We checked into the Galapagos in April 2008. We arrived from Panama with a zarpe for Samoa and checked in at Wreck Bay (Puerto Baquerizo Moreno) on Isla San Cristobal. Although yachts had recently been allowed to check in without agents, we were not allowed to do so unless we only wanted to stay for 24 hours, which we were told would be free. We went to Carmela Romero and paid a fee of $100 for the agency plus various official charges totalling $101 for our six-ton boat. This did include $30 in immigration charges. We were told we would be allowed to stay for up to 20 days. We were not required to buy park passes or pay for “fumigation” or “emergency” or other dubious charges. Land tours are available without park passes, but they will be required for dive trips or excursions to other islands. There is fair provisioning with staples and quite a good selection of fresh produce available. Diesel is $1.02 per gallon plus a $3 round trip taxi (pickup truck) ride to the gasolinera, with your jugs. The town is small, picturesque, pleasant and friendly, with a very laid back ambience. The anchorage is good in prevailing conditions, with plenty of space, good holding and clean water. Leave your dinghy aboard and take the water taxis for fifty cents per person. There is a fair marine hardware store. There are several Internet cafes where notebook computers can be connected. Restaurants are good and inexpensive. We have been quite happy with our visit to San Cristobal, and believe it may be the best value available for visiting the Galapagos.

Randy Baker