Tanzania Ports and Anchorages

Dar Es Salaam

Clearing in:

Firstly, you will need to present to Immigration to arrange your Visa. Sea Port Immigration is located on the third floor of the Immigration Building of the Port of Dar es Salam.  Payment MUST be made in USD cash – we were told that no other currency or form of payment is accepted!

A three month visa costs: $50 USD per person and $100 USD for American Passports.  In our experience do not attempt check in without USD in cash or things will become frustratingly difficult. It is also difficult to get USD in Dar es Salaam so I would advise being prepared and getting it elsewhere before you arrive in Tanzania.

After you have been given your visa, you will need to present to Customs, which is located at Gate two (2) of the Shipping Port.  At the office beside the security gate, you will be required to sign in and be given a visitor lanyard which will need to be returned on your departure.  You may be directed to many various offices, however Customs is located at the MAIN KEY Building.

The Transire Document:

You should also request your Transire document while you are at Customs, which is required for all travel around Tanzania.

You must have a Transire for each port and you will need to check in at the customs office at each port you visit to obtain one. For instance, you need a transire for Dar es Salaam and you will also need one from Customs in Dar es Salaam to go onward to say Zanzibar.  As soon as you get to Zanzibar you will need to check in with Customs there and give them your transire from Dar es Salaam and they will then issue a new transire for your next port destination, say Pemba.

I recommend taking a photo and keeping a copy of these Transire documents, just in case you are ever asked for them by officials outside of customs ports.  We were expected to hand it over in Tanga and then when we left they expected another copy (because they could not find our original – which we had already given them).

Be aware that there should be no fee to obtain or hand in a transire document, but some cruisers have been asked for cash payments.

Fines apply if you do not comply / have a transire.  I cannot find any written evidence of this, but we have been warned by other cruisers.

Although I have tried many times to clarify the rules and fees pertaining to private cruising vessels with the Tanzania Port Authority (TPA), I have never received a reply and I don’t believe that there is any formal process or fee structure, so expect to be handled as per a commercial ship.

Dar es Salaam Yacht Club:

In our experience, the local yacht club was not particularly welcoming to foreign cruisers. I suspect they mainly cater to local sailors who are yacht club members and not to foreign cruisers – which is a real shame.

We made many attempts to message and email this yacht club to inquire about their membership and facilities and were ignored, receiving absolutely no response.  So, we phoned upon our arrival into Dar es Salaam where responses to our questions were unfriendly and vague, giving us the impression that they would rather not accommodate us.

While the facilities are apparently quite nice, the cost of temporary membership for the week was over $200 AUD for our family of four, which is quite expensive and being that we did not feel particularly welcome, we decided not to bother.

Apparently, the restaurant, pool, bathrooms, laundry (no dryer) are great and they also run a service to pick you up /drop you off to your vessel to save you the hassle of taking your dinghy to the rough shoreline.

The yacht club advised us that in future they will try and improve their welcoming of international yachts, but this remains to be seen and it is such a shame because it would have been nice to stop and recoup here after our hellish crossing.

Many fellow sailors also had this experience here, even some who had been lifetime members of the club were now being turned away.

We welcome any updates to this post if you have a different and more positive experience.

The Slipway:

We chose to utilise the Slipway, just to the Southwest of the Yacht Club.  We dropped anchor in 6m on a flat muddy bottom with good holding, directly in front of the Slipway.

There is a hut where a local man named Roy runs a transfer service transporting you to and from your boat for a minimal fee of 10,000 TZS/day (approx. $4 USD). You can reach Roy on VHF Channel 73 and the service runs until 7pm.  Roy can also arrange a laundry service if required.

The slipway precinct has many restaurants and cafes. There are public bathrooms (with showers) near the staircase to the parking lot and there is an ATM at the front of the Slipway Hotel.

Transport:

There are plenty of taxis and Bajaji’s (like a tuk-tuk) just outside the gate from the slipway, but make sure you negotiate your price because some of them can be expensive.

We ended up using Uber because you can add multiple stops to a ride, and it made it easier for provisioning – plus the fare was usually much better.

Stone Town, Zanzibar

We anchored at Stone Town (just out front of the Tembo Hotel), but when we became closely surrounded by tour boats in the afternoon, we moved anchor to just out front of the Park Hyatt Building on the corner.  It was definitely more rolly at high tide, but we felt there was less chance of getting hit by one of the tour boats.  If you are organised you could probably get in and out in a day, without having to anchor here overnight.

