Kenya – Check in Procedures

First, you need to apply for your e-visa (at least three days prior to arrival).  We paid $35 USD each for a 90-day visa and had our e-visa back within 24 hours.

• E-Visa to Kenya Registration

Clearing In:

Recommended check in locations:  Shimoni or Kilifi. 

*It is not advisable to check into Mombasa as there have been reports of extortion and corruption in this port. Lamu does not get many people attempting to clear in and as a result this has been problematical on occasion.

Transire and Interzone movement

East Africa require that all vessels moving between east African countries or between different coastal counties obtain a Transire document to move between the ports. This is issued by the Kenya revenue authority, Customs.

If checking into Kilifi we highly recommend that you contact Peter at Kilifi Boatyard.  He can arrange for Health Officials and Customs to inspect your boat.   The fee for this is 1,500 KES (Kenyan Shillings)  and the Transire fee is 4,000 KES.

Contact:   Peter Bateman:
WhatsApp +254 722 442334. Email: kilifiboats@gmail.com

Unfortunately, the Immigration office is not in Kilifi, it is in Malindi, so you will need to arrange transport.  We paid 8,000 KES and shared the trip between a few boats, but you may be able to get a Bajaj or motorbike cheaper.

*Plans are happening to try and get the immigration office moved to Kilifi in future.

Clearing Out

You will need to make the trip to Malindi Immigration office once more to clear out.  It is important to note that you must have your transire stamped by customs (in Kilifi) before you can clear out at immigration (Malindi). The Transire fee is 4,000 KES.

You will require Crew List, Transire and Passports to clear out.

Only the Captain needs to check in and out at immigration which is convenient.

Kilifi

If checking into Kilifi, we would recommend getting in touch with Peter Bateman of Kilifi Boat Yard – WhatsApp: +254 722 442334

He can arrange for Customs/Health to come out to your vessel upon arrival into Kilifi.  He can also arrange for your transport to Immigration which is located in Malindi.

*Plans are happening to try and get the immigration office moved to Kilifi in future.

The Bridge

For vessels that have an air draft of less than 18 meters, you should be able to get under the power lines and bridge in Kilifi to anchor or moor down nearer to the boat yard.

For vessels that have larger masts, we recommend you anchor near the Mnarani Resort (3 degree Sailing School). This is where we anchored for one month and the holding was good.

Safety

If you are anchored outside of the bridge and intend on leaving your boat for a period of time, we recommend hiring the services of the young men at the 3-degree sailing school to sleep onboard (in your cockpit) for security.  They will accept a small payment of 1,000 KES per night to act as security for your boat.

Safari Com – M-Pesa Mobile Payment Service

M-Pesa is an excellent payment service used throughout Kenya which you can set up at Safari-com when you purchase a mobile sim card.

Money can be transferred into your M-Pesa account via an app called Remitly (without fees).  We transferred money from our Wise card to Remitly and into M-Pesa with absolutely no fees.

Bajaj drivers, taxis, restaurants, doctors, stalls, just about everyone accepts M-Pesa which makes life easy not having to withdraw wads of cash at ATMs or carry it around.

Provisioning

You can leave your dinghy at The Boatyard and get the free ferry boat to run you back and forth.

Boatyard Dinghy Service: +254 769 964943

Navias is a well-stocked supermarket and is in walking distance from the ferry dock.

The Happy Lamb Butcher accept orders for collection and has prime cuts of Beef, Pork, Lamb, Mutton, Chicken, Turkey and Sausages.  They are also within walking distance from Navias.

WhatsApp: +254 742 551173

Medical

Aga Khan Medical Centre is on the opposite side of the river to Mnarani Beach Club.  You will be given a ticket from the security officer at the gate which will be called by reception staff.  You will then pay for your appointment which is 900 KES and be seated to await triage and then see the doctor on duty.  Premises were clean and staff were professional.

There is also an on-site pharmacy ultrasound and x-ray. If you need an MRI, you will need to travel to Mombasa or Nairobi.

Kilifi Boatyard

Peter, Estelle and the team at Kilifi Boatyard are very welcoming to International Cruisers.  We received the warmest welcome of anywhere we travelled in East Africa here.  The Boatyard offer many services which I will list below:

Haul out facilities:

The Boat Yard offer a Trailer haul out (for vessels up to 42 foot), hard stand, pressure washing and trade services. These include most normal boatyard services, Welding, Laminating, Painting, Carpentry, Sail repair, Engine Diesel and Petrol etc. They are very ‘Solution” oriented.

Chandlery:

There is a small on-site chandlery with various boat supplies and parts.  If they don’t have what you need just ask and I am sure someone can point you in the right direction or order it in.

Parcels:

You can order parts to the boat yard to collect.  Amazon is usually a good option.  Aramex and DHL are the preferred couriers but please discuss with Peter the correct procedure.  Avoid FedEx at all costs.

Restaurant and Bar:

The Boat Yard have an onsite restaurant and bar where the food is delicious and reasonably priced.    The Wednesday Barbeque is a great community event with a tasty menu on offer, but be sure to put your order in.  On Saturday’s free oysters are available at 12:00 noon (first in best dressed).

Fresh Produce:

Joseph sets up a stall at The Boat Yard with fresh fruit and vegetables for sale on Saturdays also which is very convenient. Orders can be placed with Joseph in advance, or you can just select from the available produce on the day.

