst cruising Greenland, the locals would always tell us of another that had recently been there. Greenland will become a more important cruising destination now that ice has become less of an issue.

NARSAQ

Location: 60 deg 54’ 44” N 46 deg 2’ 55” W

Population 1613

Used as Port of Entry for Greenland coming from Southeast Labrador. Selected on basis that we would find suitable dockage at the commercial docks for our 14 m vessel and that there would be protection from winds in any quarter. We were not disappointed.

Inside the L shaped, but rather small commercial pier, there is complete protection. Anchorage outside would be feasible. The downside is a 25 NM motor up the Skovfiord from the sea but this adds to the protection. There are numerous bergy bits and small icebergs to contend with on the trip up from the Davis Strait and the harbor area itself is crowded with bergy bits from glaciers calving nearby. In the event that one had to anchor outside the commercial boat harbor, these bergy bits could be a problem, especially if the wind got up.

Ice Central was contacted in advance on Iridium (see contact details in RCC Pilotage Foundation Faroe, Iceland, Greenland guide) to determine conditions.

There are two supermarkets with excellent quality provisions and fuel is available at a floating dock just outside the commercial dock.

The local police office cleared us into Greenland by stamping our passports. That was the only formality since there are no customs or immigration officials in Narsaq. There were no charges of any kind including dockage.

Internet was available at the very helpful tourist information center.

There were no laundry facilities other than machines at a hostel followed by air drying which was not feasible in the conditions of intermittent rain and fog we encountered.

QAQORTOQ

Location: 60 deg 43’20” N 46 deg 02’20”N

Population 3306

With double the population of Narsaq, Qaqortoq is reported to be the most populous town in southern Greenland and the fourth largest in all of Greenland. While exposed to the south, there was little ice in the passage leading to the harbor so the approach was straightforward. We came via an inside passage from Narsaq referred to in the cruising guide.

We did have difficulty finding a suitable berth at the commercial dock until the Arctic Line container ship moved out and we were able to lie alongside the eastern leg of the quay as close to the main road as water depth would allow and directly across the road from the tourist information center. Prior to this we used a place on the western side reserved for the police vessel and when it returned, rafted next to two Danish patrol vessels. It is very clear that this harbor would be of no use to a yacht if the wind is blowing freshly from the south. At the time we were there, we experienced only light winds from the southwest. There was no charge for the use of the dockage.

Qaqortoq has four supermarkets with everything a cruiser needs including alcohol. The Seaman’s Home provides showers (at a healthy charge), laundry and inexpensive meals. There is also a floating fuel dock.

NANORTALIK

Location: 60 deg 8’30” N 45 deg 14’36” W

Population 1448

Nanortalik is the last substantial town on the way south along Greenland’s west coast before reaching the fiords and channels of the Prins Christian Sund area directly north of Cape Farewell (Kap Farvel). The coastal waters between Qarqotoq and Nanortalik were thick with large icebergs and bergy bits with enough current to move them rapidly. Vigilance was required given the intermittent thick fog.

We berthed on the northwest side of a small quay opposite the commercial docking facilities used by the Arctic Line container vessel. It can be identified by an attached floating dock used to bring cruise ship passengers ashore and a large open parking lot shoreward. There is a floating fuel dock about 200 meters further into the harbor. The quay where we berthed would be quite exposed in winds from south through east but once again, there was little wind.

There was a well stocked supermarket directly opposite the quay where the vessel was moored. About 100 meters north along the road behind the vessel was a tourist information center whose owner was extremely helpful with local knowledge regarding weather and current conditions. Fuel was available within carrying distance.

AUGPILAGTOQ

Location: 60 deg 9’ N 44 deg 17’05” W

Population 132

Augpilagtoq is a small fishing and hunting village within the Prins Christian Sund fiord and channel complex about 20 NM from the entrance on the southwestern Greenland shore and 38 NM from the east coast entrance to Prins Christian Sund.

Its quay is visible as you come through the narrow entrance to the harbor and only the east side is suitable for mooring a yacht due to tidal range. We tied up at first along the southern face of the quay but the local people moved their fishing craft to accommodate us on the eastern side. A small local ferry rafted to us later to unload passengers arriving from Nanortalik.

There is a small market in Augpilagtoq with limited supplies. Showers and laundry are available. There were no re fueling facilities.

ANCHORAGES

The RCC Pilotage Foundation guide describes anchorages and those that we sampled were well protected.

After leaving Augpilagtoq for the Prins Christian Sund we ran into near gale wind blowing down the sound from the east along with an opposing current of 1.5 knots. We sought temporary shelter under Niaqomaq point in 12 m water depth, excellent holding in mud (and kelp). Lat 60 deg 09.871 min N, 44 deg 06.564 W.

For navigation we relied on C-Map NT but the scale of the charts was such that they were useful to put you in the correct vicinity but eyeball navigation ruled the day when close in. Radar was indispensible given the fog that was prevalent along the southwest coast.

Jim Patek

S/V Let’s Go!