Dominica - Facts
- Resting in the heart of the Eastern Caribbean archipelago between Martinique and Guadeloupe, it’s known officially as Commonwealth of Dominica. Nicknamed “the nature island,” Roseau is the capital and the largest city in Dominica.
- France ceded possession of the island to Great Britain in 1763. It became an independent state in 1978.
- English is the official language, however, much of the population speaks Kwéyòl, which is based primarily on French and Carib vocabularies and a syntax borrowed from a variety of West African indigenous languages. A few northern villages use a distinctive English dialect called Kokoy.
- Dominica’s current population is over 72,000.
- The local currency is Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$). See money for details.
- Dominica Time is GMT-4.
- The Island enjoys plenty of sunshine interjected by intermittent rainfall with average temperatures of 27 C. Frequent rainfall cools the tropical heat, nourishes the island’s extensive rainforest, and feeds its rivers, lakes, and waterfalls. On the coast, average rainfall registers 1,780 mm, but in the interior that figure is triple.
- One of the most mountainous of the Windward Islands, it is Dominica’s wild interior that is her main attraction and many come here for the great hiking.
- There are no marinas here, but most services and supplies can be found at Portsmouth or Roseau.
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Lost in the Unspoiled Rainforest Jungle in Dominica. It felt like we were in another world. Waterfalls, Wild Rivers, Sulphur Springs, and Rusty Rocks. Dominica – the Nature Island is in the Eastern Caribbean.
Portsmouth vs Roseau
Syndicate WaterFalls and Trail
Calibishie Red Rocks
The Chocolate Factory
Cold Souffriere
our favorite – the Indian River
All covered in our blog here. https://bluedotvoyages.com/dominica-indian-river-syndicate-falls-portsmouth-roseau/
If travelling with a pet to Dominica :
– Vet Mail (march 2023) : livestockdevunit@dominica.gov.dm
– Answer in 24 h
– Tax : 80€ for 1 dog
Dominica:
You can check in/out for two weeks not one.
No need for Agent.
Now only one operating dinghy dock @ PAYS by the Purple Turtle.
Water buoy in bay operated by Seabird. Charge is XCD80 for as much as you want. Excellent quality. Arrange via Seabird on Ch16 or any Boat Boy.
Dominica: as of 4 april covid testing is no longer required for fully vaccinated sailors. see https://discoverdominica.com/travel-advisory-for-dominica
#Caribbean navigation hazard 49 NM ESE of #Dominica – Derelict and capsized 9m sailing vessel #adrift at 15-00.48 N / 060-26.12 W [1407 hrs UTC, 26 Jan 2021]. Maintain a sharp lookout. Courtesy of #BoatWatch.org
I arrived here from Cape Verde on the 28th December, thinking it was open. But the rules changed on the 23rd. They treated me like a criminal despite me doing what was right to the best of my knowledge, and forced me to quarentine in a quarentine facility, not on my boat. They say I could be here for 5 days. I was at sea for 21 days alone. This is stupid.
We are currently in Dominica. The government has just announced that it has closed all ports to new arrivals. If you are not here already don’t come. You will be turned away.
Dominica is a hidden jewel. The people are kind, courteous, friendly and helpful. We moored in Roseau because of the recommendation to use SeaCat. (Channel 16) Our family’s expectations where exceeded. Dwane with SeaCat treated us with exceptional customer service as he laid out options for tours, diving (which you have to use a local guide for), and anything else he could do to keep us smiling. I usually dred boat boys pulling up the yacht, but these guys are different in the best was possible.
Mr Bean/SeaCat set us up with Armstrong, the tour guide. We paid $200US for 6 people to tour waterfalls and have the best day we’ve had in a long while.
Hello friends of Dominica!
In july we’ll visit Dominica. Not with boat, only with plane. But 2020 with boat. Let’s see….
