Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

After a quick downwind run from Cape Town, South Africa, we arrived in Walvis Bay, Namibia.

Walvis Bay is considered the beginning of the Skeleton Coast of Namibia — where the desert meets the sea. The Namib desert is one of the driest deserts in the world, getting virtually no rainfall in most years. In 2024 the rainfall total was 3mm!

Despite this dryness the desert is full of life, due to an interesting phenomenon that impacts sailors known as the Benguela current, which runs from Antarctica along the west coast of Africa, coming near shore at Walvis Bay. With a water temperature of 14.5C, this current keeps Walvis Bay and areas nearby quite cool, while further inland it is extremely hot.

Surrounding the bay, cold water generates a damp fog which settles over the area every morning. Water from the fog condenses on any plants it touches making a heavy dew, which is what gives the animals in the desert the moisture needed for survival. As the desert heats up each day, it generates thermal heating and the cool sea breeze rushes in from the coast generating similar weather patterns each day like clockwork. This system creates strong winds every afternoon and evening, yet by morning it is flat calm and foggy.

Walvis Bay

Our stay in Walvis Bay was at the concrete floating jetty for the Walvis Bay Yacht Club. Be sure to get a slip in the inside of the jetty as strong afternoon winds can damage boats tied to the outside. There is potable water available on the jetty, but no electricity.

We met with the secretary for the Yacht Club who took us to Customs and Immigration for check in. We did not know it at the time, but this quick process would cost us $500 Namibian per adult (approx. USD$26.00). While we were there, another cruiser would do the check out themselves for free. If you wish to do check in/out yourself, it’s best to rent a car and then drive to the Customs and Immigration offices. Immigration is located in the blue/yellow building on the west corner of Railway Street and Rikumbi Kandanga Road. Customs is located in the guard shack at the entrance to the port on Namport Road/third street east.  Go in the last door.

A Safe(r) and Friendly country

We found Namibia to be much safer than other recent countries and the people quite friendly, however our impression was that everyone was out to try to make as much money as possible from every cruiser. We soon learned to ensure that we asked for pricing for everything upfront.

For example, the Yacht Club recommended a driver to take us to a location 10km away. The price quoted: $120 USD. That was a quick “No” from us. Other cruisers utilized the laundry service recommended by the YC and the price on the return of the laundry was $70USD. Even the YC rates, at $430 Namibian dollars per night, were expensive for what was provided — a jetty to tie to and showers that are a 20 minute walk away. The WiFi was non-operational and the washing machine (no dryer) only worked half the time.

All-in-all we were quite disappointed with the YC and the pricing for what was provided. Additionally, for as safe as we felt staying at the jetty, we had someone board the boat one night and steal three pairs of shoes. This was the first theft we have had on this worldwide trip. As always, make sure everything is locked up — even shoes!

Magical and Beautiful Desert Landscapes

All that being said, the areas around Walvis Bay are magical and beautiful. Desert landscapes and plenty of wildlife will be cherished in our memories for years to come.

We went to Sossusvlei, which is approximately five hours drive on a rough road from Walvis Bay. This is the most popular park in Namibia and one could quickly see why. Red sand dunes the size of small mountains towered over a flat, dry river valley. Vistas – the likes of which we had never seen – were everywhere and we would recommend other cruisers take the time to visit. It’s best to get accommodation for a night or two in the area, as it is too far to do in one day.

We also did a quad tour with a local company. Quad tours are normally not our thing, but this was recommended to us by other cruisers and what an amazing adventure it was. The tour took us through areas of ancient human history — before the times of the sand dunes. The ability to walk (literally) in the footprints from people 2400 years ago helps one feel a connection to the past, when the area was a lush tropical delta, and not the sand dunes of today. There are many companies offering quad tours in the desert, but only one who can take you into the national park and show you ancient village sites. This is the one you want to go with.

We also took an easy day trip out to a place called Moon Landscape. It’s an area of considerable seismic upheaval and erosion in the desert making for rock spires and hoodoos. A quick day was all we needed to feel like we had been fully exposed to the area.

We had intended to stay for New Year, but felt we had seen and done enough in Namibia. It was time to get going. Next stop, Saint Helena!

Brent Crack and Mary Bevan
SV Knot Safety