Joseph Wachira – WhatsApp: +254  713 443 606

Sunset Dhow Trips:

The Boat Yard can arrange for a sunset sail on a traditional dhow through the Kilifi Creek mangroves.  It is a unique experience and relatively inexpensive.

Or you can book a luxury package on the iconic Mekatilili Dhow.

Game fishing:

Fancy a spot of game fishing?  Well Hamilton is your man.  Local Kilifi boy and avid angler.  Hamilton Allison – WhatsApp: +254 746 435 744

Things to See and Do Around Kilifi

Blue House Bakery:

Katy from the Blue House Bakery has bake sales at times (check with the Boat Yard about any upcoming sales because trust me – you don’t want to miss out on these tasty treats). You may also be able to put an order in, but it may be best to inquire with the Boat Yard.

Salty’s on the Beach:

Take a scooter ride or Bajaj out to Salty’s Kitesurf Village.  It’s a cool place to hang out for the day and go kitesurfing or to just enjoy some lunch or take a swim in the cool aqua waters of this stunning beach. Kite surfing lessons and gear hire is also available.

Salty’s On the Creek:

Just down the creek from the boat yard you will find Salty’s Floating Restaurant.  Reservations are recommended for this trendy local spot where you can enjoy tapas style food such as sushi and cocktails at sunset. (Beware that it is more on the pricey side)

The Plantation:

Take a scooter ride or Bajaj out through the sisal plantations and farmland where you will find “The Food Movement” a sweet little restaurant and bar built among the shade of a large strangler fig. Food is fresh and tasty and there is a lovely grocery store on site that sells locally sourced products and produce. There is a museum and a few gift shops scattered about within walking distance for you to check out also.

Fayaz Bakery:

This place does a mean Swahili Prawn Curry.  There is a Crispy Kuku (chicken) store onsite as well as a juice bar, coffee shop and bakery.

Further Afield

There are many great beaches and resorts to visit and if you are into kitesurfing, sailing or windsurfing the Kenyan coast will not disappoint.

If you are looking to go on a safari or maybe just a day trip to nearby Mombasa – here’s a few things we got up to:

Mombasa

Nguuni Nature Reserve

Located just outside of Mombasa is this nature reserve where you can walk among Giraffe.  Eland, Oryx, Ostrich, Leopard Tortoises and other wildlife can also be found within the reserve.  You can walk or for an extra fee take a mini safari tour vehicle with a guide (just contact them to make a reservation first).

The reserve supports a lot of community projects as well as educational and health services in the region and the work they have done to reclaim and restore this once desolate quarry is quite remarkable.

• Nguuni Nature Reserve
• The Baobab Trust

Haller Park

This is a zoo (owned by the same company) in Mombasa, and they offer giraffe feeding.  *We only went to Nguuni so cannot comment on this attraction.

Beaches

There are some lovely beaches to visit in Mombasa where you can chill at a beach bar or take a sunset camel ride.

Train Ride from Mombasa to Nairobi

The Madaraka Express Train from Mombasa crosses through many Safari Parks and you can see herds of Elephants and other African wildlife right from the window of your carriage.  The train stops at Voi Station which is where you can also arrange a Safari tour into Tsavo National Park.

Malindi

If you are going to Immigration in Malindi anyway, make a day of it and visit some of the sites or try some of the local cuisine.  There is a large Italian population here and you can enjoy some lovely authentic Italian cuisine.  The gelato is especially good.

Watamu

Midda Creek

We took a sunset sail out to Sita Sunset Paradise Restaurant where we sampled crab and crocodile samosa and learnt about the mangrove restoration and conservation project supported in this local community.

Gedi Ruins

Visit the ancient Swahili Archaeological ruins within a Arabuko-Sokoke Forest. The site is also home to old world Sykes Monkeys who will climb upon your shoulder if you offer them some fruit.

Sarah Ovens
SV Excelsior

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About the Authors:

The Ovens Crew are an Australian live-aboard family who began cruising on their sailing catamaran, Excelsior, in 2020.  Starting out on the east coast of Australia, they have since travelled extensively throughout Indonesia (for 12 months) and then onward to Thailand, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Maldives and more recently they have crossed the Indian Ocean to explore the African Continent and its cruising grounds. Find out more about the Ovens family via their:

• You Tube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@sailingexcelsior
• Instagram: instagram.com/theovenscrew
• Facebook: facebook.com/Sailing-Excelsior-108521981424036

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Other Noonsite reports from SV Sailing Excelsior:

• Kenya:  A Cruiser’s Guide to Marine Parks and Reserves
• Tanzania:  Busy Ports and Stunning Anchorages
• Tanzania: Things to Know Before You Go
• Tanzania:  A Cruising Family’s Guide to Marine Parks and Reserves
• Cruising Sri Lanka:  What we Wish We’d Known Beforehand

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Related Links:

• E-Visa to Kenya Registration
• Mekatilili Dhow.
• Salty’s Kitesurf Village.
• Salty’s Floating Restaurant.
• Nguuni Nature Reserve
• The Baobab Trust
• Madaraka Express Train
• Sita Sunset Paradise Restaurant
• Swahili Archaeological ruins

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