Welcome to Kiritimati Island, Kirabati, pronounced Christmas Island.

Kiritimati Island is an atoll virtually due south of Hawaii and made a perfect place for us to stop at between Apia, Samoa and Hilo, Hawaii to help break up an otherwise long trip.

Arrival into Kiritimati was simple and straight forward

We anchored in around 16mtrs of water south east of the commercial pier.  I understand that anchoring in anything less than 10 metres of water is not advisable as it could place you in the surf zone if winds and sea state were to change.  During our stay winds were consistently from the NE and as such surf or the serious lack of it was not evident.

On arrival I notified Marine Radio Christmas Island on CH16.  Within an hour we had four officials waiting for us to collect them from the commercial pier.  Immigration, Customs, Police and Quarantine all came aboard.  All were charming and other than a few very basic forms to complete the process was simple, unrushed and the easiest so far by a country mile.

There is no real telephone system here in Kiritimati, so most use VHF radio to communicate.

The commercial pier is not in good shape, although that being said however, they do have a floating platform that tenders can tie to which is great and a big help.  The real issue is that once the tender is tied up, one must face the stairs of death which lead to the upper level of the pier.  Scary, horrifying and if you have a fear of heights these stairs will certainly test you.

Fuel

For those wishing to refuel here in Kiritimati Island, KOIL in London (the main town) are the people to speak to. They will arrange a delivery truck and time with you to dock your vessel at the pier and other than KOIL only taking payment in Australian dollars or an Australian Cheque (no visa/amex/master-card) the process was simple.  There is a $60 fee to use the wharf for bunkering.

I did, before arriving, speak to Mr Teauoki Tonako from KOIL Kiritimati Island, to ensure there would be no issues and he assured me all would be fine.  His email address is following: teetonako@gmail.com. I also copied in his boss on all emails who was based in Tarawa and who was absolutely charming and helped no end.  His contact details are below.

Tekaai Mikaere
Managing Director
Shipping Agencies of Kiribati
PO Box 402
Karaobwerena street
Betio Tarawa
Rep of Kiribati
Ph (686) 26472
Cell (686) 99902
tekaai.mikaer@gmail.com

Note on Transport

There are no taxi’s in Kiritimati so this does need some careful planning.  When we first arrived in Kiritimati and went ashore we waited for the local bus to take us into town for about 45 minutes.  This bus never came, so in frustration I called Marine Radio on CH16 via our handheld radio and asked them to arrange a car to collect us (I had to do something!).  Amazingly they did help and some nice chap came out to drive us into town (London) and I might add, for free.

There are no car rental companies and renting a car is a private matter between parties.  As we didn’t have a clue what to do, we went to the local police station and asked for help. They were amazing and went out of their way to assist.  Within the hour we had a car ($60 per day) and were on our way.

Clearing Out

Clearance from Kiritimati without a car would be a real problem, as the distance from the two offices one must visit (i.e. customs and immigration) and the commercial pier is too far to walk. Thankfully we had a car so were able to drive into town, visit customs first then immigration (offices are next to each other) to obtain clearance.  We then returned the car and had the owners of the car drive us back to the pier. Job done!

Dont forget before clearing Customs to pay your port dues – $50 per month – and $60 to use the wharf for bunkering (if you did so) – payable at the KPA office (ports office) located at the end of the wharf.

Services ashore

There is one restaurant in town called “The Fish About Restaurant” in the Village Hotel.  All looks a little odd on the outside, but once inside and seated around the back, the view to the lagoon is breathtaking and the food is not bad at all.

Other than fisherman coming to Kiritimati to catch and release the Bonefish there is no tourism here at all. The manager of the Village hotel told me basically all their guests were fisherman here for the Bonefish.  If you are into fishing, which alas I am not, then this place would be a paradise beyond compare as the seas are alive with fish of all varieties.

Internet is available via KPA internet services who have an office at the end of the pier opposite the security gate.  $1 per hour, unlimited data but before you get too excited it is pretty slow.

Conclusions

Kiritimati is a place of very real beauty.  The people are truly genuine and very friendly. It is a place of abundant wildlife and a place that time has forgot. If you are after first class hotels, a choice of restaurants and cafes or anything other than the most basic of shopping, then this place is not for you. We are glad we came but if the truth be told we like a little more comforts of the modern world and as such pushed off as early as the weather allowed.

Safe travels,
James of SY Pendana
www.pendanablog.com

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