Some corrections and new information – Adriatic Pilot

Clive and Norma Probert

S/Y Sanyassa

Our edition of The Adriatic Pilot was the 4th. and we downloaded the July 2006 corrections. These corrections are based on the above during June, July and August 2009.

CROATIA

Page 27

A Warning about Anchoring fees

We are 12 years into a circumnavigation and have visited over 50 countries around the world. In Croatia, for the first time, we were asked for payment for anchoring.

These fees were NOT cheap. They were set at 50% of the dockage fees which included a 50% surcharge because we are a catamaran! We only paid twice in U. Luka and Bobovisce. At Bobovisce 4 weeks earlier we were not charged. We were told that charges there had just been introduced. The other times we chose to move on when they came for payment, in spite of the fact they it was usually around 1900hrs.

We had been alerted to this practice before we came to Croatia, so we asked the Harbourmaster in Cavtat, where we checked in, for a list of the harbours where charges were being made. He was unable to provide us with one. The practice is clearly spreading, the pilot mentions a few places where they have been charged up to 2004 but more and more places seem to be introducing them.

It is unacceptable that one should enter an anchorage not knowing whether or not a charge will be made and having to wait until late evening to find out. This completely ruined for us what should have been a wonderful season’s cruising. Had it not been for the fact that we had arranged for some of our family to join us in late August, we would have headed back to Greece much earlier. In normal circumstances, we would have returned for a second season. We certainly will not do so now.

We think it important that anyone considering cruising Croatia should as far as possible be made aware of this problem. The concern is that other countries might see what Croatia are doing and think it a good way to increase the government’s revenues at the expense of us cruisers.

Page 59

Cavtat

We anchored first in U. Tiha and went ashore to the harbourmaster’s office. We were told that to check in we needed to go to the Customs Dock. This is at the North end of the Cavtat Town dock, identified by the Croatian flags. We motored round to U. Cavtat to find that there was a boat on the dock and we were second in a queue to go on it. There is only room for one yacht and you are not allowed to raft up, so it is one boat being processed at a time. This takes ½ to ¾ hr. so we had to stand off for an hour, waiting for our turn. In the meantime, 4 more yachts arrived and were queued up outside us.

You have first to go to the Police situated about 50 M to the north and through a garden. You fill in a crew list which he stamps and leaves him with your passports. The crew list you then take to the harbourmaster who completes further formalities and issues your Vignette. We were charged 1200 Kuna for our 10.88 M catamaran. You then take your papers back to the Police who returns your passport.

You then must vacate the dock immediately. This procedure had to be followed by an Australian boat even though they had booked a place on the town dock within 50 M of the Customs Dock!

U. Tiha

There is a new small harbour in the bight of the SW corner of the bay. It has numerous electricity points and water taps on the dock and there appears to be adequate depth for yachts, however, it is full of small local boats. It is possible to go stern-to if there is room on the outer side of the southern breakwater.

Page 62

Hridid Grebeni – Rt. Petka channel

The Westernmost rock off Rt. Petka is marked by a post with a West Cardinal topmark.

Page 64

Dubrovnik Marina

We had to go in here as we needed an engine repair. We stayed one night and were charged 95 euro! This is more than twice as much as we have been charged anywhere in the world.

We did, however, get excellent service by the engineer, Charlie.

Page 67

There is a large hotel now at Slano which dominates the head of the bay and rather overwhelms the village.

At Grgurici, half way up on the NW side of the inlet, there is a restaurant with free dockage for customers.

Large areas of the bay have swimming areas along the shore. These do not interfere with the best anchorage sites.

Page 70

Ston

We tried to anchor here but were told it was not allowed.

Page 96

Okuklje

The whole of the harbour out to the 10M mark shown on the chartlet is filled with moorings laid by the restaurants and are free for their customers.

Page 97

Saplunara

There are two restaurants in the bay and they have laid moorings inshore. Unfortunately, this prevents anchoring where there is good holding in sand. Further out there is thick weed and poor holding.

Page 101

Zaklopatica

Other restaurants, as well as Augusta Insula, offer free water and electricity.

Page 104

Uvula Luka

We were charged 150 Kuna to anchor for one night.

Page 107

Lombada

There is a no anchoring sign at the entrance to the harbour.

Page 121

Hvar Town

There is a coin-operated laundrette. It is situated by the public toilets on the road from the harbour very near to the bus station.

Page 125

Vinogradisce

The holding in the shallower inner part of the bay is good but further out there is a lot of weed and holding can be poor. We watched a flotilla organiser try to get one of his charges anchored, it took over an hour and at least 5 attempts before he succeeded!

Page 129

Stari Grad

There are some 20 or so visitors moorings arranged along the north side of the harbour. We picked one up and were charged 150 Kuna for one night. This fee is set at half of the cost of going stern-to the dock.