Customs is located in a shed close to the wharf and we dropped off the captain so that he could hand in our Transire document and obtain the ongoing one, which was a smooth and easy process.

There is a Marina located further north which should have good protection from the rolling – Azam Watersports and Marina.

The anchorage in old Stone Town is very rolly, but a great spot if you want to check out the UNESCO heritage buildings, Freddie Mercury Museum and other historical sites.  Be aware that local men are very persistent when offering to take you on a guided tour or charter or to sell their wares.  The local restaurants will watch your dinghy if you eat / drink at their establishment or local men on the foreshore will offer to watch over your dinghy for a minimal fee.

The foreshore and “jump spot” comes alive in the afternoons with many locals running and jumping along the foreshore and into the water.  They will also swim out to and around the anchored vessels, so be very careful when driving your dinghy.

Pange Island, Zanzibar

Pange Island is a large sandbar surrounded by reef which at low tide acts like a break wall providing shelter from the southerlies.  If you anchor just outside of the large yellow channel markers, you should be able to find a good sandy spot. The holding is good.  We were here in 25 knots.  An hour or two either side of high tide it can be pretty lumpy, but otherwise it’s great.

The sand bar becomes inundated with tourists throughout the day, but you will have it almost exclusively to yourself in the early mornings and late afternoons.  A stunning location to watch traditional dhows sail by.  The reef is good to snorkel around, but there are tonnes of sea urchins so be careful where you put your feet.  Lots of pretty anemones and clown fish as well as other smaller reef fish, however there is some coral bleaching evident.

Changuu (Prison) Island, Zanzibar

Anchored in 8 meters on a sandy bottom and good holding – pointing into the wind – it was far comfier here than in Stone Town. The island is a sanctuary for Aldabra tortoises, and fees are as follows:

• National Park fee: 3000 TZS per person.
• Entry ticket to sanctuary / prison: $10-$15 USD per person, depending on if you pay cash or card (and the exchange rate – if you pay by card) – no concessions apply for children.

There is also a restaurant, bar, toilets, museum and gift shop at the Prison Complex.

Other animals on the island include Peafowl and Chevrotains (Mouse-Deer) and there are Baobab Trees on the island also (one near the entry gate where the Tortoises reside).

Expect to pay up to $150 USD per person for a tour booked from Stone Town, so anchoring here and paying entry yourself is a cheaper option.

Tanga, Tanzania

Clearing in:

You will most likely meet the Health Official first as he will come out to your vessel upon arrival – see my notes about the Health Official below.

You can clear in at the Port Office and obtain your visa, or hand in your Transire.

Simply walk through the security gate; turn right and enter the building behind the emergency response vehicles. As you enter the building – the Customs/Transire Office is the first door on left – the Port Health Office is located down the hall to the right (second door on the left) – and the Immigration Office is located directly ahead as you enter the building.

Fees and Charges:*

• Visas: $50 USD (cash) per person
• American Passports Visas: $100 USD (cash) – Note, you will be charged a much higher exchange rate if you pay in TZS.
• Health Official Check (at boat): 50,000 TZS – Note, this is only 10,000 TZS if you have already cleared into Tanzania elsewhere.
• Sanitation Certificate: $25 USD – Note, this is not a requirement in Tanzania for private sailing vessels.
• Yellow Fever Vaccine: $50 USD per person

Health Official:

Be aware that the health official will know about your arrival almost before you do and will turn up at your boat expediently.  We arrived at night, so he was there first thing the next morning, crashing into our boat.  He also had no uniform or ID and climbed aboard without advising us of who he was.

It is important to note that if you have checked in elsewhere in Tanzania (Dar es Salaam for example), you only have to pay 10,000 TZS for the Health Check in Tanga. We were charged 50,000TZS because we were not aware and did not think to question it at the time.

This health official may also ask for a Sanitation Certificate.  This only applies to commercial ships and is not a requirement for private sailing vessels in Tanzania. Be aware that the cost of a sanitation certificate as per the Tanzanian Port Authority costs $25 USD and NOT the $100 USD cash that the health official kept asking for.

You may also be told that you are required to get Yellow Fever immunizations.  This is also not compulsory for Tanzania, yet it is currently a requirement in Kenya.  This will cost $50 USD per person, per immunisation and can be arranged at the immigration/customs/health office at the Port.