We are now in Portsmouth, Dominica for a few days. Did a tour of the Indian River this morning with Alexis and thoroughly enjoyed it and meeting the folks at the Bush Bar up the river at the turnaround point. As we were sailing into Portsmouth Alexis came out to our boat (he is a PAYS member) and he asked if we needed a mooring. We asked about one near the Purple Turtle Restaurant which is a nice protected area. He went ahead and assisted us in tying up the boat. He is a very nice, well spoken man and was very professional and friendly. He does other tours as well and we will use him again in the coming days.
Dominica is a beautiful island, the people are friendly and are still recovering from the effects of Hurricane Maria. They rely on the cruising community. We will be back next season and plan to spend a few weeks here to enjoy the island and the people and cruising community.
You only know Portsmouth or have you also been in other ports?
Dominica was not what was to be expected after the hurricane. Roseau has been nicely rebuilt but there are many abandoned building like on many of the other islands. We expected to see much worse conditions. In fact, it has the nicest Super Market we have seen on any of the islands. Pancho gave us a tour around the island and he was fantastic, Had a meal at the Drop Anchor and Guy made us feel like family. Would love to return to spend more time however Mr. Bean made it very uncomfortable for us.
If we return we will head to Portsmouth instead of returning here because of Mr. Bean. Also, his mooring ball rates are varied depending on his mood and he charged us 80 EC for two nights plus money for his gas, it was a first that we have ever seen. Doyle Guide book says you can anchor in that area but Mr. Bean said no, and when questioned about the price for mooring he said the guide books are wrong and that is the price. Too bad Mr. Bean can ruin the whole experience of the island.
We stayed 2 weeks in Portsmouth, which was our first stop after the Atlantic crossing – and had an awesome time. We started directly with the famous PAYS barbecue which is really good to meet people in the bay and get contact with the local sailing community!!
The island was shown to us by Randolph, who is a local who can organize sightseeing tours by car, hiking trips over the whole island to all important and “must see” sights and as well as a taxi if you require one.
He will bring you for example to Indian River, Syndicate Fall, Emerald Pool, Hot springs, Indian Village or a chocolate factory. Just arrange directly with him and he will find a program suitable for your needs.
Another must do is a typical local lunch or dinner at his private house made by his wife who originates from the Caribs, who are the native inhabitants of Dominica.
You can reach him via email: randolphtoursandtaxi@yahoo.com
WhatsApp or phone: +1 767 245 4626
We anchored at first at Roseau after our Atlantic crossing. We were very excited because we did not know exactly how we should register here and how it works.
With a boat we were very nicely received by “Mr.Bean”, he was a great help in everything. We were supported in mooring at the buoy, when clearing (he drove us there) while filling our Diselkanister and the delivery of the laundry and garbage. A great service. At any time we had the feeling that we were safe in the anchor bay. Our dinghy we always had outside our boat, it did not happen. Every day we were asked very unobtrusively if we would need something. Trips were also organized. All in all a great country, which deserves to be visited after the hurricane “Maria”. It is still a lot of broken, but the people are incredibly friendly and helpful. Our Next stop was in Portsmouth, also great here! We had excellent service and a super BBQ at the 31.12 of December 2018.
We had a great time and it’s definitely worth it. We Made a video of our stay at Dominica. Hopefully, it will inspire you. https://youtu.be/asvp-TnFjxA
Moderator’s comment: this short video documents these cruisers’ trip to Dominica in the aftermath of Hurricane Maria
Dominica
Alexis from PAYS came in his boat when we were about 40 minutes out. He was actually on his way somewhere, he asked if we would like a mooring and said he’d be back by the time we got to Portsmouth – and he was.
We were safely guided to a buoy. He took my husband to Customs for 40 EC, you can clear in and out of Customs at the same time on Dominica and it only costs 10EC.
He then told us about the tours he can arrange. We opted for the Indian River Cruise – cost was 25 US pp or 140 EC pp.
The hurricane has destroyed lots of the trees on the river and they have fallen, blocking the route. So they have removed them for about a mile,.so they can take people up and down the river. There’s a bar at the end, so be sure to take some cash. No overhanging trees now so no shelter from the sun.
