After our Atlantic crossing from South Africa we arrived at Cabedelo, State of Paraiba, Northeast region of Brazil and coastal sailed northwards towards the Carribean.

While spending time at Soure in the State of Para, we were offered an amazing opportunity to join the BRALLY Amazon 2021. This adventure, to discover the Amazon Rain Forest, takes place over 20 days and covers 500 nautical miles into the Amazon River from the Delta to the heart of the Amazon.

The Adventure Begins

Our adventure began at Soure, State of Para on Marajo Island, the largest marine-river island on the planet, located in the mouth of the Amazon River.

With 10 yachts arriving in Soure it made for a great welcoming dinner where we got to meet our fellow sailors, enjoying the local traditional dancers and musicians while learning about  the Amazon where flood fields predominate, extensive mangrove forests and an ancestral culture marked by the Marajoara people that inhabited the island between the years 300 and 1300.

We departed Soure at 07.00am with 4kts of incoming tidal current in our favour. Our 50nm motor sail was uneventful until 10nm before Belem when we got 25kts of wind pushing us into Belem.  The anchorage had good holding with mud bottom (01 28s 48 28w).

Gateway to the Amazon
 
Belem of Para is the capital and largest city of the state of Para. It is the gateway to the Amazon River lying approximately 100km upriver from the Atlantic Ocean, on the Para River, which is part of the greater Amazon River system, separated from the larger part of the Amazon delta by Marajo Island.

 
Next anchorage was a 37nm motor/sail with tidal current in our favour to a beautiful location called Port do Malato. We all enjoyed a beach BBQ and an amazing sunset. The anchorage area rose sharply from 20m to 1.5m instantly resulting in a few yachts landing on the bank, the holding was not good with a few of us dragging and a rather rolly night (01 30S/58.54W).

The next morning was an early 5.00am departure to Curralingho as we had a 60nm trip before sunset. The tidal current was in our favour for most of the way.  After a long hot day a cool off in the river was very welcome.

The anchorage was very remote but safe with good holding.  (01 49 S/49 47 W).

The Marajo Archipelago

Another early 5.00am departure saw us continue navigating the Gulf of Marajo, to the south of the Marajo island until we reached the Estreito (strait) de Breves, a complex system of channels that make up a large part of the 2500 islands of the Marajo Archipelago. We had a favourable current and 15kts of wind on the beam making for a good sail. Breves was a very lively busy town where we could enjoy a two night stopover for provisioning and fuel (01 41S/50 28W).

The leg from Breves to Chico Nobre was most interesting. Here are the instructions from Cesar Mello, Commander of the fleet:

“This will be the most complex stretch of navigation as we will enter a labyrinth of small canals, small rivers and shallow depths, it is important that the boats stay close together and radio contact at all times for instructions. There is high voltage cables crossing the river we will pass on the right bank”. This section was very narrow and windy in parts. The children came out to meet us and it is a tradition to give them gifts.

We were amazed at how small these kids were and how confident they were in their small boats. We spent the night at a very quiet, peaceful anchorage with good holding (01 10S/50 51W).

The Journey Continues…

Our route continued towards Gurupa (1 24S/51 39W), then Almeirim (1 32S/52 34W) and Prainha (1 48S/53 28W) until we reached Monte Alegre (2 00S/54 04W), where we visited the Monte Alegre State Park known for its caves and prehistoric rock paintings, among the oldest archaeological remains of the Amazon region, around 11.200BP. 

Coming towards Monte Alegre we had 15kts of wind against a 3kt head on current making for a very choppy ride.  We had a welcome two night stay which gave us the opportunity to re-provision and re-fuel.

Continuing onwards to Tapara for our last anchorage before Alter do Chao, a 52nm trip. Another very remote and peaceful anchorage with good holding. We enjoyed well deserved sundowners and a display from the dolphins playing around the boats. (2 26S/54 34W).

Muddy Water v Fresh Water

Our last 30nm into Alter do Chao past Santarem were the muddy waters of the Amazon River meets the fresh water of the Tapajos, which flows from the Mantaro River from the central region of Peru.

The Beautiful Alter do Chao

It is the main tourist spot of Santarem with the most beautiful freshwater beach in the world according to the British newspaper The Guardian and is popularly know as the Brazilian Caribbean.

The End of the Rally

At the end of the rally we were treated to a traditional fish BBQ of Amazonian fresh water fish called Piracaia. Over 15 days we covered 530nm through the most complex river system in the world. The rally was extremely well organized and accompanied by an infrastructure composed of private security, mechanics, medical and logistics staff. Never did we feel unsafe even in the most remote anchorages. 

However, after experiencing such an amazing passage and the isolation of some of the anchorages we would recommend doing this trip only with a rally or with two or more boats.

Mark and Christine Templeman
SV Cecily

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For further information on the rally and contacts check out www.brallyamazon.com

See more “Off the Beaten Path” articles and resources here.

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About the Authors

Irish sailor Christine Templeman and her South African husband Mark, left Cape Town on 9th December 2020 aboard their Irish registered vessel SV Cecily have sailed to Namibia, St Helena, Ascension Island then Brazil. 

After spending Christmas 2021 and New Year 2022 in Alter do Chao it took another 500nm to leave Alter do Chao to exit the Amazon via
Macapa into the North Atlantic. Next stop Grenada.

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.