*All fees and information above were clarified in person when SV Excelsior met with Tanzanian Port Authority (TPA) officials in Tanga to query costs (June 2024).

Tanga Yacht Club:

The Yacht Club is a welcoming place with a restaurant and bar. Meals and drinks are reasonably priced and it is a great place to congregate with other cruisers and watch the stunning sunsets from the balcony.

There are toilets and showers on site and a laundry service can be arranged. You can anchor in front of the Tanga Yacht Club, but there are associated fees and membership forms to fill out at the club.

Monthly Fees:

• 100,000 TZS per solo sailor
• 200,000 TZS per crewed / family vessels

Moorings:

Moorings are available for an extra fee, should you wish to leave your boat.

Watch Service:

Simon can watch over your vessel for a small fee (which can be negotiated).

Noise:

Ex-Veterans may wish to be forewarned that an air raid siren sounds every weekday at 6:30am and again at 7:00am. There is also a nearby mine site and occasionally they will do a blast.

Wake:

Tugboats enter and exit the channel regularly and at times cause very large wake which may catch you beam on, so make sure everything is stowed before leaving your boat or going to bed each night.

Growth:

There is not a lot of tidal flow through the bay, so growth can be a problem here if you intend to leave your boat for some time.

Public Transport:

The local minibus will take you anywhere on its route and the cost is 500 TZS per person.  You can generally catch one just up the road from the yacht club as you head towards town.  There are also Bajaj (Tuk-Tuks), motorbikes or cars and you can negotiate your fare with the driver.  It is not too far to walk into town to the nearest ATM or Supermarket or even the Port Office though.

Banks:

The best bank (for foreigners) to withdraw money from is the Diamond Trust Bank (DTB) because they have a better exchange rate and lower fees.  However, I would advise you get there early in the day because the ATM does seem to run out of money early.

The CRDB and NMB bank are located near the Central Market which is convenient, but there are many other banks and ATM’s available in Tanga.

Supermarkets and Shops:

Mkwabi Supermarket: Within walking distance from the yacht club and close to the port, Mkwabi Supermarket stocks bread, bread rolls and cakes and often have fresh meat in the deli section such as minced beef.  They also carry a range of general pantry items, homeware items and personal care items.

SD Supermarket: Carries a wide range of grocery items and even stocks household goods, toys and a wide range of alcoholic beverages.  They stock hard-to-get dairy items such as cream, yoghurt, bulk and speciality cheeses.  They also have a freezer section with hard-to-get meats such as pork and bacon.  They also stock a range of fresh salad, vegetables and fruit.  We even found strawberries here!

Pharmacy: There are plenty of Pharmacies in Tanga. We went to Abanoor Pharmacy and they seemed pretty well stocked.

Doctors/Medical Assistance: We did not need to see a doctor, however we were advised by locals that Saifee Hospital is probably the best option should you need a doctor or medical attention.

Optometrist: We had some prescription sunglasses repaired at Noor Optics which was quick and inexpensive. I have also heard you can order glasses here and get them pretty quickly.

Car Hire: LAL Garage offers car hire for 200,000 TZS + 18% VAT per day.

Tanzania Food: If you would like to try some local Tanzanian delicacies, go to Blue Room Café where you can sample Nylon, Bhajia and Kababu.  They also offer lovely fresh juices and chai. The Tanga Yacht Club also have a delicious mshikaki and nylon on their menu.

Markets:

Central Market: The best place to stock up your fresh fruit and vegetable supplies.  There is a great variety of fresh local produce and I always try and buy a few things from a few vendors to share the money around.  You can also find meat, eggs and spices at the central market and some local wares such as baskets, wood carvings, paintings, souvenirs, clothing and jewellery items.

Tangamano Market: This is a great place to pick up new and second-hand clothing and other various items.  Donated clothing is not always appropriate for locals due to the fit or religious beliefs, and it is usually on sale, so you can find some serious bargains if you are willing to take your time to sift through the piles of clothing.  We picked up a few great quality items here.

Safaris:

Many cruisers head off on Safari from Tanga, leaving their boat on a mooring or anchored at the Yacht Club.  Safaris can be shockingly expensive, even for those thinking about a self-drive option.  It’s the park fees that really get you – they can really add up.  Be prepared to pay around $1,000 USD per person, per day, for a safari.

