I and my boat Ibis have reached finally Ecuadorian Territory, which as of my double nationality is one of my home countries. Unfortunately for cruising, the news to bring from this country is not too good.

The Ecuadorian Coast is not a cruising coast. The country has no cruising tradition and so far very few marinas to offer.

Starting from the Colombian Border of Tumaco coming south, Esmeraldas and the border area are an unsafe zone. This is the territory of the Colombian drug guerilla and even the Ecuadorian Navy is staying out of conflict with outboard motor robbery. The fishermen of that area have complained, but the Navy and Police are not dealing too hard with it since the drug querilla of Colombia is too heavy and organized. I stayed inside the Navy Zone and could do this since my cousin is an Admiral. But no other sailor will be allowed to do so and just about 30 days before, a few yards away of the Navy zone, a French sailboat was cleaned by thieves during the night.

So, unfortunately, the northern area of the country is unsafe. The Ecuadorian coastguard is very friendly and helpful if needed.

Coming south, the area of Cojimies (between Esmeraldas and Manabi, at Latitude 0°) is just beautiful. I´ve never seen so many whales in 3 hours, as the morning I came south. I had slept hove-to at the latitude 0° and at 0600 I started to set sail south when I saw all around Humpbacks, Sperm whales and Orcas. The humpbacks were jumping in their traditional way, making a half turn in the air and then splashing into the water. The sperm whales would show their black back and then, in their unique and elegant way lift the tail fin and slide it back into the water softly. The Orcas, aggressive hunters, would chase the giant squids and jump out of the water once in a while.

I enjoyed this trip south until I reached heavy water at the height of Don Juan, a small fishing village, just 30 miles north of Bahia de Caraquez. I had been told to stay away from the beach because of theft. But I was too tired from my trip from Chiapas, single-handed without autopilot. So, I called the fisherman and they brought me to shore and I could buy some vegetable. They gave me some giant shrimps and crabs for free and I made a fine meal out of it. During the night I set lights as they advised and I had no problems at all. In the morning coming back, they said goodbye and I continued to Bahia.

On arriving in Bahia, as usual, the Marina of Trip Martin, Puerto Amistad, did not answer the radio, nor would the Port Captain. So, I had to pay 30 dollars to a fisherman to bring me into Puerto Amistad where I was welcomed by Trip Martin himself. He was very fast in offering all services and asked for an advance payment of USD 275 to set all the papers to get the permits done. It took me 3 weeks in which they had not been able to return one phone call, to make me aware they were not able to get the temporary permit and to deliver one single paper. My entrance to the country was delivered by the Coastguard Captain, who made it as a favor to my cousin, the Admiral. The Port Captain of Bahia, who does not report to the Navy, did not a thing and said, to continue to Salinas. Trip Martin took the advance payment of USD 275 and charged the 3 weeks I had waited to get the documents done. Just today I was surprised by the announcement that the Marina costs have increased from USD 200 monthly to USD 370.

Here to know, the Ecuadorian cruising regulations: The entrance into the country has to be done by an agent. Every boat needs to be cleared by the Port Captain, Sanitation and Customs. The permit can be asked from 90 to 360 days.

All these documents do not include Galapagos Islands for cruisers. That would be a separate USD 700 package.

Marinas are not available; the mooring at Puerto Lucia for my 26-footer would be USD 702.60, at the Manta Yacht Club USD ,´500 and at Puerto Amistad USD 370.

In Ecuador, once you are in the country, every movement with the boat has to be asked a “zarpe” with additional fees for an agent and Port Captain. Unfortunately, Ecuador is not friendly waters for sailors and cruisers….

Hans Lehmann

SY Ibis