There is a laundry on the north shore of the harbour roughly where the “D” of Stari Grad is on the chartlet. Best to go to the Tourist Office near the head of the harbour and obtain a map and directions. Charges are 20 Kuna for 1 Kilogram, but she will not do small 1 Kg loads.

Stari Grad is a good place from which to visit Hvar Town and avoid the crowded rolly harbour there. There is an air-conditioned bus service over the mountains, though this is not for the faint-hearted as the road is very narrow and has no protection from the steep drop-offs on the mountainside.

Page 149

Split

We had a mechanical problem so diverted there. The chartlet on page 150 does not indicate any areas for anchoring, nor is there mention of it in the text. We were relieved on arriving there to see many yachts anchored in the NW part of the harbour, as we were expecting to have to go into the marina with their exorbitant charges. We had excellent service from the mechanic there who obtained the part we needed within 2 hours.

Page 158

Trogir

There was no problem anchoring east of the line between Rt. Cubrijan and the pier at Seget. There were several yachts there plus a superyacht and a cruise liner! However, the bad news was that when we went ashore with our dinghy we were informed that we would be charged for anchoring there equal to half the cost of staying in the marina – for us 165 kuna. The sea breeze was blowing straight up the harbour and with that, plus the passing traffic and the noise from the shipyard, it was intolerable anyway. We did a quick shop and left.

Page 160

Vinisce

Having left Trogir in 22kts WSW wind we motored to U Vinisce which seemed to offer the best shelter in the area. At 1840hrs. we were asked for payment for anchoring there also. The wind had dropped, so in spite of the time, we left.

We are concerned that a harbour offering no facilities, except very good shelter, should choose to expect payment for using our own equipment and offering nothing in return. As a harbour of refuge, one could foresee having to stay there several days until the weather improved, at a considerable cost.

Page 169

Sibenik

There is no water on fuel berth.

There is water on the end of the ferry dock. You need to find the “waterman” to turn it on. Enquire at the car park kiosk. The charge is 20 kuna per 100 L though there is no gauge on the tap.

Page 172

Sradin

One day we were there, some yachts were moved from the bays opposite but some were not. There did not seem to be any reason for this. The next day none were moved. The yachts which were moved were told to go to the bay on the NE side just downstream from the marina.

There were problems in the anchorage on the W side when winds went light and with the current, yachts swung in opposite directions. If going up to the National Park it would be advisable to anchor well away from other yachts.

Page 186

Bobovisce

We had anchored here for free 3 weeks earlier. We were therefore surprised when we were asked for charges hereby youths with official identification. We were told that these charges had been recently introduced. The charges once again were 50% of those for staying on the dock. We were told that we could go temporarily on the dock and obtain free water for this charge.

Page 192

Krknjas

We stayed 2 nights here. The second night a teenager in a dory came and tried to charge us for anchoring. He had no official identification so we refused. He left threatening us with the police, but nothing further ensued.

Page 194

Prvic Luka

We anchored within the harbour. Once more we were approached at 1900hrs. to pay for anchoring, 130 kuna. We refused to pay these charges on principle. We were told that if we anchored outside the harbour breakwater we would not be charged, so we moved there anchoring in 7M. You need to make sure here that you are clear of the ferry approach route.

Page 198

U Tratinska

Once again all the anchoring depths are full of moorings.

Page 205

Otak Murter

There is a pleasant sheltered overnight anchorage in U. Kococ 0.7nm NE of the bridge at Tijesno at 43 48.05N 15 37.57E. There is some swell from passing power boats but this disappears after dusk.

Page 230

Gnal

There are a number of moorings scattered around the bay which severely restricts the room for anchoring.

Landin

All the anchoring depths are full of moorings presumably laid by the restaurant at the head of the bay.

Page 244

Hiljaca

Once again the area where there are anchoring depths in the northern part of the bay is full of moorings.

Page 252

Cuscica

The National Park fees were 60 kuna per person. This also covered us for the next night at U. Telascica.

Page 249

Lavsa

The charges for yachts in the National Park is calculated on the boat length. The smallest fee for yachts up to 11M is 150 kuna per night.

Two criticisms of the Adriatic Pilot.

We hope that these will be taken as constructive.

1)The lat/longs given tend to be in the anchorages rather than at the entrances to the bays and harbours. There is no indication on the chartlets as to where they are situated. This is done much better in the Turkish and Greek Waters Pilots where the GPS positions are clearly marked on the chartlets. Positions are also given for significant headlands and channels.

2) The use of cables as a means of measuring distance is surely now many years out of date. All charts and navigational instruments, logs, gps and radar all use nautical miles. The use of metres is sometimes acceptable.