If you book a safari, also be aware that you are expected to tip your guide/driver/cook and the minimum tip accepted per person, per day is $10 USD – so make sure you allow for this cost also.

Please refer to the Tanzania National parks guide relating to tariffs.

All foreign payments are quoted in US Dollars and if you don’t pay in USD you will be charged a higher conversion rate for TZS.

Getting to Arusha (the starting point for most Safari companies or self-drive car hire places) is a  7-8 hour drive from Tanga.

There is a bus service or you can book tickets in town at the bus depot.

Self-Drive Safaris

Or you can take the self-drive option. We hired our vehicle from LAL Garage in Tanga and paid a rate of 200,000TZS per day excluding VAT.  If you pay in USD cash, you may be able to negotiate a better rate.

Tips for Self-Drive

• Only hire a 4×4.  The roads are not great and only 4×4 vehicles are permitted into the game parks. Many roads are dirt, so depending on the time of year you go, there may be water crossings and mud you could potentially get bogged in, but even if they are dry they are treacherous in places.  There are high fees to be rescued from within the parks also.  So, unless you are a confident off-road driver, I would not recommend it.
• Check the car out thoroughly before leaving.  Oil, coolant, radiator hoses, tyres and tyre pressure and pack a tool kit just in case, or ask if one can be provided.
• Ensure you have an International Drivers licence.
• There are many police check points and you will likely be pulled over at some point.  We hired a mining vehicle and were pulled over several times.
• Have a means of navigation and a way to charge your phone so you don’t get lost.
• Be wary of other drivers – particularly the buses.  The bus drivers in Tanzania are a law unto themselves.  Expect to see dangerous overtaking, speeding and not even pulling over to allow passengers to embark or disembark.  Hazard lights come on and passengers run to jump on/off the bus while it is still rolling.
• The roads – are some of the worst roads we have ever driven on.  There are many speed bumps, culverts, corrugations, potholes, table drains, dodgy bridges and dirt roads in Tanzania so be prepared for anything.
• Many game parks have high fees for a car to enter and then you have to pay your national park ticket and other associated fees for each particular park on top of that and this is where the self-drive option can add up.  For example, the current fee to drive a car through the Ngorongoro Crater gate is $295 USD, so it’s not a small fee. The gate is before the lookout so unless you pay that fee you will not even get to see the crater.
• It is also important to note that the use of drones is prohibited in the game parks and throughout Tanzania you need special permission to fly a drone.

Pemba, Tanzania

In short, Pemba is not the most cruiser-friendly sailing destination for International Cruisers.  Let me tell you why from our experience…

The processes and legislation for cruising vessels is NOT clear or available and in some cases, agents will even ask for fees to process your Transire (there are no fees to do this anywhere else in Tanzania).  You guessed it – USD CASH.

Some health and immigration officers will also want to board your vessel and charge you as per an international arrival – even when you have already cleared into Tanzania and are arriving from within the country of Tanzania.

The zones for Marine Parks and Reserves are also NOT clear – I have since done much research to find maps for parks and reserves and confirm pricing – see our first Noonsite report for details – A Cruising Family’s Guide to Parks and Reserves in Tanzania.

Pemba is definitely a stunning cruising ground, there is no question.  So ultimately, I guess you will have to weigh up whether having to deal with the bureaucracy and high associated costs is actually worth it; when you can visit places elsewhere in Tanzania without having to deal with these issues.

Can you check out of Tanzania from Pemba?

The short answer is yes.  But it is not without its difficulties. Friends checked out from Wete to transit to Kilifi (July 2024).  The only hurdle they encountered was the fact that the immigration officer wanted a copy of their manifest (again – a commercial vessel requirement – not private sailing vessel) and they pacified the agent with their crew list.  He demanded that it be set out like theirs and wanted 50,000TZS to facilitate this, but our friends stood their ground and refused, on the basis that no official receipt could be issued.

Wete, Pemba

The bay can get quite shallow at low tide, so check your tide charts and use caution when anchoring.  We recommend going ashore at high tide as traversing the mud flats can get messy.  The customs Office is located in the first building on the left of the boat ramp. Fresh produce market located within the main township and a Fish market is located close to the pier.

Funzi Island, Pemba

Anchored in 8m on a sand/mud bottom with good holding. Mostly uninhabited with the exception of a small fishing camp ashore. The beach is nothing to rave about; mostly mangroves and fruit trees ashore. Nice clear waters to swim.

