The buoyed channel is excellent and well lit as this is the main commercial port for French Guiana; Anchor past the commercial port in very soft mud – give the anchor plenty of time to sink in. Expect mosquitoes from 30 minutes before sundown.

The pontoons are generally full of long-term French boats with many of the owners working here. The Gendarmes no longer visit your boat. To check in go ashore and walk on the paved road turning right at every opportunity. You will arrive at the dock gates after 2 km, turn right again and after 200 metres there is a blue and white building on your right; the office of the Dourane is on the first floor and Henry is the most helpful immigration official I have ever met.

You will have passed a chandlery just before the dock gates; it has a large Yamaha sign on it. If you have a hire car there is another on the way into Kourou – on your left with lots of small boats outside it.

Water from the pontoons (free), fuel by jerry can – you will need a car. Virtually no backup but try Yamaha.

Taxis and buses do not exist. Hitching is the name of the game but as the land is very flat a bicycle is good. This is virtually an extension of France and so shopping is good especially for cheese and wine. For real wine, bargains check out Ecomax at Remire.

Anthony Swanston

SV Wild Fox