There is a market near the main jetty on Saturday mornings.
Mooring was 25EC a night, Sunday BBQ at PAYS 50EC each (this is an all you can eat and drink – rum punch only!). Beware of the rum punch.
Smithy’s bar is on the right-hand side walking from the PAYS dinghy dock. Nice food and reasonably priced.
There was a young lady at Smithy’s who was asking for toys to be donated for the Children’s Xmas party in Dec 2018. So if anyone plans to go there before Xmas – take some toys.
An update from Joan Conover, of the SSCA:
Dominica–Surviving with Cruiser Help!
The new communications system from Global Marine Networks, kindly donated to assist in the recovery, is working well! It’s an Iridium Glow (Aurora) and offers email, SMS and voice in one easy package. Anyway, with the damages done to the digital cellular networks in the islands, it’s the only way to be sure you can send and receive messages by text or voice. Once we complete the assist here, we will head to the BVIS, which are from what we can tell, even worse than Dominica as far as recovery efforts.
Here in Dominica.EVERYONE is growing food. Reminds me of the Victory Gardens of WWII, every patch of earth is planted with carrots or tomatoes or cucumbers, etc. Cruisers are busy with several work teams, putting up roofs and fixing foundations for buildings. One of our crew members has been doing hard back-breaking digging of trenches to put in a footing for a roof..other cruisers have taken their boat tools and are cutting up tin roofing for patching/repair of damaged buildings. Several cruisers have donated to the young teen feeding program (90 EC a week for all meals) for pregnant teens and young ones whose homes and their kitchens are destroyed.
Boats have organised in the harbour with a daily VHF chat, lead by our friends of Magoe and Clair Johnson (Macarioadvantage.org) who spend 6 months in harbour establishing programs (school etc..all for non-profits)and overseeing the donation flow. Several boats, ours included, have brought in donations from Antiguas ABSAR program, which I think should be a template for the future. This Aurora system from GMN will let us take it to the mountains in a vehicle and let the victims call outside to family, which we will do during the weeks of the 18th.
Slowly the trees are filling out in the rain forest, we will take a tour next week during Yacht Appreciation Week (Feb 18-26th). The last day is an all-day tour to the Kalinago Territory to see the situation, have a program showing the Kalinago costume and traditions, and a lunch with the group featuring a Kalingo menu. This week starts with carnival..12th and 13th, which will be downsized but people are looking for things to help uplift them. They are all working so very hard.
AND YOU ALL HAVE HELPED DOMINICA! The harbour is being filled with helping boats, who come, help leave and are followed by others. You are getting the word out!! While the PAYS contacts say it’s ‘slow’–its a heck of a lot better than the VIs or BVIS for passing vessels. Ours was just two boat loads, others like Flying Buzzard took in tons, and every boat is emptying boat stores to cover needs daily. See many burgees flying on many boats, Seven Seas Cruising Association, ARC, OCC..all in there helping as they can. And KPK (SSCA Glen Tuttle and others) have been broadcasting the needs.
I have a special request from Clifton Elementary School up in the mountains for school supplies: Please give to Clifton Primary School(give to PAYS member boat ALBERT whose son ALVIN can take to the principal)- Exercise Books, push pins, books, crayons/pens/pencils, dictionaries, encyclopedias, construction paper, manila folders, tape, K-6 readers, markers dry erase and permanent, art supplies, mobiles, white printing paper, coloring books, paper plates, rubber bands, reward stickers, plastic storage boxes, garbage bins, base 10? materials – in other words, schools supplies for the 52 students in the public school there.
We stayed in Dominica in January 2018.
There is much devastation around the island: trees are ripped bare and many roofs are (partly) missing. Construction and repairs are in full progress, and the trees have new leaves on them already. People are very friendly and helpful. I think the best thing to do right now is to spend some money (go to a cafe, restaurant, get a mooring, do a tour) and spread the word about lovely Dominica.
Beware of very strong gusts of wind along the west coast, we saw gusts up to 40 knots and other parts with no wind at all.
