The following comments are from sailors who have recently cruised in Greece and contributed to a survey run in co-operation with Segeln magazine, about Mediterranean cruising recommendations.

Ionian Islands

If you are in the southern Ionian call at the island of Meganisi and visit Spartahori (the village)/Porto Spiglia (local name for the bay) in the north. It is exposed in Northerlies but perfectly sheltered from southerlies. The village quay is tucked in on the NW side and hence gets shelter from the northerlies, and from any swell that they can bring. Jerry and Steve’s taverna is in the SE corner and is relatively well sheltered from the swells partially because of a floating breakwater. Jerry and Steve will assist you with lazy lines – so all very easy. Perfect for swimming and there’s a great taverna, and if you walk up to the top of the hill you will find a beautiful little village, with the best pizza, and a view over the Ionian that beats all! There are some taverna pontoons on the Western side which can suffer from swells coming in through the entrance to the bay with a northerly wind. If you use them I suggest making sure that moor with your bows towards the entrance (I have had several very bumpy nights moored on those pontoons).

For the less experienced the Ionian Sea is ideal. The “honeypot” to visit is Fiscardo but early arrival is essential. Vathi on Ithaca is a fine large bay and has many restaurants. Nearer Corfu is the island of Paxos. It has 2 lovely harbours in Gaios and Lakka.

Levkas; excellent for wintering; fairly large liveaboard community.

Kioni on the Island of Ithaka. A perfect place to relax after a nice sailing day in the Ionian Sea. Usually, the wind drops in the summer season after the sunset, and you will have a quiet night either in the small harbour or outside the bay anchoring. Sometimes a swell of ferry boats passing the island is coming into the harbour but doesn’t disturb. Along the harbour there are several nice restaurants, serving typical Greece dishes at low prices. All the places in the restaurants are situated directly at the waterside. Absolutely romantic and perfect!

Ormos Athenerios on Meganisi (SE of Lefkada, south of Skorpias (Onassis’ private island). In this bay, you will find the family Restaurant of Jimmy and Spiros, two Greek brothers running a beautiful restaurant a few meters above their own dock, capable of offering a place for about 10 yachts. It’s also possible to anchor in the bay. Sometimes there are flotillas in the bay, but there’s always a table for sailors.

Sheltered anchorages/harbours (Ionian islands): Sarakiniko bay (island Ithaca), Spartakhori (island Meganisi), Fiskardo, Agia Euphemia, Argostoli (island Kefalonia), Agios Nikolaos (island Zakhintos).

Visit Parga and anchor on the beach near the old jetty. The unique beach falls away in depth from 1-2 ft to 2-3 meters at about 10ft out from shore, allowing you to literally beach the bow of the yacht while your keel stays in 2-3 meters of water. The picturesque town is beautifully set into the hillside and has great restaurants and bars. Visit Lakka on the island of Paxos. Beautiful turquoise water to anchor in with good shelter. Visit George and his tavern on Kalamos. Visit Fiscardo on Cephalonia for boutique bars and restaurants and Kioni on Ithaca for the traditional alternative. Visit Spartakhori on Meganissi and walk up to the town overlooking the inner sea.

Anchor in Kapsali (on Kithera) in February and you will have this gorgeous harbour to yourself. In fact the whole island with only the friendly locals.

Cyclades

Mikonos: Great marina, freshly renovated, party island, great spot to sail in the Cyclades.

Eating out: I recommend Alex taverna on Mykonos island. There are delicious chops and Greek home wine. Nice anchorages: Dokos isle, Sounio point, Moni isle.

For the more experienced sailors, the Cyclades offer quite a number of islands with short distances in between. In July/August the Meltemi (an NW wind) blows about force 6/7.

We took a 2-week flotilla out of Alimos (Athens) heralded as an archaeological/historical voyage. Being unfamiliar with the language, history, sailing and weather characteristics of the Cyclades we highly recommend the flotilla approach. The chaos of med mooring in Hydra and experiencing the Meltemi and touring the vineyards of Santorini would have gone from fun and exciting to terrifying without local support. We were surprised by the dearth of fish both on the plates of restaurants and in the crystal clear water. Otherwise, the food was simple and not all we had hoped for. The Cyclades is a dramatically beautiful circle of dry islands with each having a personal drama from the civilization-ending volcano of Santorini to the civilization illuminating remains on Delos. Best experienced in the cusps of summer the area can be very crowded during European vacation periods. The Meltemi is a voyage stopping seasonal northerly not to be underestimated. It can even knock out the ferries.

Best island to visit in the Cyclades is Folegandros. There is a fairly protected anchorage on the east side of the island called Karavostasis. You must take the bus up to the main town. Superb view (only second best to Santorini) and great little streets without cars and tons of good restaurants.

Island of Kythnos: Loutra Marina (in the northeast). Good harbour … the one and only harbour of the Cyclades with a harbour master. Nice place to stay, hot springs and very good seafood.

