In Sept 2006 Jacana arrived at Nacala, Mozambique en route from Thailand to South Africa. We had been warned often about corrupt officials in Mozambique.

We are delighted to report that to the contrary the bulk of officials were friendly, honest, efficient and most welcoming.

Mozambique can be proud of its Immigration people in particular. At all our ports of call (Nacala, Ilha Mozambique, Inhambane and Maputo) the scrupulously honest approach of the immigration people stood out.

These days, Mozambique stamps your passport and then issues embarkation cards or shore passes to yachts in transit, instead of issuing visas. This is now standard practice up and down the coast. Things have changed since Delwyn McPhun wrote his fine cruising guide in the ’90s.

This shore passes usually have a limit of 30 days, but we had no trouble extending them. It is important to get an extension before the expiry date.

Some of the Port Captains were not up to the standard of their brothers and sisters in Immigration and tried to inflate port clearance fees. If you insisted on an official receipt and said that the price was unacceptable etc, then the price quickly came down. Other port captains (like in Maputo) were honest, experienced and professional.

Based on our experience yachts should have no fears about clearing into and out of Mozambique.

If you go to Nacala the port area itself is notorious for theft, however, there is a way to avoid this problem.

Sarah and Arthur from Bay Diving, Fim do Mundo lodge are keen to help yachties and expand their business. As you swing south into the main bay where the port of Nacala is situated, you will see a very protected bay to starboard. Bay Diving intend to lay moorings here for visiting yachts. We anchored in this bay for a week and could not believe the variety of seafood bought to us by locals wishing to trade. They are desperate for shorts, t-shirts and rice.

Almost opposite in the main bay, Fim do Mundo lodge is situated on your port side heading south, at about 14 29S and 40 44.7E. Their show is on a mooring out the front of their grass-roofed bungalows. They are most keen to facilitate yachty’s needs.

They are mentioned favourably in Lonely Planet. It is probably best to contact them by email in advance. fimdomundo@teledata.mz

We journeyed down the coast from mid-Sept arriving at Richards Bay, South Africa in mid-October. As long as you waited for the southerlies to pass it was a pleasant 1100 miles with winds from east to north and some motor sailing. About every 5 days we got a good weather window of 2 to 3 days to push further south.

Look out for whales. Our record was 19 whales in a 12 hr period, many close to the boat.

Ilha Mozambique was the highlight of the trip. It is quite beautiful with good supplies, diesel, restaurants etc.

We spent 2 weeks in Maputo, the capital. We stayed at the Maputo Marina that dries out at low tide. Jacana sat bolt upright in a desert of soft silty mud. It made for a quiet nights sleep. The marina is very protected with good social life at the adjacent restaurant. The buoyage into Maputo is all well maintained, well lit at night, and easy to follow. We entered at night with absolutely no difficulties and anchored in the river opposite the marina waiting for the daylight high tide to enter.

Dan and Yolanda Hellier

Jacana of Melbourne