ROSEAU
The Anchorage hotel is abandoned and the ‘conspicuous white roof’ described on Navionics is missing.
The moorings in the north of the bay belong to Markus and the moorings in the south to Seacat. Because of some initial confusion we accidentally took a Seacat mooring – after reading the messages here on Noonsite we wanted to moor with Markus. Markus wasn’t on VHF 16, Seacat was. The moorings were both 40 EC.
Seacat doesn’t have tenders or a dock, so you have to take your dinghy onto the stony beach to pay them and to get to town. Markus uses the dock of an abandoned building, which we also used for our dinghy. The middle part of the dock is gone so you have to walk along narrow concrete beams to get to land. You have to pass through the abandoned building, which we did, also at night. It was not a problem, but we felt a bit insecure at first. We paid Markus 10 EC to watch our boat and gave him a couple of packs of cigarettes, which he was very happy with.
The cruise dock is being used again. We witnessed the first cruise ship dock since the hurricane. The whole town was working and rushing to make everything look fine for the tourists. The hotels near the cruise ship dock are in the final stages of being repaired and the central market place has just opened up again.
Customs and immigration are in the cruise ship terminal. We paid 85 EC for the formalities (2 persons, including a cruising permit). It is possible to check in and out at the same time if you stay less than a week.
Seacat offers tours, but if you’re walking along the road you get plenty of other offers for tours as well. The best offer we got was 100 EC for the waterfalls (for two persons). You can also take a local bus up to Wotton Waven, but they don’t run on Sundays.
PORTSMOUTH
There is a big anchorage here, but we decided to spend some money on a mooring. PAYS offers the moorings for 25 EC a night.
We can really recommend doing an Indian River tour with Eddison. Our guide was called Daniel and we loved his early-morning tour. They are on channel 16 and 8 or can be reached on +1 767 225 3626.
It is amazing to hear first-hand stories about the hurricane from the tour guides and very inspiring to hear how the country is getting back on its feet.
Dominica; a great place to stay & yachts very welcome!
Our stay in Portsmouth January 23-25 2018
We were hesitant to come to Dominica, not knowing what to expect in terms of hurricane destruction and security, but we heard some very positive experiences from friends.
We stayed in Portsmouth for 2 days at anchor, and we can recommend the place to everyone! Portsmouth is being rebuilt, hurricane damage is everywhere but facilities such as customs, banks, grocery stores and restaurants (we had a great dinner art Madiba on the beach) are open. The local PAYS guys look after you very well (we did business with Lawrence of Arabia, highly recommended), they provide water taxi service, take you to the customs office, provide security by nightly patrols, and organise tours (Indian River tour is a must!)
We brought some clothes to form Martinique for the hurricane victims, this was much appreciated but no obligation, most of all they just want the yachties to come back!
If heading to Dominica and wondering what the locals really need at this time (that takes up little space on board) consider:
1. New underwear (for people of all ages and sizes)
2. Shoes/slippers
3. Basic first aid supplies (dressings, antiseptic products, tape, band-aids, cough and cold remedies).
Reported by Ken Goodings on the Dominica Cruisers Facebook Page.
Antigua Barbuda SAR has lots of donations for Dominica at Falmouth Harbour. Boats who can carry cargo early January 2018 contact info@absar.org.
Posted on Dominica Cruisers Facebook Page
Although the situation continues to rapidly change for the better, at present visiting cruisers should know:
1. Garbage collection has resumed;
2. Digital, Lime, and Flow offices are open;
3. Although the water supply at the Cabrits cruise ship dock is gone (along with the dock), clean, safe water is available at the public taps along the street and at the PAYS water buoy in the bay;
4. Propane bottles can again be filled in Roseau by PAYS during tours and with special or group arrangements;
5. Although the PAYS office and pavilion is missing some of its roofs, the dock is perfectly reassembled, and the ability to host barbecues has been proven by hosting them for the crews of some of the relief ships;
6. Although the Purple Turtle is presently not operating, happily Ray’s Roti Shop, Smithies, Madiba, and some other cruisers’ favourite restaurants are back to normal;
7. The bank and the Credit Union are operating completely with functioning ATM machines;
8. Bakeries are running;
9. Although the MiniCash grocery is still not functioning, Northern Food Supply opened this week and the Picard IGA (near the medical school) is open with limited but growing supplies;
