As we reached the protection of this large atoll, we met about a dozen one-man outrigger canoes out in the ocean trolling for fish. The perfectly formed atoll encloses a large lagoon with a narrow opening to the ocean. The pass can be easily located on the west side of the lagoon, but one can only enter at slack as at all other times a fierce current sweeps through the narrow passage. The locals call it the river, as indeed the water rushes out at over 6 knots. We timed our arrival with the moon meridian passage and must have done something right because we did arrive at slack water. A countercurrent may be found on the south (right-hand) side, and this should be followed into the anchorage off the nearest village. Suddenly one is back in the South Pacific as I knew it quarter of a century ago! The island is neat and tidy, and every house is made of local materials.

Even if one had called first at Christmas, formalities must be completed at the police station and at customs, both of which are close to the anchorage. The resident customs officer is very strict and will not allow anything to be landed without his permission, although we did break the law and gave some T-shirts to some local friends, which he strongly objected to. The islanders are extremely welcoming and it is a pleasure to just walk through the neat villages, or cycle (we borrowed cycles from the policeman and customs officer) along the west side of the atoll made up of several smaller islands linked by bridges or causeways. The store has some basic supplies, and a local woman will bake bread on demand.