Ndagoni Ruins, Pemba

Anchored in 8m on a sand bottom with good holding. Some swell can wrap around. White sandy beaches and fishing huts ashore as well as Ndagoni Ruins site. Be aware that you may not be welcome ashore.

Local men rebuilding the ruins were not friendly at all asking us to leave the area even after asking permission to walk the beach, dressing respectfully and speaking our best Swahili.

Ras Mkumbuu, Pemba

Lovely, protected bay, anchored in 8m with plenty of swing room, although we recommend that you have good sat imagery when coming in as there is scattered reef and sand bars to watch out for. Very quiet anchorage with limited boat movements, apart from the odd fishing boat. The local villagers are super friendly, and the kids were excited to walk and talk with us.

Mkoani, Pemba

Anchored in 8m on a sand/mud bottom with good holding. Busiest harbour in Pemba and absolute chaos when the ferries arrive, especially Ikraam (the car ferry).

Warning! If you intend on handing in a Transire here, maybe reconsider. While the Customs agent was polite and professional, the Port Health Official insisted on charging us $30USD CASH for a ‘boat inspection’ and was very rude and insistent about getting the “CASH ONLY” out of us.

The Immigration Officer was also polite and respectful, but insisted that he still conduct visa/passport/health check/vessel inspection regardless of the fact we had already been cleared into Tanzania.

Go to Wete instead, where the process is free (as it should be). Our friends handed over their Transire in Wete and had no issues.  They were also able to check out from Wete to transit to Kenya.

If you still intend on checking in here, all official buildings are at the end of the pier. Customs has a sign above the door and the agent was extremely easy to deal with regarding the Transire. It just seems to be Port Health that make a big issue.

Makloongwe Island

Calm anchorage and friendly local villagers ashore.

Chokocho

Be warned!! Accessing this anchorage is not for the faint hearted or inexperienced. Excellent sat imagery and accurate geo referencing is a must.  Shallow draft vessels only. It would be wise to travel an hour or two before the high tide to ensure a slight rise in water level (should you find yourself stuck upon a shifted sand bank). At the top of the tide we still got down to 2.5 meters under keel in sections (with 1.4m draft). Good sunny weather is definitely a bonus to help see the reef and sand banks. The reward however is breathtaking. Crystal clear water and scenery to die for.

However, expect to pay high Marine Park Conservation Fees if you stay here, as it is in the Marine Park zone.

Local fisherman are very friendly, most sailing close by to say hello or occasionally stopping to tempt you into buying a fresh catch (although certainly not pushy or persistent) usually leaving with a thank you and big smile.

Dropped in 7m at high tide and 3.5m under keel at low (1.4m draft). Sand bar exposed at low tide. The tidal flow absolutely rips through here mid-tide (up to two knots) but is still calm and comfortable.

While the breeze still gets in the chop and swell do not; providing a comfortable and cool anchorage.

Kilwa Kisiwani

We stopped here due to bad weather.  We had not checked into Tanzania again, but we were welcome to anchor until the weather passed.  We were able to stock up on diesel which was very handy.  Local guide Samuel came out to our boat and was able to collect our jerrycans and refill them for us.  He also offers tour services and can make grocery purchases for you.

It is important to note that there are crocodiles and hippos upriver, so it is not wise to swim here.

The oldest Mosque in Tanzania is here and 16th Century Portuguese Fort (sadly we could not go ashore to explore).

Sarah Ovens
SV Excelsior

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Other Noonsite reports from SV Sailing Excelsior:

• Tanzania: Things to Know Before You Go
• Tanzania:  A Cruising Family’s Guide to Marine Parks and Reserves
• Cruising Sri Lanka:  What we Wish We’d Known Beforehand

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About the Authors:

The Ovens Crew are an Australian live-aboard family who began cruising on their sailing catamaran, Excelsior, in 2020.  Starting out on the east coast of Australia, they have since travelled extensively throughout Indonesia (for 12 months) and then onward to Thailand, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Maldives and more recently they have crossed the Indian Ocean to explore the African Continent and its cruising grounds. Find out more about the Ovens family via their:

• You Tube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@sailingexcelsior
• Instagram: instagram.com/theovenscrew
• Facebook: facebook.com/Sailing-Excelsior-108521981424036

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising.

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