10. The moorings are being reassembled for the season;
11. Yacht security is set to resume with no damage to the security boat.
12. Indian River Tour, Milton Falls, Trafalga Falls, Red Rocks, Cold Volcano, and a growing number of other attractions are open, and one can always take a Post-Maria Tour.
The PAYS organization members are anxious to serve you all this season and hope you will visit.
Reported by the OCC:
Dominica – First Impressions
We went ashore in Dominica this morning and walked into the centre of Portsmouth. What a mess. Not to say that they hadn’t done a good job of getting back on their feet – but what a mess! There are spaces full of debris where a house once was. The forest beside the town is broken and battered.
But the people are still Dominicans. Still very happy and friendly. Still very pleased that you’ve come to their island to visit.
In the afternoon, we got together with Jeff, President of PAYS who look after all the moorings and provide security for the Yotties. He immediately set us to work and we dug a trench for a new kitchen wall and counter in the PAYS pavilion – where he’s planning that they will hold their first BBQ of the season on Christmas Eve – just 3 weeks from now.
We’ve also got plans to assist them in refurbishing the pavilion itself which is missing some of its roofs, we’re to build a new storage area (so he doesn’t have to store stuff in the Ladies room(!) ) and we’re going to start laying mooring balls tomorrow afternoon.
There are lots to do, and we’re planning on getting on and doing it!
So far we have 4 OCC boats in Dominica for the express purpose of helping out. We’re hoping others will be joining us in the coming days as there are lots to be done!
Reported on Martinique Cruisers facebook group:
Dominica is good for receiving visitors. Due to breaking down I have been in Prince Rupert bay for 2 weeks. Every night there are now 6 to 10 boats anchored or moored. Dominica needs your help to get back to somewhat of a normal life. Come spend some time and money here. Take a tour, buy a beer.
There are two bakeries open in Portsmouth 6 days a week. Help this wonderful island with your support. And yes pack a few extras to give away. Tarpaulins are still needed. They don’t last long in the sun. And two months on there are still people living in badly damaged houses. So yes please stop in on your way north or south. Customs and immigration and the PAYS guys are all operating.
Is it as safe as any other island. In Portsmouth, there are shops open. They don’t have vast stores but most cruisers carry their own stores. As I said 2 bakery’s working. 6 days a week. PAYS guys who look after the moorings and the needs or cruisers are active. Gasoline stations – 2 are open. Some bars are even open. Every day a few more houses get connected to the grid.
It will be a long recovery. Come see for yourself. Help in the recovery any way you can. Nature is coming back as best it can. Dominica will be beautiful again. If nothing else come and see what a hurricane can do to an island. The power must have been horrifying and terrifying to witness.
Please don’t by-pass Portsmouth. Drop in, stay a few days and post your views too.
LIAT RESTARTS LIMITED COMMERCIAL SERVICE TO DOMINICA
Following the opening announcement by Prime Minister of Dominica, Hon. Roosevelt Skerritt, LIAT will resume limited commercial service to Douglas Charles Airport as we begin to normalize operations following Hurricane Maria.
The service will operate daily alternating between the hubs of Antigua and Barbados. Interim Chief Commercial Officer Audra Walker stated that this frequency is done as the airline has to work with several challenges as well as concern for its staff. “We were the first airline back into Dominica and our staff has worked tirelessly from the first flight two days after Hurricane Maria as well as when we did our relief flights even with their own difficulties. We are assisting them with getting back to a sense of normalcy.” She further stated that there were still challenges with connectivity from Dominica which would mean the use of a manual system for operations.
The re-introduction of the commercial service will also see the lifting of restrictions on who can travel into the Commonwealth of Dominica. Any person can now book via the website or Call Centre under the normal travel requirements.
