Port Morgan (Ile-a-Vache) - General Info
The situation in Haiti is unstable, with gang violence paralysing the country. Supplies of fuel, food and water are very limited and cholera is rife, including in Ile a Vache. Cruising there should not be attempted at this time. If you wish to assist in some way, contact Hopefleet/Kingsfleet, who are dealing with aid to Haiti.
Description:
The Island of Ile à Vache, at the SW corner of Haiti, is beautiful and a safe place to visit by cruising yachts. The anchorage is at Port Morgan at the NW corner of the island (see photo, left, of the anchorage at Port Morgan in front of the town of Cai Coq courtesy of Free Cruising Guides).
The island is changing and while there used to be no electric or cars on the island, there are now a few generator and inverter installations plus some motorbikes, mostly in the capital Madame Bernard.
Ile a Vache is slowly becoming more prosperous (the government is planning a major tourist centre on the island with an airport and hotels – slow in coming) but in the main, it will be just you and the villagers.
Ile-a-Vache is not inhabited by rich people, but the fishermen do get by and the people are gentle and welcoming. Because of this, it may work to consider bartering for goods/services rather than simply living on cash. Any excess or old fishing gear can be passed on and it is appreciated if visitors help keep the village clean.
Entrance Notes and Cautions:
Ile-à-Vache is best approached from the West. Keep a sharp lookout for lobster and fish pots. The waters are full of fishing floats, mostly plastic bottles, which are very difficult to see. There is a shoal as you come into the Baie de Feret on the west side, which should be kept well clear of.
Many dugouts will rush out to “see” you as soon as you come in sight, they are friendly people from Caye Coq and will offer you assistance with entering and anchoring. Visitors are rare, so be patient for the first 24 hours, the novelty will soon wear off and the visits from dugouts less frequent.
As in the rest of Haiti, the local fisherman need currency for their fish so that they can buy clothes, cooking oil and rice etc. Locals appreciate the following items: Lines, old sails, fishing nets, floats, hooks, old dive masks, primary school supplies, backpacks for school children, children’s shoes, basic medical supplies.
Position:
18° 06.30’N, 73° 41.70’W (harbour)
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Ile a Vache
The approach to Isle a Vache is totally encumbered with fishing floats which are plastic bottles, very difficult to see sometimes, and even though we were being really careful we picked one up both entering and leaving. We were charged a one-time fee of $5US for anchoring by the local council and given an official receipt.
As we were only there for a couple of days we did not have time to go to Les Cayes to clear. Labour is very cheap and there were many offers to clean stainless steel, polish etc. Children come out in dug-out canoes wanting biscuits etc and if you give to just one you will be constantly pestered. Better to donate by taking things ashore and refusing any handouts to visiting canoes.
There are many boats still trading and fishing under sail – their seamanship is superb and they are a wonderful sight. Old sails are a very welcome gift as they recut them for their boats.
Roger Morgan and Sue Lister
SV Wapiti April 2015
Lovely visit. We used Jasmine and McKinley to bring diesel from the main island. I would recommend them. I would also advise against young boys contracting for diesel as carrying substantial cash into the city and it is not fair to young lads from a safety perspective.
You pay the water taxi, moto bike, and cargo surcharge on the water taxi and if you have any heart at all their lunch. Always Set a price before they go, so you avoid disagreements later. None of the boat boys wanted to specify a price but will if you insist. Washing water can be canned over by any of the boat boys.
We had 11 yo Clevins whose English was good as a guide — charming young fellow. Felix is building a small hostel/hotel and his girl did us a lovely fish dinner at a reasonable price. The very nice guy look out for his coming soon dive Center. Mary Ann II
Now there is also Internet in der Baye on the west side. There is a little museum about captain Morgan and there Jean has installed internet. He also has a compressor to give you electric to your laptop. The internet is fast and it cost only 1 US $ an hour. He also offers other services (eating and so on). He is very friendly and helpful, he speaks French, English and Spanish.
In the hotel, I did not find any help!
There is a home for children in Madame Bernard, the “chief” is Flora. There are living very strong handicapped children and we gave them some help. (More information at sy-elessar.com is “Logbuch”)
Ile A Vache, Haiti
We also had a wonderful week there. What noonsite says about what they need is right on about the local people. But what they say about the “marina” there is incorrect. Don’t expect ANYTHING from them. There is no dock or moorings. There is no help from them of any kind. They did have diesel because I had emailed them several times asking about it.
It was on the dock in 55-gallon drums and was so old and smelly I almost didn’t get it. If I hadn’t been headed west toward Honduras I would have passed. As it was, it clogged my filters twice even though I ran it twice through a Baha filter before putting it in my tanks.
The marina claims to have internet but unless you want to pay a HUGE price for a mediocre dinner they won’t give you the code. They have NOTHING to offer cruisers.
The local people are wonderful and will help all they can but don’t really have anything to offer beyond a few fruits and nuts. Don’t buy any seafood from them. First of all, it’s the bottom of the barrel and you may literally be taking food out of the mouths of their families.
But if you need some easy task like cleaning or waxing done on your boat, definitely hire a local. We left our boat with our 2 dogs aboard in the care of one of the boys while we went with another boy to the island market. We felt very safe and everything was fine when we returned.
Don’t miss the market! There was nothing we felt like buying there for ourselves, but we bought a pair of shoes for our guide and it was the most interesting experience. Take your dinghy to the market instead of walking unless you’re young and ready for a real hike.
All that being said. If you are anywhere near Ile A Vache, don’t miss it! Just don’t expect anything from the joke of a marina.
Ile A Vache, Haiti.
We had a wonderful week there. The boat boys were very helpful, wanting to work for their money, not wanting handouts. We had at least 12 boys on the boat washing, polishing and cleaning. For the few dollars and the meals, it cost us was worth every cent.
We felt totally safe and never felt threatened at all. I personally feel there is no need for a marina or moorings there, it would just ruin the feel of the place. The only people to get rich out of this venture would be the owners.
Wendy Shields
SV Outsider Australia