Harbour of Loutra, Kythnos, Cyclades: This is a safe harbour. They have a harbour master who advises boats for landing to avoid anchor salad and looking for enough space. In the bay, there are some good restaurants offering calamari stuffed with cheese and goat. On the end of the bay down to the beach, there is a simple stone pool formed by rocks, size like a bathtub. This tub has a mix of seawater and a hot thermal spring. It is a really nice place to relax in the morning or in the evening after a sailing trip.

Visit Loutra on the east side of Kythnos and sandbar bay (Kolona) on the west side of Kythnos.

In the Cyclades, it would be a shame to miss Milos. There is a tiny harbour with a little taverna. The island has no water of its own and is beautiful beyond belief. This is what is meant by the “Greek Islands.

Southern Cyclades – Island of Levitha, south coast, anchorage in a natural harbour. This island has no ferry connection and therefore no tourists. You only can get there by your own yacht. There is just one family living on the island in Summer. They do some farming and fishing and run a little taverna where one can have a nice dinner, real Greek cooking, very nice people. From the harbour to the taverna it takes a fifteen-minute walk north-west uphill. The silence on this remote island and the darkness of the night (no electric lights around) is amazing. Just a place on the way to heaven! Please don’t go there if you can’t live without a ghetto-blaster!

The western side of the Cyclades: Kythnos (very nice chora, the white village on top of the hill). Serifos (nice little harbour for a quiet anchorage): again a visit to the chora is perfect for pictures of many churches, and good tavernas. Milos: great to spend a couple of days: visiting the kastro, sunset on the ancient volcano hole is very nice, almost like Santorini, and the southern coast with these amazing huge cliffs and stacks, arrive before the daily charters! Anchor and line on the rocks if you can. Kimolos surprised us. No village at the anchorage but a white Caribbean-style beach. Great water and good protection from the wind. Sifnos: very private bays (ay.Georgios and Fikiadha: no boats, easy anchorage and clear water), and nice little village with tavernas and services to reach the chora and other villages are Vathi (good anchorage in front of the beach or small public dock). Folegandros: maybe the most genuine village, but docking is not easy. Busy dock and gusts in the bay.

Visit Poros on the island of Poros for Venice-like cruise past the town promenade.

Peloponnese

Elafonissos, on the very southern tip of the Peloponnese, is a great anchorage, safe in all weather directions, and very desolate and free from charter yachts.

Good harbours: Ermoupolis-Syros isle; Ermioni- Peloponnese; Monemvasia-Peloponnese.

Eastern Sporades

Lesbos: fantastic island, lots to explore, good anchorages right around the island, especially the two large inlets to the south. Mytilene has a large new public marina, well organized, secure, underutilised and away from any noise but local Greek yachts. Use the main harbour which is much more central and half the price. The harbour is totally secure and places are allocated by the Harbour Master.

The marina at Pythgoria, Samos is now fully operational with a great restaurant and supermarket and low charges for yachts.

Saronic Gulf

Great for families with children: Moni – a little isle near Aegina island with wild animals: deers, goats and peacocks.

Saving money (discounts, cheap shopping opportunities etc): Adrianou street, Athens.

Plaka, Leonidion. Super berthing for 15-20 yachts behind a molo. Nice eating out in 3 restaurants. In addition to this, there’s a supermarket and a hotel in Plaka. It’s definitely romantic to spend some hours on top of the mole with friends…

The bay on the north side of the island of Spetses. Moor in a safe bay with anchor and a rope ashore. One taverna in the bay for lunch and dinner.

North Aegean

Fournoi Islands: These are superb, with lots of small bays and anchorages. The twin bays of Kampi, recognizable by the windmills on the ridge. The northern bay has concrete posts for stern lines ashore and is totally sheltered in all conditions. There is no charge but you need to launch the dinghy to get ashore. There is a friendly family beach with a small bar and taverna. 100 steps take you over the ridge into the town of Fournoi for provisions and tavernas.

Visit the Diaporos islands in the Chalkidiki peninsula for quiet anchorages, clear water and gentle winds in the Meltemi season in the Aegean.

The island of Thassos is worth a visit. Tie alongside the harbour wall and explore the beautiful island by bus.

Crete

I would recommend Ireapretra Southern Crete as a stopover. You don’t have to use the harbour in September/October but can tie up alongside the pier. There are plenty of good restaurants, ice cold lager and places of local interest. I found the locals to be very friendly and hospitable in the true Greek fashion. Excellent swimming/ snorkelling opportunities off the beaches. All banking and cash point services available in the town with plenty of quality shops also.

General Greece

If you really like sailing Greece (and Turkey) is the only area in the Med where you may find good steady winds. Make sure you go East on the south side of the Cyclades and come back West on the Northen side going up the Turkish coast as much as you can and then cross to the Northern Sporades. I am not particularly fond of the more touristic islands like Mikonos and Santorini (Thyra) where anchorages are poor, but certainly love places like Milos and Astipalia where you may find a safe and quiet anchorage and a lot of tradition. On the Ionian side of Greece one of the most attractive anchorages are Ithaca and Cephalonia. Food is basically always the same but, if you like some of their specialities, Greek tavernas are friendly and cheap. Throughout the Med, for a sailing yacht, Greece is the area worth sailing in. Have good wind and enjoy!