The new schedule will see LIAT operating a return flight from Antigua to Dominica on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday while the daily return flight to Barbados will operate on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. This schedule will run until November 7th when the airline will review and update its schedule into affected territories for the winter season.
During our stay on March 10, 2017, an old neglected coaster sank in Prince Rupert Bay. It is just under the surface. Coordinates 15 34 66N, 61 27 75W. We left Rupert Bay on the 11th, the danger was not yet marked by then.
we had so huge expectations in Dominica, BUT…
1. no more a ‘secret island’ – it is very, very touristic!!
2. too much boats at Portsmouth/Prince Rupert bay! Minimum > 70 Y’s creating lots of traffic and, and, and…
3. horrible night, since the disco music nera, PAYS started at 09:00 pm and did not stop before 04:30 am!!!!! And it was so noisy, no chance to sleep!
4. very choppy and swelly, every day, independent there was no wind at all.
5. you pay for everything, also for every waste bin you want to get rid of …
We stay in Dominica in May 2016, half of the time in Portsmouth, half of it in Roseau. We loved it: Very respectful boat boys, very helpful and kind, especially with the kids. The same applies to the local population in Portsmouth and surrounding villages: Always a smile and a few nice words.
People are generous, we received a lot of fruits or veggies when hiking. We always felt safe, even in Roseau, despite there are a few beggers. The island is very clean, no litter (there has been a lot of education made on that matter lately). Overall, we found people very nice and respectful, probably due to the influence of the rastafarism culture, very present over there.
DOMINICA’S FIRST YACHTIE APPRECIATION WEEK
February 14 to 21, 2016
Organised to celebrate the installation of a new mooring field in Prince Rupert’s Bay. All visiting yachts will receive free moorings, discounted island tours, and nightly socials. As a bonus, St. Maarten Yacht Club will help organize a Rally/Race to get boats from the island of Dominica to St. Maarten in time for the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta.
The Islanders still need help following tropical storm Erika that devastated the island in 2015. If planning on visiting Dominica, read the news item adjacent re. items that are still urgently needed (including diapers/nappies for children, school items, Christmas toys, female products/pads, and other basics.
Posted by Chris Doyle on the Dominica Cruisers (PAYS) Facebook Page
Indian River
It does not matter how many times I go up the Indian River, it is still as magical as ever. The addition of the Calypso’s hut which grows organically out of the mangroves is a lovely addition. It is is a crying shame that the land surrounding the river has is privately owned and has no protective ordinance. Some of this land is now being sold off and some of the drainage swamps for the area is being filled. When it rains this means more water will pour down the river changing its ecology. This could end up being a tragedy for a site that is unique in the eastern Caribbean. Go enjoy it while you can!
http://www.doyleguides.com
No one likes to hear arguments but arguments are what they are until being resolved. I believe Roseau is not immune from arguments such as any capital city or countryside in the World. Why is someone posting on Noonsite about two guys arguing is beyond me. Litter is an issue for me because I love a clean place. We are resolving it till there are no paper or plastics on our beaches and road drains. Still not worthy for Noonsite as we are not immune to litter.
I have to post that we find the exact opposite. We were in Portsmouth for 2 weeks and now in Roseau for 10 days. The PAYS guys are wonderful in Portsmouth and, while not so organised, we’re happy with what we have found in Roseau. In addition, we’re travelling with other boats (5 in Portsmouth, 3 in Roseau) and we are all quite happy here. Go figure!
Posted on behalf of Vivianne Perazelli (Canada)
Hi, I finally decided to send you an update on this paradise island, as they like to call it here. We arrived here 6 weeks ago and due to our broke down engine, we are here for a while. On a morning in Roseau ( Newtown), we just about had enough witnessing to constant battles between the “canoe boys”. It is not fun to hear …I will shoot you-you f….. For us, it’s the last time we come here. The streets are filthy, garbage everywhere, taxi drivers that never leave you alone. Not fun !!!