Arriving at the mouth of this, the longest river in Malaysia, I found the large buoys that mark both sides of the channel mostly missing. This made the depth sounder the main instrument of navigation for the whole journey. The speed of the river flow increases when the ocean tide is falling. Accordingly, I planned to travel when the tide was rising and the flow against me lessened.

I kept to the starboard of all these markers, out of the channel as the depth was adequate. The first side creek I saw was three miles upriver and, as I was tired from the twenty-four-hour sail to arrive here, I entered it and anchored just near a little jetty close to the bank (2 deg 23.97 N / 111 deg 18.42 S).

My next stop was to be Sibu where the end of July the cultural fair was on for eight days. There is a fast ferry from Kuching to Sibu, but I wanted to take my boat upstream.

As I had one-meter draft always when in the river, I kept to the inside bends, very close to the bank as there was less current flowing. Here it was mainly deep, but surprises did occur so be alert to your depth sounder and overhanging trees. When the current becomes strong, try the other side of the river and watch out for tugs and fishermen in slow boats – they read the river current. At inside bends, the current was at least 2 knots less than that in the centre, even on a rising tide.

There were many villages to stop at to enjoy the hospitality.

Sibu

The Cultural Fair had excellent food stalls and stage displays from the four cultures of Malaysia – Malay, Indian, Chinese and the indigenous Indians of many races. The Iban I met the year before (when I backpacked and canoed all the way up the river) entertained me with too much food and beer and rice whisky. Go to these Iban stalls for grilled catfish and friendship.

Sibu has everything a boating person needs and you can walk everywhere. Excellent chandlery and hardware. I even bought ‘Lexan’ for a window. Joseph at highwaysibu@gmail.com has a store near the ferry terminal for advice on where to buy.

Anchor on another side of the river to the town – opposite the ferry wharf. Leave the dinghy at the first floating dock downstream from the ferry wharf.

Exploring Sibu, there is an enjoyable town climb to the top of the Buddhist temple and also visit the amazing enormous Chinese temple 15 miles out of town. Visit Iban villages and on it goes. The market is said to be the largest in Malaysia. There is a fast ferry from Kuching to Sibu and accommodation is cheap.

Sibu to Kapit by my boat was another story.

Sibu to Kapit

Again I travelled just a few feet from the inside bend of the river, eyes glued to the depth sounder and to trees overhanging the bank. It took me 20 hours of travelling time. (Here I confess I grounded twice and also had a tree limb in the rigging above the crosstrees). Waiting on the rising tide to continue my journey I enjoyed visiting longhouses to chat for hours and to see the skulls hanging there collected when they were head-hunters, I spread the journey over three days.

I had to watch for logs floating downstream and with an alloy propeller, I had to even watch for small sticks as well and often put the engine out of gear until sticks passed out the back of my boat. Many very narrow coffin-like 100 ft. long fast ferries pass you with little wash, as well as many barges and small ships carrying millions of logs. All were courteous at the unusual sight of a sailing boat.

Longhouses were in abundance and many have a phone signal, so I could anchor to call home, check the email and wander ashore to find hospitable people.

The journey was tiring however, as being a single hander, the continuous concentration was necessary to avoid logs and sticks and to avoid overhanging trees when travelling so close to the river bank.

Kapit

Again I anchored across the river from the town for privacy as the wharves are crowded with all sorts of boats. There were plenty of places to leave a dinghy.

The town looks ugly from the water but was very friendly. Again, fast ferries travel from Sibu to Kapit and accommodation is cheap. Well worth it for a couple of days.

My Iban friends had organised a tug to pull me through the rapids after I reached Kapit. Pulling me through may have been successful, but returning when the tug had to reverse to round sharp bends – what would happen to my catamaran?. I declined to go no further than Kapit to their disappointment, but I hired canoes to visit longhouses.

I was taken to a long house party – 4 hours by cramped outboard canoe, but 500 people turned up and beer and rice whisky flowed. No one went to bed and we left at 6 pm the next morning with many shouting the Iban equivalent of “party pooper”!

My journey took 20 hours upriver and 8 hours back down to Sibu. I flew down the river as I looked for the maximum river current with me. Next time I will take the two-hour fast ferry and drop off at each of the longhouses on the way up.

More Exploring Options

An excellent trip is to Beluga another 100 miles upstream from Kapit. It is amazing how the captain manipulates his 100 ft. long cigar boat through ferocious rapids on the way to Beluga and it is even more terrifying going downstream, which is harder, as the current is with the boat. Engines scream in reverse to keep control.

Again there are cheap hotels in Beluga – a tiny town. The great dam is 20 minutes away. If you have left your boat in Kuching, take a 4×4 from Beluga to the coastal highway to see Niah Caves etc. (Stay at the Niah National park huts) and bus back to Kuching.

For the adventurous, I recommend up-river to Sibu.

Only 75-year-old fools drive their boat to Kapit and it was great to be told no sailboat had arrived before.

People we meet is the reason for travel and this river has immensely rewarded me.

Bernie Katchor

SV Australia 3 (11m Dean Cat).